Beer Me

All Aboard the Barleywine Bandwagon

By Warren Rojas

2008 Green Flash Barleywine and 2008 Southern Tier Back Burner (Photography by Hana Jung)

While the vineyards slumber, many craft brewers spend the winter giving barley and hops a go at the world of fruit-forward, alcohol-laden libations with their signature barleywines.

The often-intense bottlings mimic traditional wine styles, but retain the true beer character gourmet suds hounds so vehemently treasure.

Which is why we huddled with a trio of local tastemakers—including D.C. Beer Week co-founders Jeff Wells (sales manager, DOPS, Inc.) and Teddy Folkman (chef/co-owner, Granville Moore’s), as well as Againn beverage director Elli Benchimol—to figure out which high-test brews could forge inroads with grape lovers.

The 2008 Green Flash Barleywine (10 percent) had a brandy nose, with hints of coffee and toffee on the palate. “It’s totally madeirized,” Benchimol decreed.

The 2008 Schlafly Reserve Barleywine (10.2 percent) left Folkman virtually speechless—and who can blame him after the pineapple nose and spray of tropical fruit this oak-aged stunner delivered.

The 2008 Southern Tier Back Burner (9.1 percent) was an easy drinking pour with stone fruit on the nose and a smooth finish.

The 2008 Avery Hog Heaven (10 percent) led with a honey bouquet and followed up with robust hoppiness.

“A great transitional beer for hop heads,” Folkman opined.

The 2008 Rogue Old Crustacean (13.5 percent) dazzled with its honeysuckle/vanilla nose and hoppy finish, but also packed a big alcohol burn. Benchimol pooh-poohed the pour, labeling it “too medicinal.”

Booze-to-Barleywine cheat sheet
(as prescribed by Benchimol and Folkman)

(January 2010)