Ode to Oregon

By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Domaine Serene Winery

Plenty of wine hounds are quite passionate about pours from the Pacific Northwest—Kelly Magyarics, included.

She relished past trips to Oregon, heralding their trend-setting wine industry for striking “that delicate and elusive balance of New World ripe fruit and Old World restraint.”

Courtesy of SOKOL Blosser (Evolution); Courtesy of Willamette Valley Vineyard (Pinot gris)

Magyarics offered up the 2007 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris ($16) as proof of her great winemaking hypothesis, trumpeting the “pear and honeydew” notes and “minerality” presented by the Muscat-infused white. “I really enjoy this wine because it’s got a lot of ‘oomph’ with barely the use of any oak,” she suggested.

Walter Martley pushed the white-blend envelope significantly further, touting the Sokol Blosser Evolution 12th Edition ($19)—a virtual who’s who of vitis vinifera varietals (nine total)—as an all-around white that plays well with everything from fresh seafood to murgh makhani (spicy North Indian stew). “In short, it is one of the most versatile wines for food that I’ve encountered,” he asserted.

In terms of bold reds, Martley preferred the “broad red and black cherry flavors” and “long, sumptuous finish” he encountered in the 2005 Domaine Serene “Evenstad Reserve” Pinot Noir ($55).

“This pinot noir represents the classic Pacific Northwest balance between the more fruit-forward style of California and the leaner, earthier style of classic red Burgundy,” he estimated.

Magyarics, too, was attracted to classic Burgundian attributes as interpreted by Oregon soils, selecting the 2006 Belle Vallee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($25) as “the best of both worlds.”

“It’s soft and supple, with plum and berry and a hint of spice,” she suggested, adding that she also enjoyed the “earthiness” (think: “mushrooms, wet ground or loam”) this particular pinot brings to the table.

Kelly Magyarics President, Kelly Magyarics Wine Consulting

Walter Martley Wine Specialist, Whole Foods Market Fairfax

(March 2009)

Tags: Nectar, Oregon, wine