California Dreamin’

By Warren Rojas

2006 Calistoga Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Photography by Hana Jung)

Local wine buff Marvin Stirman devoted his entire professional career to wine retailing/wholesaling before bowing out of the trade in 2003.

Of course, he then went Dutch on a Napa winery with a bunch of like-minded local residents. “I’ve been a lover of wines for 50 years,” the unrepentant oenophile states.

Stirman helped gather the unlikely wine barons together in 2004, secured the vineyard and winemaker (third-generation Sonoma vintner Harry Parducci Jr.) in 2005 and watched their first vintage hit retail shelves in 2006.

“Now the struggle is to try and sell enough wine,” Stirman says, adding that he now spends his days plotting how best to build up the budding label in a down economy.

His job is at least a little easier thanks to the budget-friendly profiles crafted with Parducci ahead of time.

Stirman says his goal has always been to produce low-tannin, easy-drinking blends people could pick up at the store and enjoy the same evening. “These wines are not made for Bob Parker,” he posits.

Walter Martley says the 2006 Calistoga Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($18) strikes a “nice balance between fruit and acidity,” likening it to a “bistro white” easily paired with light seafood dishes or perhaps some mild cheeses.

Martley digs the “candied edge” to the 2006 Calistoga Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), pointing to the ripe cherry notes and “dusty tannins” as signs the wine could stand some additional cellaring.

“It’s not a big, bag-you-over-the-head cab flavor,” Martley suggests, “[but] I’d like to revisit that vintage maybe six months down the road.” I relished the blackberry notes and lingering tannins (clings to the teeth a bit) of this perfectly pleasing weekday pour.

Stirman’s already researching reasonable pinot noir sources (currently too expensive) and suggests they could add Zinfandel to their portfolio in the very near future.

“I think it’ll happen … with the next vintage,” he predicts.

To explore the full Calistoga Estate catalog or search for a participating local retailer, please visit: www.calistogaestate.com.

Kelly Magyarics President, Kelly Magyarics Wine Consulting

Walter Martley Wine Specialist, Whole Foods Market Fairfax

(May 2009)

Tags: 2006 Calistoga Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 Calistoga Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marvin Stirman, Nectar, wine