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Korean Fried Chicken Challenge

By Warren Rojas

There are those who will forever associate fried chicken with a mythical, white suit-clad “Colonel.”

But some local foodies have already begun falling in line behind another kind of KFC—Korean Fried Chicken, following the arrival of two Asian-born franchises in our area. We marched in for a taste test:

BONCHON CHICKEN
COMPETITORS
CHEOGAJIP CHICKEN
Crackling skin resembles roast duck, sans the grease CRUNCH Lightly batter-fried coating locks in the bird’s natural juices
Soy-garlic (subtle but satisfying); spicy (barely-there glaze swings from sweet to stunning) SPICE Sweet and mild (savory blend punctuated by sesame seeds); hot and spicy (ruddy, crushed red chili-garlic paste stings so good)
Moist, delicious meat through and through FLAVOR Tender meat displays hints of five-spice
Whole wingettes, drummettes and drumsticks only PRESENTATION Whole chicken hacked into bony nuggets and jagged breast bone pieces
25-35 minutes WAIT TIME 15-20 minutes
Medium order (14 pieces): $10.95; large order (24 pieces): $17.95 PRICE Plain fried chicken: $12.99; sweet and mild/hot and spicy chicken/combo: $14.99
Dine-in chicken and beer combos, traditional Korean entrees (seafood, fried dishes) EXTRAS Popcorn chicken, exotic pizzas (bulgogi, sweet potato)
Annandale: 703-750-1424 LOCATIONS Annandale: 703-941-1506; Centreville: 703-815-8744; Fairfax: 703-273-4499


Verdict: Cheogajip satisfies if you’re in a hurry, but we don’t mind waiting a little longer for the tongue-teasing heat and easy-to-handle pieces from Bonchon.


(November 2007)

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