‘Wich Hunt

Monstrously Good Eats!

By Warren Rojas / Photography by James Kim and Hana Jung

Sink your teeth into stupendous subs!

Hoist humongous hoagies to your lips! Or just plain marvel at the outlandishly original sandwich creations that await within.

Cheesetique Cheese & Wine Bar
2411 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria | 703-706-5300 | www.cheesetique.com

Gourmet grilled-cheese aficionados can get their fill of molten dairy at Cheesetique’s chic (and cheeky) wine bar.

Cheesemonger Jill Erber brings in hundreds of cheeses for her retail operation, reserving some of the finest milk solids around for use in her rotating cheese boards and homemade sandwiches.

Manager Sarah Mason said their signature grilled-cheese combo—currently paired with either a spicy gazpacho or cayenne-infused cucumber-melon soup—is naturally “really, really popular.”

No argument here.

The calcium-rich construct fuses salty Taleggio and nutty Fontina with savory onion jam (didn’t get much sour, though the sweet was bolstered by the baked onion sourdough), while a smattering of mixed herbs does it best to deliver random flashes of garden freshness.

Their take on panini fills out buttery, grilled sourdough with a gooey mass of aged Grafton cheddar, mellow pear slices and diced pancetta (cheese envelops all, ham brings the savory, and the Bartlett pears add sweet crunch).

Earl’s Sandwiches
2605 Wilson Blvd., Arlington | 703-248-0150 | www.earlsinarlington.com

For as long as I can remember, I have incorporated deep-fried potato products—be they in chip, shoestring, waffle or tot form—into any and all sandwiches preparing to pass between my lips.

Some people stare slack-jawed when I start my culinary consolidation routine. Others have openly mocked me.

Not Stephen Dugan. He gets it.

The Earl’s Sandwiches proprietor has paved the way for other closet potato-packers to indulge their starch-laden passions in public with his signature pork-and-fries creation.

Earl’s associate Michael Newman said Dugan stumbled across something similar to the pork and fries during a trip to Pennsylvania and immediately began toying with the potato-on-pork theme when he got home.

The end result features rustic ciabatta bread swabbed in a radioactive chipotle mayo—even my spice-averse better half appreciated the potency of this pepper-powered dressing—and loaded up with shaved pork (smoked in-house, daily), hand-cut spuds, diced onions and tangy pickle chips.

The Pearl is another gem of a meal, boasting slow-roasted turkey breast (plump, juicy slices of bird smoked in-house, daily), lump-free gravy and tart cranberry dressing dolled up with real cranberries (like Thanksgiving dinner on a bun).

Philadelphia Tavern
9413 Main St., Manassas | 703-393-1776 | www.philadelphiatavern.com

For many restaurants, brunch provides an opportunity to play with dining expectations by trotting out savory snippets born to sate mid-morning cravings. At the Philly Tavern it means: even bigger cheesesteaks.

This home-away-from-home for City of Brotherly Love transplants keeps the seats filled by serving up over two dozen specialty cheesesteaks (all prepared on fresh Amoroso rolls) and signature tavern sandwiches, including classics like liverwurst and onions. On Sundays, they up the ante with assorted meat-egg-and-cheese offerings (yeah, they got pork roll) and: the Big Fella.

The Big Fella
This breakfastified cheesesteak pads artfully grilled chopped steak and onions with made-to-order eggs (scrambled version weaves warm fluff into each bite; over-easy spills yolky goodness across the gullet) and your choice of cheese (veneer of bubbling provolone delivers a silky embrace; river of molten cheese whiz is an in-your-face delight).

South Philly Zep
If getting up before 1 p.m. on Sunday sounds like heresy, the signature South Philly Zep can vanquish hunger at any hour with a combination of grilled steak, vine-ripe tomato slices, a splash of oil and vinegar, bonus grilled salami and more melted provolone.

“I’m surprised when people get it because it’s so much meat,” manager Cathy Fennessy said of the beef-laden behemoth. “It’s insane.”

The Italian Store
3123 Lee Highway, Arlington | 703-528-6266 | www.italianstore.com

The wrapper crinkles indignantly as my fingers fight to expose its precious cargo. Seconds later, a warning patch of glistening oil alerts my senses to the now-forthcoming bout of deliciousness.

And suddenly, there it is: a bonafied muffuletta.

Muffuletta
A N’awlins staple, the muffuletta is an engineering feast predicated upon a host of savory sandwich mates—not the least of which is an olive salad boasting assorted olives, peppers, cauliflower, capers, carrots and celery.

In keeping with tradition, Italian Store owner Robert Tramonte said he gets his olive condite direct from New Orleans and has hired an ex-New York baker to make the Sicilian rolls special for him.

The extra effort is duly appreciated.

Each hollowed-out roll houses a towering mass of salami, prosciutto, provolone, mortadella, nutty olive oil, mixed peppers and sapid olive salad (pickled powerplay packs a sweet-briny sensation into every mouthful).

Tramonte suggested, however, that people tend to gravitate towards the muffuletta after they’ve seen/heard something about it, whereas his Milano flies out the door on a daily basis.

The Milano
The Milano layers cappacola, prosciuttini (cooked ham with black peppercorn crust), provolone and genoa salami on hard roll, then douses everything in a house pepper blend (roughly 3/4 sweet to 1/4 hot) that provides a solid afterburn.

Austin Grill
Multiple NoVa locations | www.austingrill.com

This homegrown Tex-Mex chainlet is perhaps best known for its oversize burritos, brimming tacos and scrape-the-bottom-of-bowl-good chili (see our June/July 2006 review).

But we’d now like to show some devoted love to their firecracker of a tuna sandwich.

Tuna sandwich
The well-grilled medallion of juicy tuna steak arrives lacquered in a terrific chile glaze (deceptively sweet veneer is dotted with telltale red pepper flakes), and is finished with squiggles of chipotle mayo (Southwestern spices kick the inherent heat up a few notches) and creamy avocado slices (buttery buffer helps temper the zesty sauces).

Bahn Mi D.C. Sandwich
3103-C Graham Road, Falls Church | 703-205-9300

I have several friends who could happily subsist on pho for the rest of their lives. My appreciation for Vietnamese street food, on the other hand, tends to tilt more towards the baguette-filled delicacies known as bahn mi.

Much like the many other ethnic bakeries to be found strewn about Falls Church, Bahn Mi D.C. specializes in exotic sweets (durian-wintermelon-mung bean cakes, anyone?) and savory sandwiches.

Their sandwich board touts two dozen flavor combinations—including staples like sour ham, grilled meatball and barbecued pork belly (thick, fire engine-red strips of zesty swine)—all under $3.50. All sandwiches are dressed with pickled radishes, cucumber, hot peppers, freshly torn cilantro and mayonnaise.

Shredded pork
A shredded-pork number is remarkably spicy, delivering to the palate wispy strands of air-dried pig (not at all desiccated like jerky; more like fiery cotton candy) that’s sauce-free yet flavorful.

Creamed sardines
Creamed sardines are even more enticing, infusing the traditionally oily fish with some underlying heat to contrast with the accompanying sour vegetable mix (a terrific seafood change-up).

Meanwhile, the shop owners keep their bulk shoppers happy with a standing “buy-five-get-one-free” deal.

La Caraquena
300 W. Broad St., Falls Church | 703-533-0076 | www.lacaraquena.com

Areperas are as ubiquitous in Venezuela as McDonald’s are here. But, until recently, fried-cornmeal fans had nowhere to turn (nowhere worthwhile, anyway) for a fix of these stuff-’em-to-your-liking snacks.

Gracias a dios por la familia Claros-Ugarte.

Co-owner Juan Pablo said his family picked up a penchant for arepas while living in Caracas and have been preparing them for decades—first at the original La Caraqueña they opened in Bolivia and now in Falls Church.

“We were missing the arepas,” he said of the clan’s desire to recreate their favorite South-American comfort foods.

Younger brother and chef Raul—who spent part of this year at a Venezuelan culinary academy—noted that, in true Venezuelan fashion, the arepas have colorful nicknames, including: “Peluda” (beef and cheese), “Reina Pepeada” (chicken and avocado) and “Domino” (black beans and cheese).

A traditional carne mechada arepa summons golden dough (love that delectable crunch) crowded with slow-simmered, shredded beef still dripping with peppery tomato juices. Add some grated queso paisa (semi-soft, country cheese) for a salty snap. Meanwhile, the reina pepeada folds steamy chicken and mashed avocado into a lush poultry filling better than your average chicken salad.

Hamburg Döner
202-A Harrison St. S.E., Leesburg | 703-779-7880 | www.doener-usa.com

To hear Hamburg Döner general manager Nils Schnibbe tell it, they pretty much HAD to introduce their oversize rotisserie sandwiches to the Northern Virginia market.

“It’s the most popular sandwich in Germany,” Schnibbe said. “Besides, [owner] Timo [Winkel] missed it dearly.”

Winkel’s loss is truly our gain.

Schnibbe said their döner bread is custom made by an artisan baker in Baltimore and pointed out that schnitzel is served on a grilled bröthchen (traditional German hard roll). Meanwhile, the rotating meats—they feature roast chicken the first of the week, then switch to beef on weekends—are handled in-house.

“If we would have more space in that tiny kitchen, we would have beef and chicken all the time,” Schnibbe said of the menu limitations imposed by their cramped cooking quarters.

No apologies needed.

The traditional döner is loaded with moist, shaved beef, scads of crunchy carrots, onions and cabbage, streams of modified tzatziki—augmented by a shower of crushed red pepper flakes (brilliant)—and hearty grilled bread. A chicken version bathed in low-fat yogurt sauce conserves calories without losing a whit of flavor. Tempting extras include double meat (way too much food) and crumbled feta (tres tangy).

honorable mention
Spicy Pickle
44650 Waxpool Road, Ashburn | 703-723-9420 | www.spicypickle.com

What this Colorado-based, quick-dining shop lacks in local color they more than make up for in variety (the company claims you can create over 150,000 sandwiches from their ingredient stock) and creative thinking.

Our favorite flavor mash up was the Yard Bird, a wholly satisfying shaved chicken medley that is almost overshadowed by star turns from a supporting cast of honey mustard (boldly sweet), crumbled bacon, sliced green apples (crisp, delicious fruit) and an avalanche of blue cheese (a savory-piquant power play).

honorable mention
Grevey’s
8130 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church | 703-560-8530

Nothing against the core sandwiches featured on the Grevey’s menu. But why would I sip from a teacup when I can drink from the river?

The metaphorical font in question is the $10.50 soup/salad buffet Grevey’s rolls out each weekday at lunch.

A Grevey’s staffer confirmed that there is always a trio of meats—roast beef and turkey remain static, variables like brisket or honey-baked ham rotate in—on the carving board. Factor in unlimited slices of American and Swiss cheese, a bounty of breads (Kaiser rolls, wheat/white/rye) and the homemade chicken salad (quite meaty) on the salad bar, and you’ve got enough artillery to win the war against hunger many times over.

honorable mention
Capital Grille
1861 International Drive, McLean | 703-448-3900 |  www.thecapitalgrille.com

Those who foolishly believe that any loose affiliation of chopped meat qualifies as a steak sandwich should allow the Capital Grille to show you the error of your low-expectation-having ways.

Their mouthwatering rib-eye sandwich features a 12-ounce cut of well-seasoned beef (an inch-high slab of well-marbled meat) smothered in melted havarti and caramelized onions (bring the sweet), all shoehorned into a crisply toasted baguette. Meanwhile, a side of subtle but still flavorful horseradish cream sauce (this steak is an absolute beast—let’s amp up the zing, CG!) injects just a touch of spice.

(October 2008)

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Tags: Food & Wine, sandwiches