French Lessons

Multipurpose whites

By Warren Rojas

Courtesy of Montinore Estate

Our wandering Wine Pros waded into the Loire and Languedoc this month, fishing out some stunning bargains. Jake Parrott stumbled upon the captivating 2008 Marc Ollivier Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($15) whilst unwinding at Trummer’s on Main, hailing the “flinty, oyster-shell edge” and “zippy lemon/lemongrass flavors” of the well-crafted white.

Kelly Magyarics pushed forth into the Languedoc, paying tribute to the precursor to Champagne with a nod to NV Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux Blanc de Blancs ($12). She billed the “mouthwateringly appealing apple and citrus flavors” and “clean finish” of the alterna-bubbly as the perfect complement to freshly shucked oysters or coquilles St. Jacques.

Meanwhile, she suggested that bargain white hunters would be wise to stock up on the 2007 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet ($9). Magyarics touted the “subtle aromas of melons, green pear and grapefruit” as adept foils for all manner of entertaining staples (soft cheeses, seafood, pasta dishes with cream sauce).

Returning stateside, Parrott picked the 2008 Montinore Estate Borealis ($14)—a muller-thurgau/gewurtztraminer blend boasting “a pithy, grapefruit edge and juicy acidity”—as the ideal companion for some of Trummer’s most savory morsels. “With the country ham or chicken confit sandwich, this little white blend is a winner,” he advised, adding, “I don’t drink many New World wines, but this one is both intriguing and a crowd pleaser.”

(May 2010)