Rise of the Urban Wineries

By Warren Rojas

A trip to Virginia’s wine country used to require daytrips out to the hinterlands of the Old Dominion.

No more.

This summer, two new urban wineries—both nurtured by acclaimed vintner Chris Pearmund—look to usher in the next chapter of Virginia oenology.

Kirk Wiles, Paradise Springs Winery

Jane Kincheloe (mom) and Kirk Wiles (son) will lead the charge with the debut of Paradise Springs Winery, a farm winery carved from the family’s historic land holdings in Clifton.

Regulators and local homeowners originally balked at the idea. But Gov. Tim Kaine removed the last legal barrier by signing H 2071— a law endorsing farm wineries in order to “preserve the economic vitality of the Virginia wine industry”—this spring.

“People are afraid of change. But there’s nothing to be afraid of,” Wiles says of their modest viticultural enterprise. “We just want to find a way to keep the land.”

Meanwhile, Pearmund aims to lure grape buffs out to his Warrenton Vint Hill Craft Winery—a make-your-own enterprise for those who wish to escort a wine “from berry to bottle.” With a tasting room, to boot.

Vint Hill will accept between 100 and 150 applicants this year, all of whom will theoretically produce a full barrel (25 cases/300 bottles) of custom-tailored wine. Base juices include: cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, zinfandel (California-only), cabernet franc (Virginia), viognier (Virginia) and syrah (California-only).

Clients are encouraged to be as hands-on as they like, with rotating workshops offered each weekend throughout the 2009 season. “We’ll offer you as much time and information as you can swallow,” Pearmund pledges.

A full run will cost about $6,000 per person ($20 a bottle), $8,000 if they tack on every upgrade (premium grapes, new oak, etc.). The finished wines should be ready by summer 2010.

Paradise Springs Winery – 13219 Yates Ford Road, Clifton; 703-830-9463; www.paradisespringswinery.com
Vint Hill Craft Winery – 7150 Lineweaver Road, Warrenton; 703-991-0191; www.vinthillcraftwinery.com

(July 2009)

Tags: Nectar, Paradise Springs Winery, Virginia wine, winery