Western Virginia

By Warren Rojas

‘Tis summer at last. And we know that, for many readers, that means breaking free from Beltway gridlock and striking out in search of scenery more exciting than those same four walls you’ve been staring at since December.

We headed due west to check out where one might nibble on something a little different, sup native wines or otherwise indulge an appetite for adventure without having to vacate the Commonwealth entirely. Our travels led us to a variety of interesting destinations scattered throughout Northernmost Va., the Shenandoah Valley (pg. 129) and the Charlottesville area—some of which might bring back memories for area alumni (White Spot run, anyone?). Others, we suspect, may be cultural curiosities heretofore unknown to anyone but the locals they serve.

To be honest, we could have spent several more months exploring the gorgeous Virginia countryside and basking in all the epicurean delights we uncovered. Sadly, we eventually had to come home—though we’re fairly certain the meals and merriment we enjoyed along the way may last a lifetime.

Charlottesville

Wood-fired pork is always the focus at Jinx’s Pit’s Top Barbeque [1307 E. Market St.; 434-293-6904; entrees: under $12 ($); lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Sunday], a roadside shack run by barbecue purist James “Jinx” Kern.

Kern specializes in pulled pork (smoky meat and tangy sauce are sublime) and slow-roasted spareribs (slide-off-the-bone good) prepared over burning hickory or pecan logs (or both). “The critical, quintessential thing about barbecue is that it’s over fire and coals,” he argued, slamming Southern sauciers for confusing the populace with their liquid-laden meats. “Sauce-simmered meats are not something I want anything to do with.”

Slip in a quickie safari at The Shebeen [247 Ridge-McIntire Road; 434-296-3185; entrees: $13 to $20 ($$); lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily], a South-African restaurant and pub specializing in pulse-racing menu items.

The diabolically disguised peri-peri wings reveal nude-looking snacks that lack the telltale ruddiness of your traditional hot wing yet inflame the palate with their exotic pepper burn. A grilled-to-order Joberg strip summons a juicy steak accompanied by a piquant fruit-pepper relish (zesty). For an added kick, pair any foodstuff with a glass of Honey Sun chili mead (from South Africa’s Makana Meadery)—a chili-infused drink that lifts your spirits and zaps your taste buds.

Jumbo-slice fans can get their fill at one of the now four Christian’s Pizza shops [multiple Charlottesville locations; entrees: $13 to $20 ($$); lunch and dinner daily] sprinkled all over town. The longstanding gourmet pizza purveyor fields nearly two dozen specialty selections—including chicken parmigian, pesto-filled ravioli, barbecue chicken and bacon and Mediterranean (amply stocked with whole black olives)—all of which are available as whole pies (18-inch pizzas are standard) or by the slice.

Taco and torta junkies should get acquainted with Aqui Es Mexico [221 Carlton Road, #12; 434-295-4748; entrees: under $12 ($); breakfast, lunch and dinner daily], a family-run Mexican/Salvadoran hybrid which seems to skew more toward Mexico than the latter. Homemade tacos summon double-wrapped tortillas stuffed with myriad proteins, including chicken tinga (zesty, shredded chicken), marinated pork (thick chunks of savory meat) and grilled steak (my favorites, in that order). An impressive chorizo torta delivers zesty ground sausage bolstered by onions, jalapenos, beans and queso fresco (creamy yet chunky cheese spread).

Charlottesville boasts plenty of award-winning wineries, but I was most intrigued by the fledgling Virginia Wineworks [1781 Harris Creek Way; 434-923-8314]. Career importer-turned-VW co-founder Philip Stafford has partnered with winemaker Michael Shaps in an effort to produce quality local wines a la the Oregon wine model. “There’s not a lot of value at $10 to $15,” Stafford said.

The pair began production in 2007 with red, white (a viognier-vidal blanc blend), rose (full touriga) and pure norton bottlings. Their 2007 Wineworks White ($15) has a pleasantly floral bouquet with plenty of citrus bite and some slight oakiness, while the 2007 Wineworks Rose ($10) is a youthful bloom (honeysuckle nose, sweet-tart flavors) just ripe for summer plucking.

Meanwhile, VW has also developed a “custom crush” program whereby amateur winemakers can try their hand at producing their own labels. Stafford said they expect to start with a two-tier pricing structure: one for novices—those people who “just want to see the mystery unfold in front of their eyes,” Stafford said—and another for active winemakers. “For the $2 to $3 per bottle, you get us, you get our undivided attention and the use of our facilities,” he said, adding that the custom-crush costs are on top of the necessary materials.

There’s nothing amateurish about the wines I found at Barboursville Vineyards [17655 Winery Road, Barboursville; 540-832-3824], a wellspring of classic Italian wines. The 2004 Barboursville Nebbiolo Reserve ($32) delivers a nostril-full of earth and aging tobacco, whereas you’ll taste more sour cherries and dried red fruit. Meanwhile, the 2004 Octagon, Seventh Edition ($40) rewards those who are willing to wait with pronounced strawberry and plum notes enveloped by just a whiff of smoke. But if you missed this boat, don’t worry. Staff assured me the eighth and ninth Octagon vintages are already in production.

On your way back, why not pop into Prince Michel Vineyard & Winery [154 Winery Lane, Leon; 540-547-3707]? Their 2006 Prince Michel Mount Juliet Petit Manseng ($27) displays a subtle grapefruit bouquet followed by plenty of stone and citrus fruit (quite tangy) whereas the 2005 Prince Michel Mount View Cabernet Franc ($27) floods your mouth with raspberry and currant flavors and a medium-dry finish.

Aural Buffet:WNRN
This may come as a shock to our inside-the-Beltway readership, but not every radio station adheres to the “same-top-10-pop-atrocities-plus-some-random-5-year-old-‘oldies’” rotation perpetuated by D.C.’s painfully repetitive corporate rock overseers. Charlottesville’s WNRN (91.9 FM), for instance, spoils its listeners with ad-free, free-form rock from all across the musical spectrum, jamming everything from late ‘90s Modest Mouse to NoVa natives Virginia Coalition to The Raveonettes to Korn to Lily Allen to new Foo Fighters, while also producing engrossing programming like “The Boombox” (a late-night, hip-hop assault) and “Acoustic Sunrise” (a high-energy wave of a-pickin’ and a-strummin’). Granted, I did catch Mike Doughty’s “27 Jennifers” twice in one day, but that’s infinitely better than hearing Ashlee Simpson screeching three times per hour, ad infinitum. To listen online, check out www.wnrn.rlc.net.

Tout Sweet
The White Spot
1407 University Ave., Charlottesville; 434-295-9899.
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.
No disrespect to Gus Burger fans, but my favorite White Spot fare has to be the amazing “Grills With”—butter-brushed Krispy Kreme donuts, seared till their glaze dissolves into a honey-like sheen, then topped with the customer’s choice of Hershey’s ice cream. Owner Dimitris Tavampis declared the sublimely sweet treat a hot seller at all hours. “Everybody loves it,” he stated.

Bizou
119 W. Main St., Charlottesville; 434-977-1818.
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday.
This luncheonette-cum-French bistro boasts plenty of gourmet goodies, but I was hooked by their undeniably rich grilled banana bread. This hot-cold tag team delivers fruit- and nut-filled cakes firmed up from their face time on the grill, all topped with glassy scoops of ice cream that slowly dissolves into a vanilla reservoir below.

Carpe Donut
At E. Market and Second Streets (behind the Wachovia), Charlottesville; 434-806-6202; www.carpedonut.argon.org.
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Friday.
If you’re near the Downtown Mall on any given Friday, do yourself a favor and check out the fried-dough deliciousness available at the Carpe Donut wagon. Co-owners Matt Rohdie and Jen Downey fashion each hot, cakey ring from local apple cider, organic flour, eggs and spices (including sugar mixed with Saigon cinnamon) and fry ‘em up in trans fat-free soybean oil (which gets recycled into fuel for their truck).

Shenandoah Valley

Though easily accessible from I-81, the sun-splashed beauty and mountain views from Shenandoah Vineyards [3659 S. Ox Road, Edinburg; 540-984-8699] make it seem miles away from all the hustle and bustle of the interstate. The 2006 Shenandoah Johannisberg Riesling ($14) displays citrus and spice, and a slightly oily finish reminiscent of comparable European whites. Their signature 2005 Shenandoah Founder’s Reserve Chambourcin ($20), on the other hand, is all Virginia, delivering splashes of red fruit and oak across the tongue.

A trip to Downtown 56 [56 W. Gay St., Harrisonburg; 540-438-5600; entrees: $13 to $20 ($$); lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday] confirms that this college town has finally turned out an adult playground where boisterous boomers can indulge in some well-deserved fun.

A retro martini lounge boasts a striking marble-topped bar surrounded by a dozen stools, a handful of high tops, some hideaway booths and a piano nook. If the bowling shirt-clad bartenders can’t get you to crack a smile, the near daily drink specials (static mix-and-match beer buckets, cut-rate cocktails on Wednesday nights) most certainly will.

The menu bounces comfortably from college-friendly cuisine (grilled avocado panini) to seasonally inspired fare (roast venison). An impressive crab cioppino summons a seafood medley of fish, mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops and crab soaking in a hearty tomato brew (a Bay Area favorite now available in the Valley). New Zealand lamb is seared to order and lain to rest atop a marvelous mushroom risotto (wine-soaked grains layered with velvety mushrooms), which could easily be a standalone star.

The glass-enclosed pastries at area Mr. J’s [multiple Shenandoah Valley locations; entrees: under $12 ($); breakfast, lunch and dinner daily] test your willpower. Quartered cinnamon-raisin bagels are slathered with sinfully sweet frosting; elsewhere, a raspberry-white chocolate scone yields fruit-filled dough laced with a chocolate undercurrent, even as racks of freshly baked bagels (over 20 breads to choose from) threaten your waistline.

Customers have been cruising into Wright’s Dairy-Rite [346 Greenville Ave., Staunton; 540-886-0435; entrees: under $12 ($); lunch and dinner daily] for over half a century, and the venerated burger haven shows no sign of slowing up.

This well preserved drive-in has 35 call box-ready car slips still serviced by burger-toting attendants and banks of booths inside outfitted with phones linked directly to the kitchen. The Superburger summons a triple-decker helping of beef, cheese and Wright’s secret sauce, which theoretically predates the Big Mac by over a decade. The daunting Dogzilla reveals a massive frank buried beneath all the toppings you can handle (a battery of ketchup, onions, chili and cheese is best described as “messy bliss”).

Just up the road sits the renovated Mill Street Grill [1 Mill St., Staunton; 540-886-0656; entrees: $13 to $20 ($$); dinner daily, Sunday brunch], a one-time flour depot now best known for its dedication to barbecue, live jazz and Southern hospitality.

The restaurant boasts a pages-thick menu supplemented by some fairly ambitious daily specials (pan-seared sweetbreads, exotic seafood). Guests are typically greeted with fluffy homemade popovers accompanied by flavored butters (strawberry-kiwi, coconut varieties caught our attention). Carefully simmered brisket arrives swabbed in a sauce that’s busy with sweet but also quite tangy. Baby-back ribs reveal succulent meat slathered in a decidedly spicier sauce. Of course, no meal is complete without a complimentary send-off of peppermint ice cream (fun for all ages).

High art meets country sensibility at Staunton Grocery [105 W. Beverley St., Staunton; 540-886-6880; entrees: $21 to $30 ($$$); dinner, Tuesday through Sunday], an ingredient-driven enterprise that embraces its small-town roots whilst spoiling patrons with metropolitan panache.

Virginia natives Ian Boden (chef/owner) and Kyle Boatright (general manager/wine director) preside over the roughly dozen tables that make up this barely year-old experiment in locally sourced cuisine. The prominently displayed “Featured Producers” board up front trumpets the local farms, organic butchers and artisan producers that supply the agricultural building blocks Boden reconfigures into gourmet gold.

A chance encounter with the soul food staple that is chicken and waffles—“Chef really likes to play around with traditional concepts and really make them his own … And that’s one that’s been really successful,” one server explained—reveals a Southern feast of pecan-crusted waffles drizzled with sorghum molasses, leafy collard greens and roast chicken (moist as all get out). Tender, grass-fed beef slices are draped over buttery-rich lardo risotto decorated with caramelized porcini mushrooms and a chewy cippolini bulb. A one-two punch of Earl Grey-spiked chocolate soup flanked by cinnamon-sugar-dusted apple beignets was an absolute knockout.

Brew Crew
Love beer? Then head for the mountains. Better yet, skip the scenic rock formations and head over to Blue Mountain Brewery.

Co-founder Matt Nucci said he and his partners modeled their nascent brewery after the surrounding vineyards, building a cozy, lodge-like tasting room with an adjoining bar/microbrewery and a wraparound patio out front. “We didn’t really want to build a bar in downtown Charlottesville,” he stated.

Nucci said they keep six homemade beers on tap, which rotate seasonally, including: Blue Mountain Lager, Full Nelson Pale Ale (big hoppy flavor), Rockfish Wheat, Irish dry stout (strong chocolate-coffee overtones); their “Evil 8” dubbel (rich, sugar beet sweetness) and Dark Hollow (residual bourbon hits you right away). Nucci noted that they expect to unveil a strawberry-infused brew later this summer, with a Christmas beer to follow this winter.

9519 Critzers Shop Road, Afton; 540-456-8020; www.bluemountainbrewery.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for weekend lunch, dinner, Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.

Northernmost Virginia

Here’s a quick tip for anyone who may be heading out the Winchester way for the first time: That “81” you see on all the highway signs isn’t actually a route number. It’s the minimum speed you should expect to travel, as evidenced by the blur of commuters—be they freight-laden 18-wheelers, RV-toting pickups or collegian-piloted import coupes—you’ll likely encounter while navigating the freewheeling traffic artery.
Tucked behind the downtown Winchester promenade sits One Block West [25 S. Indian Alley; 540-662-1455; entrees: $21 to $30 ($$$); lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday], an epicurean gem hidden in not-quite-plain sight.

Owner and self-taught toque Ed Matthews loves to work seasonally, but seems to regularly work assorted game and artisan meats (keep an eye out for ever-changing interpretations of rabbit, quail and Surry Sausage—smoked pork produced exclusively by a southeastern Virginia family) into his menu rotation. The aforementioned grilled sausages are only the starting point for a brilliant salad melding savory pork, bitter celery, tart cranberries, caramelized apples and crunchy walnuts (a textural and flavorful delight).

Matthews’ affinity for all things Old Dominion spills over into a wide-reaching wine list boasting dozens of global whites and reds by the glass, including over a half-dozen homegrown dessert selections (all local wines are stamped with a prominent VA! tag for easy identification).

Weekend visitors looking to grab a quick bite before trekking back eastward should stay away from the Village Square Restaurant [103 N. Loudoun St., Winchester; 540-667-8961; entrees: $21 to $30 ($$$); lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch], lest they be lured in by a leisurely Sunday brunch that can easily spiral into hours of gustatory enjoyment.

Guests can dine a la carte or elect to indulge in a three-course, prix fixe menu featuring your choice of soup (cabbage and lamb, shrimp and parsnip bisque caught our eyes) salad and entree, accompanied by a buffet of gourmet appetizers (smoked salmon was good, but a refreshing cucumber-red onion salad stole the show during one visit), gourmet breads (mini-croissants, fruit-filled muffins) sweets (brownies, cobblers) and unlimited champagne, mimosas or cranberry spritzers.

A main course of corned beef and cabbage almost bested me, delivering a mammoth cut of slow-cooked beef that doesn’t flake like the hash-ready stuff, but instead slices like steak (stays ridiculously juicy, thanks to the thin ring of fat retained during butchering) and comes flanked by sauteed cabbage and roasted potatoes. The house crab cake is less showy but still incredibly satisfying, summoning a generous serving of herb-laden crab drizzled with red pepper aioli.

Those who choose to take Route 7 home would be wise to take a detour to Veramar Vineyard [905 Quarry Road, Berryville; 540-955-5510], a quaint estate that keeps turning out award winners.

One tasting room aide couldn’t resist sharing that their seyval blanc is a personal favorite of owner Della Bogaty’s, hence the reason it’s always available. Della must like ‘em crisp, because the 2006 Veramar Seyval Blanc ($17) packs plenty of citrus on the nose and smacks of grapefruit, but remains surprisingly easy on the acid. I was more partial to the NV Veramar Rooster Red ($19), a lusty, Bordeaux-style meritage boasting plenty of spice, red-fruit flavors and some serious tannin. “It’s an ager,” an aide suggested.

Whether you choose to start or end your exurban Virginia dining tour at Spelunker’s [116 South St., Front Royal; 540-631-0300; entree: under $12 ($); lunch and dinner daily] is clearly a matter of personal preference. Then again, you could hit it BOTH coming and going—making sure to alternate between devouring hot-and-juicy cavern burgers and old-fashioned frozen custard to break up the monotony.

This venerated burger shack bears some unlikely aesthetic touches (landscaped koi pond, anyone?) but otherwise keeps things simple. The signature burgers are the stuff of legend, yielding burly homemade handhelds—grilled beef patties are piled high with American cheese, crisp bacon and a smorgasbord of fixin’s (ketchup, pickles, mustard, onions, mayo)—that are unapologetically sloppy (the flimsy paper wrappers can only hope to contain the beefy goodness within) and undeniably delicious.

Meanwhile, an old-school Electro Freeze machine cranks out rainbows of fabulously creamy and silky-smooth frozen custard. Chocolate and vanilla are standard, while the flavor of the day rotates between frosty temptations like coconut-cream pie, coffee chip, chocolate-Bavarian torte, black raspberry and spumoni.

The Inn at Little Washington
After 30 years and countless accolades, what’s left to say about this temple of epicurean wanderlust?
Plenty.

A perfectionist with a short memory, chef/proprietor Patrick O’Connell continues to challenge guests with menus displaying a penchant for seasonal, gourmet cuisine executed with plenty of whimsy. Likewise, staff continues to provide the personal touches that keep patrons coming back, year after year. As one guest wondered aloud whether to have another glass, sommelier Meredith Bearov playfully nudged, “Go ahead. You’re at the Inn.” When another seemed saddened by the prospect of actually finishing the meal, a server teased, “It doesn’t have to end. We’ll bring out more food.”

By all means, bring it.

A nibble of prosciutto-wrapped pear performs a salty-sugary pas de deux. A minimalist masterpiece of homemade lasagna ties together fresh asparagus, shaved ham, woodsy morels and creamy bechamel beneath ribbons of pasta. Pecan-crusted rabbit (so deliciously tender) runs wild across an island of pureed peas. Desserts absolutely dazzle, from a minty dream of fudge-streaked ice cream parked atop a dark-chocolate coin to a citrus trifecta of lemon custard, lemon meringue and raspberry coulis (marvelous). 
According to O’Connell, the Inn remains the “best bargain in America.”

Towards the end of one visit, a neighboring couple that had apparently been hanging on our waiter’s every word confessed, “We enjoyed your tasting menu, too.”

Talk about an unbeatable value.

309 Middle St., Washington; 540-675-3800; www.theinnatlittlewashington.com. Average entree: Over $31 ($$$$). Open for dinner daily.

Dung Beetles Grill & Bar
If necessity is the mother of invention, consider DBGB’s its punk-rock lovechild.

The culturally askew establishment was borne out of the efforts of entertainment-starved owners John Scarlett, Shane Lloyd and Chris Mason, who came together to bring their hard-charging musical haven to sleepy downtown Winchester. Heavily tattooed staff keeps flinging drinks well after most townsfolk have retired for the evening, while a who’s who of hardcore bands parades through most weekend nights.

Beers range from domestic standbys (Pabst Blue Ribbon, anyone?) to seasonal craft brews (Widmer Hefeweizen), while eats focus on bar snacks and all-out Americana (a hefty patty melt bleeds juices all over the warm, buttered Texas toast and arrives topped with a thicket of caramelized onions).
28 E. Piccadilly St., Winchester; 540-545-8444; www.myspace.com/dungbeetles
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

(June/July 2008)

Tags: Food & Wine, Western Virginia