On Enemy Ground

Cheering for the home team is expected in this town (at least until the last-ditch, league-wide, loss-assisted playoff hopes irrefutably evaporate each December).

But plenty of previously disenfranchised football fans have found that they can, in fact, go home on any given Sunday by communing with fellow NFL refugees at expat-friendly houses of sports worship like these.

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Jonathan Timmes

Hard Times Cafe
6362 Springfield Plaza, Springfield; 703-913-5600; www.hardtimes.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Amidst any sea of burgundy and gold, waves of royal blue and silver almost certainly arise.

Particularly when Texas chili is a signature menu item.

The cavernous Springfield Plaza complex is one part traditional area and carryout counter to umpteen parts sports entertainment—a formula sustained by nearly 90 sports-blaring TV sets, countless pool tables, assorted sports-related video games and pit boss machines and an afternoon-erasing draft beer lineup (roughly two dozen frost-covered lines).

Game day dining specials include: $2.50 stadium drafts (16 ounce), $2.99 Bloody Marys, $3.50 rail drinks, $5 appetizers and $9 domestic pitchers, all till 9 p.m. They also honor their evergreen perks, including free pool (with $8 purchase) from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Nothing on the Hard Times menu is particularly hard on the wallet. Your waistline, on the other hand, might take a few hits.

Foot-long tube steaks are deluged in your choice of homemade chili—Cincinnati-style summons cumin- and cinnamon-steeped beef; Terlingua red injects peppers-fueled fire into tomatoey goodness—while a hail of shredded and coarsely chopped onions bring it all home.

Those looking to gird their loins for an extended drinking venture should stay away from the incredibly filling bowl of chili taters. This tribute to beef and starch reveals spuds baked to burnt umber and smothered in well-seasoned ground beef (Texas-style brew delivers heat, simmered tomatoes and a charred character), shredded cheddar (this place must go through cheese like water) and thick, rich sour cream.

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Original Steakhouse & Sports Theatre
43145 Broadlands Center Plaza, Ashburn; 571-223-0100; www.theoriginalsteakhouse.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

“We’re a football bar, man. That’s when we come to life,” a flirty Original Steakhouse staffer assures me when she catches me scanning the incredibly subdued surroundings during an off-season visit.

You’re preaching to the choir, sister.

Come Sundays (or even during weekday happy hour), the Ashburn complex draws parched fans from across the sports-worshipping spectrum, including single men, extended families and, according to manager John Dugger, gangs of San Diego Chargers fans.

Not ones to waste any wall space, the Ashburn location boasts 10, 100-inch projection screens that envelop bar patrons like an NFL-sanctioned Snuggie. Those who prefer to nosh in the booth-filled main dining area needn’t fear missing a moment of gridiron glory courtesy of the halo of smaller (but still perfectly watchable) cathode ray tube sets parked up above.

Likewise, real estate doesn’t factor into the equation when ordering, as the restaurant makes all its menu items—including the rotating lineup of daily soup, entree, vegetarian and homemade ice cream specials—available to guests seated anywhere.

The signature nachos interlay multicolored chips with plenty of cheese and, sadly, wan chili (beans and beef were all there, but no spice/pizzazz/personality came through). Luckily, you can audible your way into a more respectable heat index by requesting sliced jalapenos.

Staff raves about the steak-and-potato soup, a worthwhile brew interspersing cubed steak, diced potatoes and hearty spice with an undercurrent of bisque-like creaminess (hits the spot).

Butter-stained bread does its best to contain an ooey-gooey treat of grilled ham, tomato and cheddar (salty and satisfying).

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Philadelphia Tavern
9413 Main St., Manassas; 703-393-1776; www.philadelphiatavern.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Sunday.

With the city’s name and Liberty Bell tattooed across their logo, there’s no questioning which team Philadelphia Tavern owner Mark Leporatti backs every week.

“We’re an Eagles bar,” he states unwaveringly.

Based on the decor, it appears management cherishes two things: ANYTHING Philadelphia (Eagles’ and Phillies’ memorabilia figure prominently). And emergency personnel (the bar is covered in a patchwork of firefighter, police and rescue services iron-ons).

Faithful patrons, meanwhile, seem to appreciate the cold drinks and stimulating conversation they apparently cannot find elsewhere.

One regular made no bones about camping out at the bar all day. “VFW wasn’t open yet,” he informed a buddy planted a few stools away.

Another bleeted, “See you for wings on Wednesday” as he stumbled out into the harsh light of early afternoon.

If the bar sets ’em up, the kitchen most surely knocks ’em down.

“You want all of ’em? It’s good that way,” the waitress suggests when I ask about the cheesing options—American, Swiss, provolone and Cheese Whiz, for the record—for their signature cheesesteaks.

The monster sub lines an imported Amoroso roll wit’ Whiz, chopped rib-eye steak, grilled onions, tender mushrooms, luscious tomato slices and crisp lettuce ribs, all blanketed by a triple threat of molten dairy (outrageously cheesy, but well worth the Herculean effort).

Beer-spiked chili is more beef and tomatoes than beans and fire. But a crown of sour cream, onions and cheddar goes a long way toward keeping you interested all the way to the bottom of the bowl.

Pre-game enticements include $2 Bloody Marys, Mimosas and Red Eyes (tomato-spiked beers) during brunch.

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Brittany’s
12449 Dillingham Square, Woodbridge; 703-730-0728; www.brittanysrestaurant.com
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Brittany’s co-owner Bob Geck has seen his fair share of Terrible Towels—what with the Virginia Black and Gold Club taking up residency at his come-as-you-are bar every weekend.

“We’ve probably got 150 Steelers’ faithful that come out every Sunday,” Geck estimates.

The Pittsburgh presence is so prevalent, in fact, that Brittany’s now features a Steel City tribute boasting grilled, mixed greens and french fries buried beneath a mountain of shredded cheddar and ranch (the single “salad” was presented with four containers of dressing).

Woe to the iron gut-less who attempt to topple this monolith in a single sitting (don’t say I didn’t warn you).

Smaller appetites are easily accommodated by the puny but plentiful chicken wings (about 20 pygmy-sized pieces per order), prepared in a panoply of curious sauces, including: mild, hot, death, hot garlic (fairly mild, but with a definite garlic character to them), sexy (intriguingly cinnamoned), peanut butter & jelly (got the peanut; still waiting on the sweet), old bay and chili-lime.

Meanwhile, a cheese-salsa-olive collaboration turns traditional potato skins into nacho dirty bombs (but in a good kind of way).

Those more interested in sporting events than eating decathlons can catch all the NFL games on the bar’s nearly three dozen TVs (embedded atop the octagonal bar, lined up at the front of the main lounge and strategically positioned wherever else possible). Interactivity seekers can test their own mettle in between downs at the pool tables, dartboards and sports-themed video games (bowling, golf, boxing, hunting and shuffleboard) propped up all around the restaurant.

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Murphy’s
713 King St., Alexandria; 703-548-1717; www.murphyspub.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Sunday.

The amassing of three Super Bowl rings in the first half of this decade and the near-constant threat of piecing together a flawless, 16-game season (till then, the ‘72 Dolphins remain NFL kings) has no doubt helped the New England Patriots lure boatloads of fans on board.

But, sink or swim, the Patriots’ faithful line up at Murphy’s every week to watch their team battle for gridiron glory.

“I think there’s an Irish connection,” manager Kenny Mitchell jokes of the blatantly northeastern allegiances of his regulars (the seats are filled for Yankees and Red Sox games as well).

Pats fans can beatify Tom Brady via the jumbo screen and plasma TVs mounted upstairs. And while the downstairs is typically reserved for dining, Mitchell says football fans could always request equal time for their favorite club. “If anybody wants to watch a game downstairs, they can always ask,” he suggests.

According to Mitchell, game day deals typically include rotating appetizer specials and cut-rate Samuel Adams drafts.

Blackened tuna reveals spice-dusted nuggets of deliciously tender fish (a great seafood shake-up). Bangers and mash reach new heights via a pylon of mashed potatoes braced by semi-sweet sausages (not your typical smoky link, but not syrupy McGriddle-like jolt either) and rained upon with savory brown gravy.

The house Reuben reveals piles of corned beef—presented open-faced for easy inspection—complemented by sauerkraut (pickled cabbage grabs your nostrils and never quite lets go), firm rye bread (that’s the stuff) and melted Swiss (a Hibernian masterpiece).

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Crystal City Sports Pub
529 S. 23rd St., Arlington; 703-521-8215; www.ccsportspub.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Sunday.

“Oh yeah, that’s still THE place to go if you are a Giants fan,” a Tom Coughlin devotee informs me, crowning Crystal City’s sprawling, three-tier, sports-entertainment complex as his home away from the Meadowlands.

Co-owner John Finlay says the multipurpose pub attracts football fans like flies to honey—thanks in no small part to the over 100 TVs spraying electronic athleticism across upturned faces from dawn till dusk.

During NFL games management carves out separate “volume areas” for every contest. So no matter what your team, you’ll never get stuck squinting to follow the action via unintelligible closed-captioning.

If live-action is more your speed, CCSP offers transportation ($40 per bus ride/tailgate pass; $150-plus for a ride and tickets to the game) to every Redskins home game. “We sell out at least one to two buses per game,” Finlay states.

Those who choose to stay behind can enjoy pool, darts and poker downstairs, al fresco dining on the middle floor or meander down memory lane upstairs (the walls are plastered in local sports memorabilia, from a 1971 Washington Senators’ program ($0.50) to a framed Len Bias jersey). Not to mention the full-service bars and omnipresent sports tickers located on every level.

Finlay says game day specials fluctuate from discount appetizers to regional specialties (pulled pork, clam boats). “There’s just some good, old-fashioned gimmes,” he says of their feed-the-masses strategy.

Most burgers work (juicy patties, varied cheeses) until they don’t (a supposedly Thai-style creation was just plain confusing).

Buffalo shrimp are abundant but underwhelming (more sauce, less breading, please).

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Jimmy’s Old Town Tavern
697 Spring St., Herndon; 703-435-5467; www.jimmystavern.com
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily.

Diehard football fans live to give opposing team followers guff. But Jimmy’s Old Town Tavern owner Jimmy Cirrito further tests the NFL faithful by putting his money (read: cream pies) where his mouth (face) is.

The friendly wagers are an outgrowth of Cirrito’s fierce love for the Buffalo Bills and a lifelong desire to entertain guests.

“I cannot tell you how many pies have been tossed over the years … hundreds,” the baby-faced Western New York native says of the football-based food tossing, adding, “I think this year I’ll be doing most of the tossing! Go T.O.!”

Whereas he might not be able to compete with other bars in audio/video technology (JOTT has around a half dozen hideaway TVs), Cirrito prides himself on broadcasting every Bills game and offers up regional goodies to help authenticate the experience.

That means pouring discount Labatt Blue and Labatt Blue Light beers and serving up certain game-day staples.

Poutine lovers can fill their guts with crisp spuds smothered in white American cheese (other specialty cheeses available by request) and beef gravy.

The beef-on-weck summons a generous tangle of shaved beef (awash in salty au jus) heaped onto soft roll and partnered with horseradish (timid, but tasty) and coleslaw (more cruch/zest needed).

A pierogies-and-kielbasa platter delivers salt, starch and sour cream in spades, a dining trifecta executed by pan-fried dumplings filled with mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese, grilled sausage and onions and more coleslaw (sweetish salad counteracts the sodium in this case).

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Kitty O’Sheas
2403 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-522-5295; www.kittyosheasva.com
Average entree: ($$$$). Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday.

Although futbol—a.k.a. soccer, to the non-FIFA obsessed among us—remains his first love, Kitty O’Shea’s founder Daniel McFadden welcomes sports fans of every persuasion at his pint-sized Arlington pub.

The insanely tight-knit bar shoehorns more than a dozen stools around a jagged central bar, while a few booths and floating high-tops round out the perimeter.

A handful of plasma screens keep patrons abreast of real-time sporting events, while faded NFL pennants (we spotted felt tributes to the Eagles, Cowboys, Steelers and Panthers—though the latter looked like the most battered of the bunch) and UK soccer memorabilia honor champions past.

After a few decades spent stomping around upstate New York, McFadden fancies himself a Bills’ fan. But he suspects Panthers fans will once again claw out a place for themselves at the bar, particularly since the leader of the Carolina fan club recently moved back into the area.

Not that any cheerleading is required to enjoy what Kitty’s got to offer.

Sunday specials include brunch, followed by half-price burgers and $3 Miller Lites from noon till closing. They also do half-price wings from 6 p.m. till closing on Monday nights and half-price burgers all day Thursday.

Cooked-to-order burgers live large thanks to accommodating buns (soak up lingering juices like a champ), worthwhile toppings (rich cheeses, fresh vegetables) and enough fries to sate even the most famished fan. An order of Donegal chips produces a mountain of thick-cut, homemade potato chips fried to a crisp and smothered in melted cheddar, coarsely chopped bacon and chives.

(October 2009)