Just A Taste: Pizzeria Orso

Posted by The Editorial Desk / Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

“I’m glad I came. They’ve redeemed themselves,” my companion decreed after revisiting Falls Church’s most highly anticipated Neapolitan pie haven, Pizzeria Orso.

Like many of the online backbiters, my friend had raced to try pizza poet Edan MacQuaid’s nascent solo project shortly after opening–and had wandered away sorely disappointed (“How can pizza be soggy AND burnt?”).

I must admit, I fully expected the wheels to come off once our mop-headed, heavily tattooed teen server began popping off at the mouth about freshly shaved, raw porcinis and waves of splashy San Marzano tomatoes. But either that kid was doing an Oscar-worthy job of parroting management’s carefully crafted, gourmand-stroking spiel or staff have accepted MacQuaid’s deep, abiding love for seasonal spoils and artisan ingredients as their own personal mantras.

I’m leaning towards the latter.

Sweet, milky burrata virtually shimmies atop a mouthwatering slice of oil-packed tomato, which is itself supported by a garlic-rubbed, oil-bathed slice of artfully seared sourdough (handmade by fellow flour slinger and 2941 cohort, Patrick Deiss).

Meanwhile, MacQuaid indefatigably polices his showpiece pizza oven (pictured above), hustling items out promptly before the DOC-sanctioned, 90-second cooking window expires.

I’d say each pizza and/or panuozzo spends roughly 2/3 of its minute-and-a-half firing time diametrically opposed to the blistering heat source, only to be paraded to within inches of the flames just prior to evacuation so that every inch of the crust bubbles, bulges and chars to maximum effect.

The resulting crust is fluffier than some folks may be used to. But I found the combination of ash, encrusted sea salt and liberal olive oiling most intoxicating.

And don’t even get me started on the basil.

Whether fully intact atop a classic Margherita or finely ground into homemade pesto (another extra virgin olive oil-led triumph), the captivating herb is quite obviously one of MacQuaid’s favorite muses.  Though I think a similar case could be made for Orso’s marvelous dairy (tongue-teasing ricotta anyone?).

Now, if only MacQuaid would make good on the promised cannolis already…(“They’re coming,” a seemingly just as anxious staffer said of the not-quite-ready-for-prime-time dessert).

–Warren

Tags: Edan MacQuaid, Falls Church, food, Gut Check, Neapolitan pizza, Northern Virginia Magazine, Patrick Deiss, Pizzeria Orso, restaurants, Thea MacQuaid, Warren Rojas, Wicked Bread