50 Best Restaurants

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Hana Jung, James Kim and Jonathan Timmes

Restaurant Vero
5723 Lee Highway, Arlington; 703-538-4600; www.restaurantvero.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, dinner daily and Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 7.9   AMBIANCE: 7.9   SERVICE: 7.4

Joy (co-owner/general manager) and Jay (executive chef) Reinhardt have successfully spun their flagship restaurant off into a cottage industry focused on good food (Vero/Arlington Catering Co.), family (the forthcoming Tap & Vine) and free-flowing varietals (Grape Juice Wine Shop).

Vero remains a steady draw among locals who appreciate thoughtfully orchestrated cuisine and quiet conversations (lights are kept low, tables fan out for privacy).

The menu travels from familiar bar fare—one pair of awestruck locals emphatically declared, “your calamari is the best in Arlington by a country mile” (think sauteed and herb-dusted specimens versus breaded and deep-fried rings)—to a weekly, five-course tasting menu offered for just shy of $60.

A yeasty homemade tart sprinkled with cured ham bits, caramelized onions and assorted garden vegetables is thin-crust pizza by any other name (though the dough lacks the direct-fired char). Seared corvina delivers a spicy sting, while a refreshing ratatouille smacks of lemon and sweated tomatoes. Elsewhere, slow-roasted pork deposited atop poblano-spiked polenta would make Sergio Leone proud (Italo-American elements, Southwestern fervor).

Highs: gleaning beer-pairing tips from bartender Joy
Lows: dull pound cake
Share: rustic tart
Savor: lusty grilled rib eye

Hooked
20789 Great Falls Plaza, Sterling; 703-421-0404; www.hookedonseafood.com
Open for weekend lunch, dinner daily, and late-night dining Friday and Saturday.
$$$ FOOD: 7.3   AMBIANCE: 6.2   SERVICE: 6.3

Anyone who believes the words “seafood” and “Sterling” have no business being uttered together has clearly never been to Hooked—a funkified fish shop with fresh sushi to boot.

The one-time carryout counter has been replaced by a pint-sized bar, while all the available floor space has been claimed by sleek black tables surrounded by trippy blue chairs (very cosmic bowling).

Co-owner/executive chef Richard Beckel oversees the cooked seafood selections while sushi veteran Yoshi Katsuyama handles the raw fish side of the dining equation.

Aesthetically pleasing sushi that proved to be just as appetizing include the two-tone pacific roll (red and white tuna, tempura crispies, spicy mayo) and the Las Vegas roll (crab, lobster and caviar). Bulbous crab cakes are all jumbo lump, all the time (never any filler). Miso sea bass is suffused with caramelized flesh.

Highs: watching Yoshi Katsuyama create
Lows: tight quarters
Share: oversized Okinawan beers
Savor: miso sea bass

Jaleo
2250-A Crystal Drive, Arlington; 703-413-8181; www.jaleo.com
Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday, weekend brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8.2   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.6

Should the tapas trend dissipate tomorrow, I’m confident Jaleo will defiantly remain.

Because although it’s not el Bulli fancy, restaurateur José Andrés certainly knows how to entertain with his native foods.

Andrés’ Crystal City haunt is all high ceilings and sweeping murals (flamenco performers and romantic matadors forever dance above the half-moon-shaped bar). Patrons range from flip-flop-wearing tourists to lanyard-toting business types who come to wash away work memories over fruity drinks and exotic snacks.

A server core of mostly Spanish expats is as genuinely friendly as they are fiercely patriotic, dispensing helpful insights about favorite dishes from their youth and regional cooking styles to anyone who asks.

Bronzed trout is carefully parted, swabbed with a light pesto then expertly cinched together with a paper-thin slice of Serrano ham (que rico). Sublimely grilled chicken interwoven with wild mushrooms encircles pureed spinach and mixed herbs (huge dish, big flavors).

Seafood paella reveals saffron-laced rice (saturated, yet firm grains) studded with shellfish (giant crawfish, cherrystone clams, mussels, shrimp) and escorted by a terrific garlic aioli.

Highs: sparkling sangria
Lows: sudden Monday closing
Share: pulpo a la Gallega
Savor: authentic paellas

2941
2941 Fairview Park Drive, Falls Church; 703-270-1500; www.2941.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner daily.
$$$$ FOOD: 9.2   AMBIANCE: 8.9   SERVICE: 9.3

If you are keeping score, the arrival of executive chef Bertrand Chemel has ushered in 2941 3.0 (or maybe 2.5 if you count the fly-by-night tenure of interim toque Scott Bryan).

The revolving-door kitchen has done little to stymie interest in the landmark property. A quick glance around the dining room confirms that this is the spot up-and-comers bring parents/friends/significant others to prove that they’ve arrived—though the smattering of dressed-up couples and backslapping revelers who often line the swanky bar would suggest some people see nothing wrong with some self-spoiling.

Chemel is only too happy to oblige, plying guests with rare indulgences (Wagyu ribs, sustainable fish) the world over.

Fresh Kumamoto oysters are decorated with fluke tartare, zesty cantaloupe and spicy shiso (terrific synergy). Tea-smoked duck soars sky high with sweet-and-sour cherries and almond-studded barley risotto. Steamed sea bass virtually dissolves beneath leek-broccoli-serrano ham au jus (fabulous).

Highs: Wagyu short ribs
Lows: myriad tasting menus, limited time
Share: chocolate quartet
Savor: Mishima beef and yellowfin tuna duo

Chef’s Table:
Seats: 2-8
Menu: 6 courses
Scene: backlit, marble table opposite “the pass”
Cost: $150 pp ($100 pp for wine pairings)
Reserve: As early as possible

Duangrat’s
5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-5775; www.duangrats.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 6.8   AMBIANCE: 7.2   SERVICE: 6.8

A standard bearer for authentic Thai cooking in the minds of many, Duangrat’s remains vital not for its traditionalism but rather its innovation.

The handsomely appointed main dining combines festive murals and artifact-filled display cases into a culturally provocative design scheme. Tunic-clad gents and flowery-skirted waitresses help complete the Southeast-Asian illusion.

Though well versed in Americanized Thai (pad thai, protein-stuffed chicken wings), Duangrat’s continues to stir interest in their cooking by championing colorful updates.

Lychee dumplings reveal sweet fruit enveloping minced pork and nuts. Crunchy plantains give way to a terrifically sweet center. Garlic-crusted cod flirts with spicy mango salad (enticing). Deep-fried pork is swabbed with a ground chili paste that delivers creeper heat.

Highs: custom-tailored heat
Lows: dull salmon purse
Share: plantain tempura
Savor: mango bay cod

Willow
4301 Fairfax Drive, Ballston; 703-465-8800; www.willowva.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday.
$$$ FOOD: 8.4   AMBIANCE: 8.6   SERVICE: 8.5

The antithesis of D.C.’s power dining spots, Willow seems more comfortable being the type of place where ties are loosened and PDAs gladly cradled in anticipation of a down-to-earth meal.

Co-owners Kate Jansen (pastry chef) and Tracy O’Grady (executive chef) lead by example at their homey Arlington restaurant, stepping out of the kitchen as needed to answer phones, refill water glasses or hand-deliver surprise sweets to birthday celebrants.

Not that there’s any reason to rush right into dessert.

One smoky tomato-and-red pepper potion provides comfort by the spoonful. Chorizo-stuffed olives pack a nifty briny-swine punch. Grilled gouda sandwiches and deviled eggs dial back the healthfulness of a tarragon-shallot-spritzed salad, but who’s counting (calories, that is)?

Lobes of foie gras-stuffed chicken are all airy richness and tender meat—until you happen upon the Savoy cabbage and zucchini salad (strong stuff). The signature sticky toffee pudding cake—“our most popular dessert of all time,” according to one server—summons a spice- and nut-filled pleaser topped with rotating chillers (caramel-crusted vanilla was a favorite).

Highs: stiff drinks, live jazz
Lows: dull haricots vert alongside sandwiches
Share: Pomodoro flatbread
Savor: Sticky toffee pudding cake

Villa Mozart
4009 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; 703-691-4747; www.villamozartrestaurant.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, Monday through Saturday.
$$$ FOOD: 8.0   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.5

Chef/owner Andrea Pace may be in a different zip code, but his heart remains firmly planted in Northern Italy.

The former Fiore di Luna toque jumped to Fairfax City earlier this year to open his first privately owned venture, bringing along a handful of old favorites and some fresh perspective.

The elegant yet understated establishment greets guests with muted cream walls, shimmering musical clefs and an artful arrangement of vintage corkscrews. Leather-wrapped chairs and vest- and tie-clad servers project a sense of sophistication, even though locals remain comfortable waltzing in sans too much finery (casual attire seems to be the norm).

Balsamic-splashed watermelon straddles cured octopus while a diced orange-pineapple medley mounts succulent scallops (bold pairings). Sauteed sausage anchors a salad of arugula, onions, chickpeas and sun-dried tomatoes. Homemade pappardelle glisten with nutty gorgonzola sauce (broad noodles, thinned sauce). Elsewhere, curls of freshly shaved parmesan inject some much-needed saltiness into a bowl of pancetta penne swamped by a too-sweet-by-a-hair roasted-tomato sauce.

Highs: prix-fixe lunch deals
Lows: battling an uncooperative semifreddo
Share: seafood carpaccio
Savor: pork chop-topped risotto

Foundation
9112 Center St., Manassas; 703-368-3427; www.foundationmanassas.com
Open for dinner, Thursday through Sunday, Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.6   AMBIANCE: 8.5   SERVICE: 8.4

Several days after goading a friend into meeting me at Foundation, my dinner companion couldn’t help but keep raving about the overall experience.

“Thanks for the invite, dude; that was one amazing meal,” my star-struck associate emailed.

Don’t thank me. Thank executive chef Matthew Wood.

The N’awlins native seems genuinely more interested in pleasing every visitor to his restaurants—Wood also oversees the kitchen at the adjoining Okra’s—than in patenting esoteric food stuffs or reinventing the wheel.

“I’m all about special requests … [and] taking care of the customer,” he said of his personal work ethic, readily admitting that he tends to go overboard on portions and exotic ingredients for the sake of total customer satisfaction.

Saffron-laced lobster ravioli perfectly illustrate his generosity, delivering lobster-packed noodles drizzled in Meyer lemon sauce and surrounded by ample rock shrimp. A fan of moist, delicious duck is blanketed in blackberry chambord (terrific jammy-game interaction). Pear poached in a simple syrup composed of ginger, clove and pink peppercorns and rolled with baked brie yields a remarkably mellow dessert.

Highs: anything with wasabi shoots
Lows: short workweek
Share: eggs Oscar
Savor: pan-seared duck

Chef’s Table
Seats: 1-8
Menu: 5 courses
Scene: slick marble bar overlooking a semi-private kitchen
Cost: $75 pp ($110 pp includes 2-oz. wine pours)
Reserve: 24 hours in advance

Bastille
1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria; 703-519-3776; www.bastillerestaurant.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.1 AMBIANCE: 7.7 SERVICE: 7.1

Contemporary French locks arms with relaxed American at Bastille, a quaint neighborhood bistro commanded by Christophe Poteaux (BOH) and Michelle Poteaux-Garbee (FOH).

Michelle dutifully marshals her floor staff (expedites orders, announces mid-rush changes), keeps watch over the patrons (pouring wine, fielding calls) and does whatever else is needed to keep the business humming smoothly.

Meanwhile, Christophe leads a kitchen crew tasked with turning out lunch, dinner and brunch deals, multi-course tasting menus and myriad daily specials, along with their core carte.

A generous portion of steak and frites reveals flash-seared beef flush with red wine and shallots. A slick of sauteed cucumbers (glassy, sassy gourd) all but steals the show out from under brown butter-bathed sea bass. Lamb chops get a Mediterranean makeover courtesy of spicy harissa oil and zucchini ratatouille (summer freshness by the forkful).

Highs: salmon-pesto tagliatelle
Lows: constant din of the dishwasher
Share: hummingbird cake
Savor: lamb chop with zucchini ratatouille

L’Auberge Chez Francois
332 Springvale Road, Great Falls; 703-759-3800; www.laubergechezfrancois.com
Open for lunch, Sunday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$$$ FOOD: 8.4   AMBIANCE: 8.2   SERVICE: 8.8

Just as Chez Francois founder Francois Haeringer formally passed the torch to son Jacques, so, too, have regulars begun their own transfer of power.

At least, that’s the way it seems from the parade of well-behaved petit messieurs et mademoiselles we’ve noticed enjoying the prix-fixe feasts at this timeless Great Falls retreat.

The continuity in the kitchen remains one of the restaurant’s greatest assets, reassuring old friends—including conservative firebrand Newt Gingrich, who flouted the notoriously stringent dress code (short sleeves, no jacket) whilst enjoying a summer’s eve and the company of wife No. 3 in the gazebo—and newcomers alike that everything they’ve heard/remember about the food remains valid.

And for the most part, it does.

Gorgonzola-encrusted tenderloin partnered with sweet tomato and onion straws synchronizes for a savory power play. A trio of herb-rubbed lamb chops (fragrant crust, succulent center) basks in the glow of a tannic wine reduction and sea salt-flecked green beans. Baked phyllo parts to reveal creamy lobster, cod and crab caught within its flaky grasp (rich, but worth it).

Highs: sage advice from helpful dining captains
Lows: formal attire + summer heat
Share: petite but flavorful frog legs
Savor: veal cheeks cassoulet

Minh’s
2500 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-525-2828; www.minhrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$ FOOD: 7.2   AMBIANCE: 6.6   SERVICE: 6.5

Throughout my many trips to Minh’s, I’ve rarely had trouble convincing first-time guests to try something a little out of the ordinary.

Convincing repeat visitors to deviate from their favorite dishes, on the other hand, has proven next to impossible.
Other than a few cosmetic changes—streamlined menu (still boasts over 100 dishes, but some of the redundant items have been jettisoned), some modern fixtures here and there—very little has changed at Minh’s.

A crunchy rice crepe crackles when you pierce it, revealing a savory mass of roast pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and scallions (add a splash of chili-infused fish sauce for some bonus heat). Tangled shrimp and yam cakes delivered deep-fried sweetness. Stir-fried cubes of filet mignon rumble with peppers, tomatoes and onions, only to meet their match in a brilliant ground pepper-lime sauce. The signature catfish spread summons seafood kebabs thick with turmeric (marigold glow, curried finish), with a palette of robust accompaniments (vermicelli, fresh basil, zesty shrimp paste) at the ready to fashion custom flavor combinations.

Highs: salted plum soda
Lows: having to fish for recommendations
Share: combination crepe
Savor: sizzling catfish

Bazin’s on Church
111 Church St. N.W., Vienna; 703-255-7212; www.bazinsonchurch.com
Open for lunch, Tuesday through Friday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday and Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8   AMBIANCE: 7.7   SERVICE: 7.2

While fishing for suggestions at Bazin’s, a bartender offhandedly shared that many regulars have taken to swapping largish appetizers for traditional entrees.

Sure enough, when I glanced around in search of visual stimulation, a nearby gentleman snatched a plate of herb-crusted lamb “lollipops” from his partner, passed it over and playfully asked, “Look good?”

Chef/owner Patrick Bazin would be wise to add the unexpected cheerleader to the payroll.

One of the cornerstones of Vienna’s Church Street revitalization, Bazin’s has evolved into a neighborhood go-to for local families and food fans from all around. The vibe remains solidly casual (regulars arrive in T-shirts and jeans, the original cork-bound menus have been replaced by foldable paper guides), though the menu continues to flirt with the fanciful.

A signature crab-and-avocado salad melds savory meat, buttery avocado and tangy citrus juice into summer’s last stand. Flatiron steak wants not for savory au jus, gives easily with each knife stroke and delivers plenty of beefy goodness in every bite. Crisp red snapper is buoyed by a bacon-studded clam sauce.

Highs: lamb lollipops
Lows: lack of wine guidance
Share: Navajo fry bread
Savor: crab-avocado salad

 

The Liberty Tavern
3195 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-465-9360; www.thelibertytavern.com
Open for lunch, Wednesday through Saturday, dinner and late-night dining daily, Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 8.5   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.6

Liberty Tavern executive chef Liam LaCivita executes pizzas and bar snacks with the same aplomb that guides his signature entrees, which makes for happy eating at any spot/hour within Clarendon’s current nightlife magnet.

The once-dormant corner lot has rocketed to an eating/drinking Mecca seemingly overnight, due largely to LaCivita’s well-sourced cuisine and vibrant bar scene. But unlike at some other boozy breeding grounds, the dolled-up beauties and on-the-prowl gents here seem happy to remain completely civil (no pushing or shoving required to reach the bar).

Many of the main dishes, however, are worth fighting for.

A show-stopping grilled octopus and shrimp plate summons fire-kissed seafood sporting a spice-rubbed veneer, lain to rest on a bed of watercress and mint (outstanding). Brined chicken is baked to a coppery finish (crackling skin, juicy white meat) while onion gravy and sauteed escarole battle it out for best supporting actor (both winners in my book). Lemony skate swims in a sea of crushed hazelnut-lemon-brown butter sauce, all anchored by a remarkable roasted potatoes, beets and smoked bacon hash (bravo).

Highs: scoring sofa seating on a Friday night
Lows: proudly local, but not a single Virginia wine
Share: grilled octopus
Savor: red velvet cake

Ray’s the Steaks
1725 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-7297
Open for dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 7.8   AMBIANCE: 6.3   SERVICE: 6.7

“There’s really no point in getting steak anywhere else,” my guest informs me as he carves into the well-marbled cut that’s just emerged from Ray’s claustrophobia-inducing kitchen.

Owner Michael Landrum inspires such fierce loyalty by continuing the core principles that have made Ray’s the de facto steak destination in many local minds: hand-carved meat, outrageously complementary toppings/complimentary sides and down-to-earth prices.

Add to that the come-as-you-are policy, tasty homemade snacks (spicy peanuts to start, buttery fudge on your way out) and some of the cheeriest servers around—they get the general frustration about the seating policy/lack of reservations, but it’s out of their control—and you’ve got a case for a neighborhood gem that’s nearly impossible to keep under wraps.

Pre-sliced tenderloin arrives smothered in brandy-soaked mushrooms and caramelized onions (dazzling). Luscious strips of hanger steak are all-natural juices and unadulterated might (absolutely mouthwatering). A roast beef-like slab of picahna plays possum until plunged into a scorching salsa verde (much more satisfying than the pabulum served at many Latin-American establishments).

Highs: feasting on chateaubriand
Lows: hour-long waits (even midweek)
Share: Carnegie deli cheesecake
Savor: uber-juicy hanger steak

Tachibana
6715 Lowell Ave., McLean; 703-847-1771
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 8.2   AMBIANCE: 6.5   SERVICE: 6.5

“So, what’s good today?” a loyal patron asks upon positioning himself front and center at Tachibana’s main sushi bar.

Without missing a beat, the sushi chef starts rattling off their freshest features, a seafood roll call populated by seasonal scores like abalone, soft shell crabs, oysters and mackerel.

The dedicated sushi chefs are beyond helpful, fielding questions about their most exotic ingredients (mottled quail eggs, plump, purple octopus) and time-honored techniques with almost infectious enthusiasm.

But their work really speaks for itself.

Raw scallop is gloriously sweet—until you discover the surreptitious dollop of wasabi rubbed into the sushi rice (delectable). Red snapper displays an almost citrusy finish. The signature Monica roll summons broiled eel almost caramelized beneath a soy glaze and encrusted with jazzy tempura flakes (domo).

Highs: omakase at the sushi bar
Lows: bland, bonito-topped tofu
Share: monkfish pate
Savor: red snapper sashimi

Bamian
5634 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-820-7880; www.bamianrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$ FOOD: 7.9   AMBIANCE: 8.1   SERVICE: 7.2

“Why aren’t there more places like this around?” one companion inquires as we eat our way through Bamian’s brief but inviting menu.

Afghan-dining enthusiasts can attest that there certainly are other places in the area whipping up kebabs and yogurt-covered fare. Yet Bamian remains special because they stick to their culinary roots while also worrying about presenting said delicacies in a readily approachable manner.

The ballroom-like main dining room is light years removed from the meager takeout stands most people picture when they think of traditional kebabs. Hideaway booths (frosted glass partitions, mirror-polished hardwoods) and helpful servers help cement that image in the minds of frequent visitors, as does the quality of the cuisine.

Vegetarian turnovers (brimming with ground chickpeas and minced onions) pop after a plunge in mint-basil dipping sauce. Leafy spinach gets stir-fried into a deliciously pine-nutty mash. Meanwhile, grilled lamb (lightly seasoned, immodestly tender) trumps ground sirloin for juiciest kebab.

Highs: introducing friends to Afghan cuisine
Lows: no new kebabs left to try
Share: mantu
Savor: subzi chalau

Hank’s Oyster Bar
1026 King St.Alexandria; 703-739-4265; www.hanksdc.com
Open for lunch, Friday through Sunday, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
$$ FOOD: 7.9   AMBIANCE: 7.3   SERVICE: 7.1

Just to the left of the typically cramped “bar” at chef/owner Jamie Leed’s Virginia-based seafood retreat sits a copy of author Rowan Jacobsen’s valentine to bivalves, “A Geography of Oysters.”

Pretty hefty reading for your average mortal. But probably old hat for a veteran shucker like Leeds.

Her Alexandria outpost remains a popular destination for local seafood lovers, even if Leeds has since turned her attention to debut D.C. gastropub, CommonWealth.

Not that Hank’s requires much hand-holding anymore.

Homemade ceviche bathes fresh fish, shrimp and calamari in a stunning citrus-jalapeno essence (invigorating). A bountiful seafood Cobb spreads chilled shrimp, lemony calamari rings, chopped beets, tomatoes, cucumber and crumbled bacon across chopped greens. Meanwhile, chimichurri-covered steak (beef is two fingers thick; herb sauce is pleasantly zesty) would fit right in at any local steakhouse.

Highs: maple-glazed butternut squash
Lows: finding an open seat on Friday nights
Share: fried shrimp and calamari
Savor: oyster po’boy

Foti’s
219 E. Davis St., Culpeper; 540-829-8400; www.fotisrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner, Thursday through Sunday and Tuesday.
$$$ FOOD: 8.6   AMBIANCE: 8.5   SERVICE: 8.4

Frank and Sue Maragos have helped turn Culpeper into a culinary crossroads, luring guests from across the state (visitors from Stafford, Lake Anna and Winchester were all present one night) to sample Frank’s near-lyrical creations.

Foti’s sticks close to home for many things, tapping neighboring Calhoun’s for ham and local dairies for breathtaking cheeses (including a terrific piedmont tomme). Lobster remains a hard-sought commodity—which means the restaurant’s signature vanilla lobster plate is occasionally AWOL (they do special orders upon request).

Brie smothered in peppers and olives swings from creamy rich to boldly ripe with each bite. Hollowed zucchini houses walnut pesto-bathed ratatouille. Bread pudding swoons from whiskey caramel sauce.

Highs: fresh, exciting Greek wines
Lows: by-request-only lobster and Johnny cakes
Share: pots de creme
Savor: provocative cheese boards

Café  Renaissance
163 Glyndon St., Vienna; 703-938-3311; www.caferenaissance.com
Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, dinner, daily.
$$$ FOOD: 6.7 AMBIANCE: 7.2 SERVICE: 7.3

Don’t bother looking for headline-seeking politicos or paparazzi-plagued celebrities at this Vienna mainstay.

Café Renaissance remains a much more intimate experience—best appreciated by those who prefer reposing amidst floods of familiar sights and smells and receiving meticulous care from staff who revel in getting to know patrons beyond a first-name basis.

Owner Saeed Abtahi seems to know everyone who walks through his front door, precipitating lots of boisterous “hellos” and impromptu reunions as he joins guests at their tables and effortlessly slips right into conversations about old friends and family gossip like a long-lost uncle.

The menu is just as familiar, even if some old favorites seem to have passed on (RIP, sweetbreads).

Smoked salmon blanketed in lush vodka cream prompted one companion to plead with staff for a to-go gallon of sauce. A seasonal gift of venison scaloppini is braced by a ravishing black-peppercorn reduction (spicy pods prevail in almost every bite). Roast monkfish (fluffy, moist) shares the spotlight with cream-splashed scallops and complex cilantro sauce (an onion-pea-ground herb tug-of-war).

Highs: custom pasta dishes
Lows: cloying hazelnut sauces
Share: eggplant ravioli
Savor: VIP treatment

Jamieson Grille
400 Courthouse Square, Alexandria; 703-253-8640; www.westin.com/alexandria
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 7.8   AMBIANCE: 7.8   SERVICE: 7.5

The eyes have it at Jamieson Grille, a boutique eatery where presentation is paramount.

No matter where you look, something at this Westin property begs for attention—from the ice-breaking “My passion is: XX” tags pinned on every employee’s lapel to an overhead light show that floods the main dining room in a rainbow of pastels every few minutes (cute). Over at the bar, specialty drink menus are supplemented by a rotating “cocktails of the month” display featuring staff-selected thirst-quenchers.

Crab cakes summon jumbo lump commingled with sweet corn and minced peppers (doesn’t feel like filler; more like savory backup) and crowned with Old Bay sauce. Lamb chops are dually spiced (a peppery mustard masterpiece) and duly delicious. Slender desserts with big flavors include white chocolate pistachio and espresso bar.

Highs: shooting the breeze at the bar
Lows: middling crab melt
Share: shot-sized dessert sampler
Savor: grilled lamb loin

Iron Bridge Wine Company
29 Main St., Warrenton; 540-349-9339; www.ironbridgewine.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$ FOOD: 7.8   AMBIANCE: 7.7   SERVICE: 7.2

Choice is certainly never an issue at the Warrenton branch of Iron Bridge Wine Company.

Virtually every wine—from vintage Burgundian pinot noirs to local vidal blancs—is available by the glass for below $10. Hunger can be abated with appetizers, small plates, larger plates or any combination thereof ($30, build-your-own, three-course special happens midweek). And guests can kick up their heels at picture-window tables, comfy booths or atop the rooftop deck.

So many alternatives. So few cabs willing to ferry me home from Warrenton at “friend” prices.

The still-evolving restaurant continues to tinker with the wine-and-cheese playbook by rolling out imaginative menu items (fish-of-the-day specials, daily entree deals) designed to challenge people’s perceptions of traditional wine pairings.

Grilled haloumi (properly softened, but still sturdier than baked brie) is smothered in diced onions, olives and mixed peppers (tasty tapenade). Smoked chicken, gruyere and savory apple jam pull ordinary pizza in exciting new directions. Flat iron steak dressed with blue-cheese crumbles partners up with parmesan- and reggiano-crusted fries (a dairy triple dare).

Highs: plucking new finds from the wine stacks
Lows: lifeless cowboy steak
Share: cabrales-stuffed dates
Savor: wagyu burger

Me Jana
2300 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-465-4440; www.me-jana.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 7.8   AMBIANCE: 7.7   SERVICE: 7.2

Let’s call it love at first bite. Or perhaps first dunk would be more accurate.

My maiden voyage to Arlington’s attractive new Lebanese suitor, Me Jana, had been going along swimmingly. But there still hadn’t been any real sparks.

Until the kebabs arrived. The skewers were escorted by house garlic whip—an alluring fusion of olive oil, egg whites and garlic (sour cream-like texture with overt nuttiness).

Now, I was hooked.

A tad ritzier (think semicircular banquettes, tangerine lamp shades and knit metallic placemats) than some Middle-Eastern competitors, Me Jana seems determined to bridge the gap between traditional mezze and modern cuisine. A handsome central main bar splits the restaurant into two long but slender spaces with matching window views.

The kitchen is just as forward thinking.

Fried zucchini fritters combine the finely grated squash with manchego and mint (interesting combo). Grilled meats vary from totally bland (seasoned beef totally fizzles) to almost grand (chicken needs less fire, more smoke). Meanwhile, a Flintstone-sized lamb roast (awash in au jus and wine) arrives accompanied by truffled mashed potatoes (unexpected, but well enjoyed).

Highs: sampling Lebanese wines
Lows: small plates, steep prices
Share: kebabs with garlic whip
Savor: roast lamb shank

Vermilion
1120 King St., Alexandria; 703-684-9669; www.vermilionrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 8.6   AMBIANCE: 8.3   SERVICE: 8.2

Imagination and innovation seem to drive the Vermilion kitchen. Which is why this come-as-you-are dining gem is able to deliver the goods whether kicking back with gourmet pimento dip (a piquant party for one) or turning up the charm with mind-blowing tasting processions.

The totally relaxed atmosphere (comfy sofas invite prolonged lounging; low-key lights keep prying eyes at bay) makes it easy to forget your troubles, if only for a few hours. Bubbly staff keep thing breezy, but never slouch when it comes to proper service (tables are regularly patrolled; dish descriptions and daily specials roll right off the tongue).

Meanwhile, executive chef Anthony Chittum spends all his time spinning seasonal ingredients from local suppliers (Dragon Creek Aqua Farm, Davon Crest Farms) into fanciful new forms.

Anise-spiked chicken presides over a Mediterranean feast of cinnamon-y pancetta and liver kebabs, supplemented by Italian wheat sprinkled with pine nuts and dried cranberries. Barbecue pork loin spits fire atop grilled cornbread (absolutely incendiary swine). Elsewhere, fudge mint chocolate chip-capped brownies flanked by mint gel sends shivers down the spine.

Highs: deeply discounted happy-hour specials
Lows: warbling, wannabe lounge singers
Share: seasonally inspired salads
Savor: Scottish salmon

Lightfoot
11 N. King St., Leesburg; 703-771-2233; www.lightfootrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily, late-night dining, Monday through Saturday, Sunday brunch.
$$$ FOOD: 8.1   AMBIANCE: 8.7   SERVICE: 8.1

As if the reconditioned bank theme wasn’t eye-catching enough, the powers that be at Lightfoot have further upped the design ante with an al fresco patio and custom waterfall that made a big splash with area residents this summer.

The restaurant’s fan base seems to cut across most economic/generational lines, ranging from gussied up girlfriends to relaxed nuclear families interested in sampling chef/owner Ingrid Gustavson’s challenging cuisine.

Gustavson, of course, remains wedded to her dress whites. But her menus appear to be wearing more Asian designs (hoisin-glazed pork chop) alongside retro reinterpretations (cheese plate with brie, homemade blue cheese and port wine-cheddar balls) and evergreen favorites (meatloaf sandwiches, fish and chips).

Bisque tastes of butter and cream and is buttressed by a wealth of pulled jumbo lump crab (island of meat bobs pleasingly amidst the ruddy broth). Shredded duck, crunchy water chestnuts and cheese relocate the filled-tortilla theme from southwest to Far East in a cross-cultural quesadilla. Caramelized onions (very good) and fried oysters (surprisingly blank) dangle from a barbecue-brushed N.Y. strip parked atop cheddar-jalapeno grits (busy but pleasant collaboration).

Highs: Peking-duck quesadilla
Lows: lopsided crab-ham Reuben
Share: frozen peanut-butter torte
Savor: assorted craft-brew drafts

La Bergerie
218 N. Lee St., Alexandria; 703-683-1007; www.labergerie.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
$$$ FOOD: 8.4 AMBIANCE: 8.4 SERVICE: 8.4

During a visit to La Bergerie, one elderly couple made a big production of informing owner Laurent Janowsky that they regard his foie gras as the baseline for comparison for all other goose-liver preparations. And they swore that they were, more often than not, disappointed by the competition’s lackluster efforts.

Talk about pressure.

La Bergerie remains steeped in tradition—the type of place where men gladly wear suit coats and ladies are escorted arm-in-arm by staff.

A boiled-egg trio summons hollowed-out oeufs filled with: custardy egg and smoked salmon, scrambled eggs with minced truffles (lavish) and wild boar atop whipped heavy cream. Venison is painted with vanilla and decorated with foie gras (superb richness). Roast sea bass swims in a braised-oxtail broth (enough meat for a second entree).

Highs: vanillaed venison
Lows: cloying escargot
Share: three-cheese tart
Savor: shinoki-topped sea bass

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(November 2008)