Rise & Dine
Breakfast Spots Worth Waking Up For
By Warren Rojas / Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky
Breakfast is often heralded as the most important meal of the day. Yet so often, our mornings get underway with whatever burnt offering spews forth from the toaster or some paper-wrapped abomination shoved out a drive-thru window.
No more, say we.
It’s time to reclaim the right to a hot, homemade meal prepared with equal parts love and farm-fresh ingredients. Let us rally for weekend bonanzas actually worth counting calories all week for.
So follow us, to where the coffee is always on, the baked goods don’t come from a vending machine and nobody leaves the table hungry.
Daily Dejeuner
Yorkshire
7537 Centreville Rd., Manassas | 703-368-4905
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
Yorkshire’s Hog of a Ham Steak
When one ornery regular complains about runny eggs, the Yorkshire waitress quickly fires back, “the chicken probably drank too much water.” An innocuous inquiry about the availability of fresh cranberry juice is likewise shot down, but not before the silver-tongued server adds, “and we ain’t got no vodka neither.”
Welcome to breakfast as community theater.
Much like the yellowing calendar tacked up above the register—forever frozen on December 1950—breakfast at the Yorkshire feels like a trip back to the era of true hometown diners. Locals pound coffee, smoke and gripe about “the rich people up in Fairfax and Sterling.” Tables double as billboards for local businesses.
And when the waitress assures you that “you get a good-sized portion no matter what you order,” she ain’t lyin’.
A farmer’s special brings a gloriously salty ham steak—a bone-in monolith of cured pork surrounded by a ring of buttery fat—that’s a shade away from qualifying as a diuretic. The breakfast club is a good-looking sandwich stacked with bacon, ham, eggs, lettuce, tomato, mayo and cheese. Meanwhile, the titular Yorkshire omelet folds bacon, sausage, ham, peppers, onions and cheese into fluffy eggs and surrounds it all with hash browned potatoes and cakey, homemade biscuits.
Daily Dejeuner
Payne’s
13846 Lee Hwy., Centreville | 703-830-8935 | www.paynesrestaurant.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast daily; lunch served Monday through Friday, and dinner Friday
Seconds after sitting down, the coffee starts coming. It is strong, piping hot and absolutely will not run out if the waitress has anything to do with it. All around are fellow diners who have come to devour the daily paper, suck down the first Pall Mall of the day and stuff their gullets with gravy-soaked everything.
You’d be smart to join them.
A neighborhood eatery bedecked with faded wood paneling and even older Redskins’ memorabilia, Payne’s remains a refuge for those who refuse to stand in line for designer java or consume anything that is not straight-from-the-griddle fresh. It’s cash-only, so there’s no fumbling for credit cards or personal checks.
But the lumberjack-sized helpings ensure you get your money’s worth.
A short stack goes gonzo with mammoth flapjacks covered in hash browns, scrambled eggs and peppery sausage gravy (a monstrous wake-me-up). The country fried steak and eggs platter brings a solid cut of beef that’s been battered, breaded and drenched in country gravy. A barnyard round-up of pork chops and eggs summons two neatly grilled chops accompanied by more eggs and scattered home fries.
One especially sassy waitress shoots over a knowing wink and a smile as she retires a half-eaten mountain of food, teasing “You weren’t hungry?”
Weekend Workhorses
Palm Court at Westfields
14750 Conference Center Dr., Chantilly | 703-818-3520 | www.westfieldspalmcourt.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Classic Benedict, À LA Palm Court
From the soothing piano music to the free-flowing Cava, brunch at the Palm Court compels you to break free from the daily grind.
While the decorum is all about elegance and class (think uniform-clad dining captains and sterling silver everything), diners appear to be a mix of everyday folk—including extended families, business groups and Red Hat Society ladies—looking to be spoiled for just a few hours.
And spoiled they are.
The awe-inspiring buffet is split between separate showcases of made-to-order creations (omelets, waffles), assorted salads (fresh fennel, ravioli and asparagus) and smoked fish (trout, dill-encrusted gravlox), and lavish desserts (fruit tortes, seasonal cakes).
Ample slices of rosemary rib rye taste even better crowned with a dab of garlicky gravy and homemade horseradish. Chilled duck breast partnered with Asian coleslaw is delicious. Roast chicken gets a boost from a tangy, Southwestern-style salsa. Carb lovers stand agape at the fresh fruit station (figs, apricot compote, orange mascarpone) as they deliberate how best to decorate their waffles.
And though I really shouldn’t, I head back for one more slice of fresh zucchini bread. And maybe a chocolatey black-bottom muffin …
Daily Dejeuner
Elsie’s Magic Skillet
8166 Richmond Hwy., Alexandria. 703.360.0220
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
Elsie’s overstuffed omelets
The quaint, log cabin-like exterior seems oddly out of place along Route 1. Once inside, Elsie’s homey décor and friendly service quickly sets your mind at ease.
Unless you wind up as stumped as the gentleman who pleaded during a recent visit, “I’m having a hard time deciding. Everything looks good.”
A country kitchen boasting a broad array of breakfast options, Elsie’s keeps the focus on home-style cooking and overly generous portions. They cater to smaller appetites too, fielding abbreviated short stack (twin buttermilk pancakes) and mini-toast options (a pair of French toast slices).
Everyone else, prepare for the mother lode.
The Italian omelet is basically an egg calzone stuffed with zesty pepperoni slices, tangy tomato sauce and lots of molten mozzarella (bellissimo!). A so-bad-for-you-it’s-got-to-be-good creamed chipped beef creation summons a bulbous omelet bursting with bubbling cream and tender shreds of beef. The slightly healthier-sounding spinach, bacon and cheese omelet is packed with sautéed spinach, whole strips of bacon (so much for healthy) and gobs of American cheese. Meanwhile, tidy corned beef hash rounds are easily transformed into mini sandwiches when combined with a side of fresh biscuits.
Weekend Workhorses
Fortune
6249 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church | 703-538-3333/3338 | www.fortunebanquet.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner daily
Eggs. Toast. Bacon. Mere child’s play.
If you view brunch as more of an adventure outing than a spectator sport, Fortune’s full-contact dim sum assault may be just the gastronomic challenge you’ve been searching for.
The expansive Chinese restaurant always appears to be bustling, but never more so then when the army of steam cart-toting servers circumnavigates the main dining room (daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), hawking their myriad wares. Although the dim sum parade happens regularly, you get a wider sampling of more native dishes during the weekend runs.
Shrimp and banana rolls sprinkled with sesame seeds are a savory-sweet triumph. Pan-fried dumplings of ground pork and shredded leeks get rolled into savory bundles and wrapped in wonton skin on their way to a quick sear. An alien-looking snowball of shrimp and crab gets rolled in rice noodles and is then deep-fried to seal in the real seafood flavor. Cantonese-style roast chicken bears crispy, honey-colored skin and five-spice infused white meat beneath (delicious). An order of barbecued pork reveals a mound of jolly, red goodness, dousing fatty strips of tender pork in a sweet soy glaze. The shredded pork reemerges with a slightly tangier sauce and a buttery crust as part of an equally enticing baked treat.
Daily Dejeuner
Amphora
377 W. Maple Ave., Vienna | 703-938-7877 | www.amphoragroup.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily
Eggs made extraordinary at Amphora
Round the clock breakfast service and killer pastries to boot? Oh, you wonderful folks at Amphora—you had us at round…
A neighborhood fixture for going on three decades, the Amphora has blossomed from humble family bakery into a full-fledged local restaurant empire. Daily crowds include guests ranging from famished families to hungry business associates to book-toting singles looking to fuel up on homemade brain food.
As expected, delicious cakes and pastries abound. But the kitchen crew has proven they can now give their confectionary counterparts a run for their money.
The nascent “Heavenly Hollandaise” selections—a welcome addition to the ever evolving breakfast carte—tugs traditional eggs Benedict in international directions, including the novel eggs Plaka (crowned with tender, shaved gyro meat), eggs Italiana (layered with patties of sweet Italian sausage) and eggs portobella (replaces the standard meat topping with a grilled mushroom, preserving all the flavor without sacrificing anything). The Greek pocket places a tomato, onion and feta-filled omelet atop a grilled pita, then scatters home fries all around. If sweet is what you crave, a stack of lightly browned peanut butter pancakes delivers a nostalgic jolt without sending you into sugar overload.
Weekend Workhorses
Paradiso Ristorante Italiano
6124 Franconia Rd., Springfield | 703-922-6222 | www.paradisoristorante.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Hard to say where on his ethereal continuum Dante Alighieri might place Paradiso’s daunting brunch spread. One could argue that the banquet of rich foods and tempting desserts are meant to test the will of man. Conversely, the steady stream of complimentary Mimosas and added convenience of a supervised playroom—an understated amenity that allows both child and parent to enjoy breakfast on their own terms—could be seen as a reward for day-to-day sacrifice.
Let the theologians bicker. You are here to eat.
The entire bar/lounge area is converted into a caloric wonderland of Italian delights and breakfast standards. Eggy French toast slices are flanked by an elaborate array of otherworldy toppings like real maple or brandy syrup, whipped cream, powdered sugar and assorted fruit. Antipasto creations (tortellini and black olives, artichokes-olives-mozzarella salad) jumpstart the appetite. Cheese ravioli in a spinach-asparagus-peas cream sauce proves pasta need not be flashy to fully satisfy. Homemade beef Marsala submerges wonderfully tender medallions in a seductive wine sauce studded with mushrooms. Sugary closers include a lacy red velvet cake and a make-your-own sundae area stocked with vanilla ice cream, a cauldron of bubbling hot fudge, and sides of chocolate chips and rainbow jimmies.
Daily Dejeuner
The Coach Stop
9 E. Washington St., Middleburg | 540-687-5515 | www.coachstop.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
On the off chance your personal organizer includes abutting entries like “close multi-million $$ land deal” and “de-funkify stables” on the same afternoon, confidence is high your morning routine begins at Middleburg’s venerable Coach Stop.
Regulars receive a formal yet folksy greeting—”Good morning, Mr. ‘X.’ How was your weekend?”—before taking their place at a communal meal counter to begin laboring over their daily crossword puzzle, all the while nursing a bottomless cup of coffee. Hefty placemats adorned with fox hunting and equestrian scenes protect the worn, wooden tables. And an information smorgasbord can be had by picking up any of a number of available periodicals, including sporting journals (Horse Talk, Daily Racing Form), assorted dailies (International Herald Tribune, The New York Times), tony lifestyle outlets (Loudoun magazine, The Georgetowner) and local pubs (Leesburg Today).
But man does not live on news alone.
Dulcet slabs of sugar-cured ham slap your tongue awake. Spiced country sausage rounds sizzle on arrival. Oven-roasted potatoes emerge tender and golden brown. An order of creamed chipped beef blankets buttery, homemade biscuits in a beefy batter that clings to your fork.
Weekend Workhorses
Claire’s at the Depot
65 S. Third St., Warrenton | 540-351-1616 | www.clairescatering.com
Average entrée: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, and brunch on Sunday; closed Monday
Seems every trip out to Warrenton nets another dining destination extraordinaire. Case in point: a leisurely visit to Claire’s—an old school train station turned fine-dining experience with plenty of polish—uncovers a brunch opportunity that ties together comfort with just a touch of the unexpected.
The adventure begins with a complimentary basket of homemade, cranberry-orange scones (blissfully sweet) accompanied by frozen (tsk! tsk!) lemon-poppy seed butter. A hearty stock brimming with country ham, chewy lentils and sliced mushrooms is warming on a blustery day, but I kept wishing for a buttermilk biscuit or cornbread muffin to appear. Flash-seared tuna slices recline on crispy wonton crackers as they wait to be dunked into a tangy soy sauce or graced with a swipe of creamy wasabi paste. Plump, cornmeal-covered oysters are fried golden brown and come accompanied by a spirited bloody Mary cocktail sauce that threatens to turn breakfast into happy hour. A house special of fish and grits features a rotating fish selection (grilled trout is good) covered with scrambled eggs and a side of get’em-while-they’re-hot grits (as dense as mashed potatoes, but twice as cheesy). A dish of butternut squash ravioli showers the vegetable-filled noodles in a velvety fresh basil-Alfredo sauce blend.
Daily Dejeuner
Linda’s Cafe
45665 W. Church Rd. #109, Sterling | 703-433-5637
Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday
What’s better than having a hot breakfast waiting for you each morning? Having a hot breakfast whenever you want it.
The owner of this bright and cheery eatery says he spent five years slinging hash at the original Linda’s in South Arlington before bringing the no-nonsense business model out to the edge of western Fairfax. As such, breakfast is still served all day. Daily specials are dutifully scrawled on a dry-erase board. And the menu features the familiar omelets (ham and cheese, Western, Greek), assorted griddle fare (pancakes, French toast), and breakfast combo platters that have kept Arlingtonians well fed for ages.
A generous platter of crumbly corned beef and fluffy yellow eggs summons perfectly equal portions of each, plus a side of crispy hash browns. The namesake Linda’s omelet is a whopper of a wake-me-up, revealing a giant, egg-lined envelope filled with diced sausage, peppers, onions and just the right amount of cheese. Chopped steak and eggs unites eggs and home fries layered with grilled onions with a juicy, 6-ounce burger. Likewise, a good morning griller of lean sausage, fluffy eggs and melted cheese stuffed inside a buttery croissant gets things going at any hour.
Weekend Workhorses
Caribbean Breeze
4100 N. Fairfax Dr., Arlington | 703-812-7997 | www.caribbeanbreezeva.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Roast lechon is all the rage at Caribbean Breeze
Those who long to jumpstart their day with a hint of sabor Latino should blow into the Caribbean Breeze brunch, a global buffet melding traditional morning starters (eggs, waffles) with international favorites (made-to-order quesadillas).
Inside the sunny, pastel-laden dining area, a live jazz combo lays down a mellow groove. Jovial bartenders stand at the ready to whip up any number of festive fruit cocktails (rum and tequila figures prominently in just about everything) to brighten your mood. Or for $5 more, you can tack on unlimited Mimosas to your meal.
Just make sure to leave enough room for the main event.
Hand-carved slices of spice-rubbed lechon—a roast suckling pig dish that typically only graces Latin tables during the holidays or at special occasions—is divine, particularly when finished off with a splash of pineapple salsa. Tender chunks of charbroiled chicken shine beneath a sheen of homemade chimichurri. Crispy chicken empanadas are fantastic; the shredded chicken works equally well in the salsa-soaked enchiladas. Ropa vieja yields a hearty mass of shredded flank steak, sliced peppers and onions, all steeped in tomato sauce. Tortellini is smothered in broth of savory ground beef and stewed tomatoes (Irie!).
Weekend Workhorses
Clarendon Grill
1101 N. Highland St., Arlington | 703.524.7455 | www.cgrill.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late night dining daily; brunch on weekends
Clarendon Grill's habit-forming crab hash
You might consider it dumb luck, that a neighborhood watering hole—perhaps best known for its unshakable allegiance to local cover bands—happens to prepare some of the tastiest brunch selections in town.
But offering up those signature creations all weekend long would suggest the folks at Clarendon Grill are actually full-fledged geniuses.
The core menu features about a half-dozen specialty omelets (seafood, chicken, garden, Mediterranean, western, build-your-own) plus a number of breakfast classics tweaked for the modern gourmand.
The stunning Carolina crab hash scatters nuggets of tender crab mixed with potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and onions around a pair of hollandaise covered eggs parked atop toast rounds (glorious). A well-constructed egg sandwich—which one dining companion swears may be the best breakfast sandwich ever made, anywhere—slides eggs, ham, onions, peppers and provolone into a toasted potato roll slathered with spicy mayonnaise. For a Latin take on traditional biscuits and gravy, try an open-faced sandwich of fried chorizo and egg draped across a pair of sweet corn squares covered in country gravy. Or tear into an order of huevos rancheros bearing scrambled eggs smothered with cheese, tomatoes and onions, then poured over home fries.
Weekend Workhorses
Dixie Bones
13440 Occoquan Rd., Woodbridge | 703-492-2205 | www.dixiebones.com
Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch
Devout or not, everybody has to shore up their strength on Sunday to prepare for the week ahead. And while the worshipping masses may part company when it comes to their individual beliefs, disciples of stick-to-your-ribs-good barbecue can be found communing at Dixie Bones for what has become an unofficial after-church tradition.
Extended families squeeze into the narrow booths and risk despoiling their Sunday’s best to enjoy the heavenly arrangement of steaming barbecue, savory sides and made-from-scratch desserts.
A basket of hard rolls caters to the make-your-sandwich enthusiast in all of us. Slow-roasted beef brisket is tender, meaty and comes alive with a splash of the tomatoey house marinade (black topped bottle on each table). Clusters of shredded swine are quite fine, but get even better when crowned with the homemade slaw and a squirt of vinegar sauce (red topped bottle). Grilled Italian sausages are sweet, stocky snacks. The homemade macaroni and cheese is dripping with real melted cheddar yet never devolves into an oily mess. A heartwarming slice of pecan pie bears chopped pecans on top, a bubbling, sugary brown mash beneath, and a hearty flour crust to hold it all together.
Daily Dejeuner
Buzz
901 Slaters Ln., Alexandria | 703-600-2899 | www.buzzonslaters.com
Average entrée: under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
Breakfast by the numbers at Buzz
Having made in-roads with the late-night (Vermilion) and fine-dining (Tallula) crowds, the Neighborhood Restaurant Group now wants to corner the breakfast market with Buzz, a bakery lounge specializing in sweet nothings that are really something.
Their post-modern coffeehouse is thoroughly outfitted with cushy sofas and recliners, free Wi-Fi for roving techies and vintage toy ovens for the kids to play with. They offer a full battery of Illy-based caffeinated beverages from full espresso on down to the clever “why bother?” (decaf, non-fat, sugar-free vanilla latte), plus traditional espresso, cappuccino and even hot chocolate.
And then there are the baked goods.
Brioche packed with crumbled bacon, scrambled eggs and melted cheese is a mondo muffin concealing a built-in breakfast. Homemade cinnamon rolls are lightly glazed, golden ringlets filled with chewy cinnamon. A hearty maple sausage and cheese biscuit injects traditional buttermilk with savory-sweet sausage. A ham and cheese scone envelops the titular sandwich fillers in semi-sweet dough. Or sample any of the wonderful muffins, including pineapple-coconut (sweet hits you first while the coconut seems to linger) and strawberry (bright as a morning breeze), or fruit-filled scones (oat-currant has a welcome grit, orange-cranberry delivers a citrus kick).
(April 2007)
Tags: breakfast, brunch, Food & Wine