Skip DC’s Ketchup Retinkering; Try Lyon Hall’s Housemade Mustards Instead
Posted by Stefanie Gans / Wednesday, December 28th, 2011
Washington City Paper’s Chris Shott has been bitching about housemade ketchup all year. In the food editor’s polemic, 57 Reasons to Hate Homemade Ketchup, Shott tears through restaurants brave enough to attempt the tomato-based concoction, calling it “artisanal glop.” He lists José Andrés’ attempt as “thin syrups” that “look like watercolor paints, and don’t taste much better.” He comes to the poetic conclusion: ”it sucks.”
Shott’s ketchup vendetta even earned a spot on the alt-weekly’s year-end cattle call of trends, disappointments and minor victories.
But I think Shott’s anger might lessen if he traveled to Clarendon for Lyon Hall‘s rendition of a housemade condiment: mustard. Executive Chef Andy Bennett offers a seasonal rotation of mustard varieties, recently showing a pumpkin mustard that works well right from the spoon (or maybe baked into a pie crust).
At the moment, the roster includes an apple mustard, an English Pub mustard (too bitter for me), a stout mustard and an IKEA-friendly lingonberry mustard. Past mustard infiltrators list like a trip to the farmers market: strawberry, peach and plum.
The mustard assortments are paired with pretzels (see photo), the housemade charcuterie plate and select dishes (get the shortrib frank!) And if your dish doesn’t arrive with mustard, feel free to request a complimentary sampler.
But, will Bennett start a duel with Heinz 57? “I would take un-Heinz any day,” laughs Bennett.
Check Lyon Hall this summer for his textured–and fiery–take on the tomato icon.
(PS – Shott is my former editor. I can say these things.)
Photo courtesy of Lyon Hall
Tags: Andy Bennett, artisanal ketchup, Chris Shott, condiment war, condiments, Gut Check, Heinz 57, housemade ketchup, José Andrés, ketchup, ketchup war, Lyon Hall, mustard, Northern Virginia, Northern Virginia Magazine, NoVA, Stefanie Gans, Washington City Paper