Pouring It On

Wine bars that bring the wow!

By Warren Rojas / Photography by Jonathan Timmes

I need a drink.

Not right now. And certainly not every day.

But it is nice to know that when the mood strikes, these restaurants will quench my thirst and soothe my soul with fine wines, nifty cocktails and a healthy dose of hospitality.

My cup runneth over.

Vinifera Wine Bar & Bistro
11750 Sunrise Valley Drive, Reston; 703-234-3550; www.viniferabistro.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sunday.

While thumbing through Vinifera’s globe-spanning wine list, I foolishly asked the seemingly pleasant waiter about his favorite local pour.

“There’s really only two wineries that are any good, and we don’t carry them,” the uncompromising chap shot back with authority.

A brutal, and clearly subjective, assessment of Virginia winemaking.

But one that I found to be refreshingly honest—given that less-principled servers might have gleefully pushed plonk in an effort to fatten the check.

Not here: in Vinifera veritas.

Temperature-controlled wine dispensers keep around two dozen bottles primed for sampling. The by-the-glass options tend split between old guard (France, Spain, California) and up-and-comers (Virginia, Lebanon, New Zealand), with most pours pricing out between $9-$20 a pop.

The 2007 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc wafted just-picked peaches up at me before tickling the palate with gooseberries, citrus and a faint grassiness.

A glass of 2006 Martín Códax Albariño thrust wildflowers in my face just before doing a slick, spicy pas de deux across my tongue.

The 2006 Brick House Gamay Noir proved thrilling. The lively red leapt from the glass, teasing my nostrils with lush red fruit while dousing my tongue in flirty tannins and vibrant berries (remarkably sippable).

My search for some middle ground led me to the remarkable 2007 Domaine de la Petite Cassagne Rose, a representation of the lushness the Languedoc can muster via flashes of cherry, plum and burnt cinnamon, with a mild oiliness that helps the red fruit cling to the back of the throat for a good long while.

After a rocky start (the restaurant has cycled through three chefs in as many years), chef Bo Parker appears to have finally brought the cuisine up to par with the fairly expansive wine program.

A healthy crab cake deposited amidst mashed butternut squash and whipped mascarpone rises up to face the gourd-and-cream treatment, deploying sweet meat to greet the savory dairy while marshaling a baked seafood presence to balance out the dulcet vegetable tones.

A tower of citrus-splashed tuna is bolstered by briny capers, crunchy pine nuts and crusty baguettes—all of which shine that much brighter when dabbed with the tangy, cippolini-backed aioli (sweetacular) provided.

Roast chicken proves big, flat and flavorful, its spice-tinged skin supplying ample richness, while the moist breast sops up a seductive honey-truffle sauce with gusto. A celeriac-potato puree pretty much just plays ball, but gets plenty of help from the perfunctory islands of acid that are hidden slivers of roasted tomato (culinary game-changers).

kybecca wine bar & shop
402 William St., Fredericksburg; 540-373-3338; www.kybeccawinebar.com
Average entree: Under 12 ($). Open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.

As I stood there mulling which of kybecca’s choice vintages to indulge in next, I was suddenly reminded of what I most enjoy about wine bars: hearing what other people think about the mystical libations streaming in and out of our collective glasses.

“This does NOT taste like coffee,” one amateur critic informed his non-plussed mate as they swirled, slurped and systematically broke down each new pour. A few rows over, a gaggle of multigenerational ladies (spanning from late 20s to early 60s), each armed with a bottle of wine, uttered nary a word—but the constant tinkling of glasses and round robin of giggling that would ensue with the tip of every bottle spoke volumes about how wine can truly bring us together.

Kybecca owners Kyle and Rebecca Snyder certainly know how to keep the good cheer flowing, baiting guests with a rotating catalog of eclectic varietals (nice to see someone championing Loire Valley chenin blancs, Spanish garnacha and Greek moschofilero) in their enomatic dispensers.

The 2001 Vougeot “Le Clos du Prieuré” Blanc Monopole produces an unexpectedly frank chardonnay; I loved the lemon/citrus nose and unabashedly buttery flavor.

One swig of 2005 Barrel 27 Syrah was all it took to rekindle my love of fruit-forward reds with soft, round tannins and spice for days.

A chance encounter with Chateau Fantin Bordeaux Rouge restored my faith in bargain hunting, gripping me with a forceful handshake fueled by black fruit, pepper and vegetal essences and then winding me down with a full-bodied finish.

The Snyders’ commitment to craft beer is just as great, as evidenced by the dozens of artisan brews they showcase, including: a boatload of Belgians (Maredsous 6, Gulden Draak, multiple Chimay, Orval), the best of North America (multiple Dogfish Head, Unibroue, Bell’s Brewery) and even some gluten-free bottles.

Meanwhile, Kyle keeps diners guessing with inventive daily specials (red wine-sage sausage and cheesy grits, fried ravioli in bison marinara) and locally sourced creations.

A gourmet sandwich stuffed with Morbier and prosciutto is insanely rich and highly addictive. The cured ham electrifies each bite with its salty pedigree, while the creamy cheese spreads aged mellowness into every corner of the grill-marked ciabatta. “It’s our version of a grilled cheese. We just happen to have better ham and cheese than most,” the sous chef jokes.

Acorn squash is stuffed until bulging with crumbled chorizo, a proprietary blend of shredded New Zealand cheddar and Gruyere and panko bread crumbs, and then baked to perfection (sausage is mildly spiced, cheese blend is grand and the creamy-sweet squash literally gives to its very core).

EatBar
2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington; 703-778-9951; www.eat-bar.com
Average entree: Under $12 ($). Open for dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday.

Pork belly at every turn. Cartoon brunches. And dozens of wines for the sampling (in 3-, 6- or 10-ounce pours, no less).

If EatBar just carved out some sleeping quarters, I’d move in already.

The relaxed pub to Tallula’s slightly tonier dining room, EatBar continues to captivate thanks to the culinary daring of chefs Barry Koslow and Joey Alvarez and the oenological savvy of wine director Juliana Santos.

The wine list, though pages deep, staves off exasperation by pouring selections into playful categories like “bright and racy” (sauvignon blanc), “soft and supple” (merlot) and “sweet and sticky” (desserts). The roughly four dozen, by-the-glass options cover the global basics, but also display an appreciation for out-of-the-way finds (Australian Rhone clones, Italian dolcetta, Austrian zweigelt, Spanish mourvedre).

The 2008 Stadt Krems Gruner Veltliner charges out of the glass with grapefruit and citrus, but quickly mellows into a nice, easygoing white.

The 2008 Hacienda Araucano Carmenere offers no such retreat, proving unrepentantly musky but appropriately bold—its bright red fruit tempered with a slight gaminess (an acquired taste, to be sure, but right up my alley).

The 2005 Quinta de Roriz Prazo de Roriz Duoro attempts a more delicate balancing act, providing a rush of red fruit up front and a dry, inky finish at the end of each gulp (well played).

The menu, meanwhile, seems to turn on gourmet snacks, seasonal mains and wine-craving charcuterie.

Grilled squid, aioli-dabbed chickpeas and sundried tomatoes pull off an expectation-shattering textural swap (the squid hardened from smoke, the tender beans cushioned further by the creamy sauce, the desiccated fruit conveying garden freshness) that’s as alluring to behold as it is to consume.

Moist and meaty polpette sink into a sea of preternaturally creamy polenta bolstered by robust tomato ragout.

The house version of chicken and waffles summons well-executed bird—the golden thighs deliver a carefully coaxed crunch around the edges, but delicious moistness right down the middle—lain to rest atop a malted waffle (the ultimate gravy mop), all accompanied by garlic-infused kale, buttery homemade gravy (the bonus onion is fantastic) and a side of maple syrup (enhances the sweet, but is actually unnecessary).

It’s a rollercoaster of a meal, all right, and a ride I hope to revisit very soon.

Luckily, the odds appear to be (short) stacked in my favor.

While devouring said chicken, a chatty barkeep offered a theory as to why the kitchen crew has suddenly taken to weaving homespun waffles into various signature offerings and their new theme brunches—while procuring their new waffles irons, the EatBar team got roped into buying gallons and gallons of waffle mix, too.

Idylwood Grill & Wine Bar
2190B Pimmit Drive, Falls Church; 703-992-0915; www.idylwoodgrill.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday.

I’ve yet to wander into the Idylwood Grill and not find founder/owner Hedi Ben-Abdallah sharing a bottle (or two) of wine with some clearly enthralled group of restaurant regulars.

Why settle for jawboning about wine when experiencing it firsthand is on the table?

The cozy neighborhood restaurant/retail operation fields around 100 different wines (global reach; most under $100), including 40 by-the-glass selections ($6-$13 a pop) and a fluid roster of “guest wines” culled from recent finds.

Ben-Abdallah expresses an affinity for cabernet and shiraz from Australia, pinot noir from Argentina or New Zealand and viognier and syrah from California’s Central Coast, whereas he suggests general manager Martin Escudero remains partial to Argentinean malbecs, California zinfandels and Chilean carmenere.

The 2007 Macon-Lugny “Les Charmes” Chardonnay laid out the best of Burgundy, flooding my nostrils with lemon, splashing grapefruit on the tongue (dug those flashes of sour) and, thankfully, eschewing the meddling woodiness favored by shortcut-seeking winemakers.

A glass of 2007 Farnese Sangiovese spoke of dried pepper and purple fruit, with tannins that clung to my teeth and surprising depth that left me licking my lips in anticipation of the next sip.

Ben-Abdallah makes a point of posting recommended pairings for all their daily specials, but otherwise invites guests to try their hand at ferreting out the perfect wine to complement chef Marvin Hernandez’s Mediterranean-style cuisine.

Mussels steeped in white wine and butter (supporting cast of garlic, onions, tomatoes and capers packs a garden of flavor into every bite) are an exercise in tempered richness and pickled pop.

A plate of Merguez sausages buoyed by simmered beans and smoky harissa—“The only dish from my home country, Tunisia,” Ben-Abdallah notes—is plentiful, but somewhat bottom-heavy. The lamb links are genuinely delicious, but wind up looking somewhat skimpy reclining atop the mountain of barbecue-like navy beans.

Artichoke hearts (well-placed agents of acid and grassiness) and grilled salmon—the gingerly charred edges and tips smack of smoke while the remaining flesh conveys only a passing acquaintance with open flame—give gnocchi new life, riffing smartly off the herby notes imprinted on the pesto-covered dumplings.

Trummers On Main
7134 Main St., Clifton; 703-266-1623; www.trummersonmain.com
Average entree: $21 to $30 ($$$). Open for dinner daily, brunch Sunday.

A well-known adage suggests, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”

Here’s a 2010 update: When in Clifton, take your cues from Stefan Trummer and Tyler Packwood.

Trummer (owner/resident mixologist) and Packwood (sommelier) have stirred up the burgeoning cocktail scene at Trummer’s swank first-floor lounge.

Guests can sip on circa 20 respectable pours (most in the $9-$15 range)—think West Coast (California, Oregon) and Eastern Europe (Germany, France), as well as a surprising dearth of New World pickings (can count the Virginia, New Zealand and Australian offerings on one hand).

A filled-to-capacity flute of NV Barboursville Brut revealed a toasty sparkler with just a whisper of residual sugar (fun, anytime refresher).

The 2007 Foxglove Zinfandel was much more assertive, bombarding me with black cherries before lulling me into submission with a nice, ripe red-fruit chaser.

Meanwhile, Trummer shakes things up with seasonal cocktails plucked from nature’s bounty (lemongrass, elderflower, smoked watermelon).

The Titanic summons a well-balanced cooler that hits your sweet (muddled green grapes), sour (elderflower), cold (homemade sorbet) and bubbly (champagne) receptors without overloading any one pleasure center.

Crushed ice, pressed sugar cane, dark rum and fresh lime come together in the very tart but amazingly refreshing Cubano.

Meanwhile, chef Clayton Miller makes his own fun with bold bar snacks.

A buttermilk biscuit does its best to contain a gourmet trifecta of seared foie gras layered with sauteed eggplant and crème fraiche (the sandwich absolutely oozes richness).

Unctuous pork, potent Valdeon and tangy-sweet blackberry jam gloriously commingle beneath the cover of flaky dough in the simply named but expertly executed “brisket on a biscuit.”

The house burger shoehorns pure Angus beef—the patty glistening with juice and dripping savory goodness—into a homemade ciabatta bun (top notch) dressed with a quick hit of ketchup and serious pickle slice (gives the taste buds a vinegary goosing). Artisan cheeses (grated Comte layers on the lustiness) only up the enjoyment ante.

The Wine and Duck
117 E. Main St., Front Royal; 540-636-1000
Average entree: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner, Wednesday through Monday.

The first person I encounter as I stroll into the Wine and Duck is a beefy fellow with multiple piercings and a Misfits tattoo peeking out from his forearm.

This is my kind of place.

General manager Phillip Schuyler (he of the horror punk ink) is a jack-of-all-trades who knows his menu by heart, spins yarns about the restaurant’s food/decor/special events with genuine enthusiasm, and even educates guests about how/where to shop to duplicate the culinary feats paraded before them (a la the gents who seemed hard pressed to find Serrano chilies or crystallized ginger in rural Virginia).

And that’s exactly the type of community bonding self-taught chef/owner Paul Bakos was hoping for when he opened in March 2008.

Bakos nurtures that dream with approachable, seasonally inspired cuisine and an enviable beverage catalog.

He’s herded together around two dozen highly prized craft brews, including: Chimay Blue, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse, Abita Turbo Dog, Leffe Blonde and Dogfish 90 minute IPA. The wine list features about a dozen by-the-glass options, including lots of West Coast and Eastern European standards—but, curiously, just a single local pour (2008 Glen Manor Sauvignon Blanc)—all for under $11.

The 2006 Maison Bouachon “Les Rabassieres” lavished the senses with lush red fruit and food-parrying tannins (very Cotes-du-Rhone). A 2005 Columbia Crest blend proved utilitarian, spreading cherry across the palate and rounding out every mouthful with spice.

Meanwhile, Bakos plans to up his wine carte (eyeing another half dozen pours) and streamline his menu.

Pepper-coated prime rib (the menu says 12 ounces, but one cut looked to be a pounder, easy) arrives planted atop a bed of mashed potatoes dressed with thick-cut bacon, red onions and a sheet of melted cheddar.

Tender slices of duck doused in tamarind-Vermouth sauce (quite tangy) are escorted by chilled spinach and vinegary batons carved from daikon radish (translucent ribs add real bite to the dish).

An Italian-born tiramisu—“It just tastes better because of the unpasteurized ingredients,” Bakos says of his lone commercial concession—delivers moist cake sprinkled with cacao and dripping with liqueur.

(February 2010)