The Vines That Bind

Food-friendly pours

By Warren Rojas

Adegas Gran Vinum "Nessa" Albarino

The new year brings a fresh face to the Vino fold, Jake Parrott. The “recovering” wine merchant lists his vinous loves as “the Loire, northern Italy, Beaujolais, Jura and any wine that speaks of its place.”

And, lucky for us, plenty of wines have been speaking to our Wine Pros as of late.

Parrott has become quite conversant in enological opportunities afforded at the Fair Lakes’ Whole Foods seafood counter. He finds the 2008 Podere Canneta Vernaccia de San Gimignano ($14) to be a perfect accompaniment to fried calamari, but suggests the Tuscan white bears “a spicy, hot-stone character to provide depth with or without food.”

A Whole Foods bouillabaisse calls for something stronger. And Parrott finds it in the 2008 Adegas Gran Vinum “Nessa” Albarino ($15), heralding the “spice and floral notes” and “Riesling-like, lime zestiness” as fitting companion for the hearty fish stew.

Kelly Magyarics communes with her latest white at the Brabo Tasting Room, marrying the 2007 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis ($52)—“I love its lemon-y, green apple flavors and minerality,” she gushes—to a bowl of chorizo-baked bivalves.

She found herself admiring the depth of the 2008 Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Noir ($44) during a recent trip to PassionFish, noting that its “red cherry and berry flavors … allow the wine to sing next to duck, its spiciness and medium body make it a great match for lamb, and its low tannins and refreshing acidity make it perfect next to many seafood dishes.”

(February 2010)