Hair-Blazing

First Lady Obama turns talk of all things coif in area salons

First Ladies turn the tide of style in D.C., but none has had quite the impact of Michelle Obama. From up-dos to flats, brooches to slacks, workouts and work, she’s changing not only the way area women dress, but how they view themselves.

By Tracey Edgerly Meloni

Knowing Your Roots
First Ladies come and go, along with their own appointed stylists, but Northern Virginia salons remain. Nancy, Barbara, Hillary, Laura, Michelle—how do salons stay current? By embracing the dynamic, and remembering their core clients. Hair length and hemlines may fluctuate at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, but bread-and-butter clients stay the course—if treated well.

Owner Irma Wheeler opened Illusions 16 years ago. She travels constantly to research the latest and best in hair-care products, and makes sure staff is on top of the trends through continuing education. The effort her clients appreciate most: being taught how to recreate their salon look at home, with very simple steps.

Alexandre de Paris in Fairfax has clients who have been coming back for over 15 years for his cuts and colors. “We strive to provide a truly enjoyable experience that leaves every individual looking and feeling their best,” says owner Alexandre of his namesake salon. He also insists on “cutting-edge training” for all employees.

Ronnie Elias’ owner Ronnie Hier has a disarming way of interviewing potential staff. He asks, “Are you a nice person?”

“People are the secret to our success,” he says. “Clients write or tell me in person what a good feeling they get in our salon.”

Bubbles opened 30 years ago and has grown to 36 salons in three states and D.C. They call themselves “trend gurus,” and they must be right.

“Bubbles’ philosophy—great hair reasonably priced—seems just right for today’s value- and quality-minded mood,” client Russelle Ring says. PR at Partners, another multi-outlet company with loyal fans, credits “advice, advice, advice” with its success, according to Natasha Laws-Dunn, director of marketing. “Every client visiting us receives a FreshLook consultation that consists of advice on styles that work for their lifestyle and face shape, and how to recreate the look at home.”

A sense of community and giving back boosts some salons. “Every year for the past eight years we’ve participated in HopeCuts, [which] raises money for AIDS and cancer research,” says David Bakir of Jon David Salon. This year, the salon is also designating a day for American military troops, donating a percentage to hygiene products for soldiers.

Burke’s Beau Totale, founded in 1996, treats clients as welcome guests. The salon also participates in the Locks of Love program and works with women’s shelters.

Prima Hair and Day Spa’s team members “view the business as if it were their own,” says Gina Patrucco, co-owner of the McLean spa. “They are professional, experienced and knowledgeable on the latest products and treatments.”

At Dessange, “the customer is the star of the salon,” says Claude Courtet, artistic director at Tysons Corner’s Dessange Paris. “We are all trained to listen—not only to what clients say, but [also to] interpret what they are not saying.”

With locations in Great Falls, Reston and Fairfax, Christie-Adam Salon & Spa “strives to grow by maintaining a market edge in color, design and style that is translated to our clients,” operations manager Vivian Daniel says.

Such Great Heights
Eyebrows went up along with Michelle Obama’s hair for the first White House dinner; jaws dropped when she pulled her hair back for a Department of Agriculture pep talk. Is up back in?

Stylists say it never went out, at least not for formal events. But not all hair is easily able to be swept up, and stylists aren’t mind readers. Everybody agrees: Bring pictures—lots of them—of what you don’t want as well as what you do.

Usually the up-do goes with a wedding. Hier says, “The bride should come in at least twice before the wedding,” with the second meeting a week before the event.

Laws-Dunn advises brides to “wait on buying a headpiece until she knows what style she wants.”

Bakir suggests washing and drying hair at home the day before the actual event for ease of styling, and to “be sure to allocate plenty of time for hair and makeup.”

Powell suggests that even for smaller black-tie or other formal events, the client should provide a photo of the dress she’ll wear. Then the stylist will perform a “run-through, so the client can see exactly what her hair will look like. It alleviates any stress.”

Wigging Out
Wigs and those who style them can save a woman during her most vulnerable moments. Northern Virginia’s stylists care.

During chemotherapy, Dessange minimizes stress by first cutting hair very short, then styling a natural wig to suit the client. According to Cortet, they shave the client’s head “to avoid anxiety over watching hair fall out” and, at no cost during treatment, periodically re-shave and apply clay shampoo to treat the scalp. After the completion of chemo, a new style is developed. “We are always there to do what we can.”

PR at Partners provides complimentary wig cut and style during chemo treatment.

Extending the Tress
Ronnie Hier notices an increase in wig use “for aesthetics as well as medical issues. … This is where bond and trust [in the stylist] come into play.” Celebrities are sporting lavish hair extensions this year, for fun, volume, length and color.

Elie Elie creative director Barbara Lhotan is certified to do both Great Lengths and SoCap extensions. “We also do temporary beaded systems along with clip-on hair systems.” Ronnie Elias also favors these products.

Glynn Jones in Alexandria uses Great Lengths natural human-hair extensions. A full head can take eight hours.

PR at Partners has expert extenders at their locations in Manassas and Warrenton.

Jon David Salon uses clip-on extensions, and has an in-house pro on staff for more permanent solutions.

Owner Alexandre of Alexandre de Paris believes that “extensions give women the ability to create styles in an instant.” Color extensions can be added to create a natural highlighted effect or a “funky flash” of color.

Taking it Home
Going green and staying natural are growing product trends, but clients still want tools that work, are simple to use and nourish their hair. At Illusions, “green products are increasingly popular,” says Powell, adding that Agadir Argan Hair Oil is “a product our clients can’t seem to live without.” The salon uses the KoKo ammonia-free color line and its 10 nourishing products. These include Miracle Moisture Shampoo, Miracle Leave-In spray conditioner and Leave-In deep conditioner.

For Ronnie Elias, “the trend we see is toward sulfate-free, sodium chloride-free and paraben-free shampoos and products,” Hier says. The salon makes sure that any products carried are color-safe and has developed its own budget-friendly line.

Glynn Jones uses Brit Girl hair products, Brit Chic makeup and Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel by MD Skincare.

“Clients want a simple home routine to keep hair nourished, strong and stylish between visits,” Gerdak says. So Elie Elie has created two signature collections: Curl Definesse, much loved by curly-headed clients, and Moderne.

At PR at Partners, there are “prescriptive solutions across multiple lines,” according to Laws-Dunn. “Women need treatments that last, making hair healthy and manageable, combined with styling products that really work for them—a fantastic, finished look in less time.”

Bakir of Jon David Salon says, “Our favorite new product is Schwarzkopf Q10 Technology. It’s an amazing age-reversing product that actually replaces certain hair proteins that we lose over time. Also, the Exfoliate Repair Rescue treatment is great for removing the bad impurities and dead cuticles.” Result: shinier, healthier hair that lasts at least six weeks.

Patrucco of Prima Hair and Day Spa cites Organic Color Systems from London as a preferred product. It “utilizes organic emollients to open the hair cuticle instead of using ammonia—great for clients with allergies to hair color.”

At Dessange, Brazilian Keratin and Collagen Hair Treatment for rejuvenation are said to last up to six months. Cortet says, “Dessange also has a nice, organic hair line called Phytodess based on algaes and clays.” The line is exclusive to the salon, and developed and produced at Dessange’s facility in France.

For Christie-Adam Salon & Spa, “the current vision is keeping our planet green” Daniel says. “We do so with botanical-based products such as Phyto for Hair and Eminence Organic Skin Care.”

The Outlook
Stilettos are making way for designer flats. Classic looks, comfort, fitness, value and kindness to Mother Earth are America’s new watchwords. And stylists are balancing the chic with a levelheaded approach to the needs of their clientele. As usual, Northern Virginia takes the lead.

Tools to Use
What Experts Suggest for Taming the Tresses

Tossing that perfectly coiffed head, you’re ready for anything. Days later you’re glaring at the mirror in frustration. Why is it so hard to recreate that fresh-from-the-salon look? We consulted nine reputable salons for recommendations on styling hard-to-manage locks. Here are their tips for different hair types.

By Renee Sklarew

CURLY
All stylists agree: Work with curly hair, not against it.

To avoid the frizzies, work gel from roots to ends. Elie Gerdak, owner of Elie Elie in Tysons Corner, recommends you ask for referrals when you see a haircut you like. When applying product to curly hair, hold hair, squeeze together, and then work through section by section.

Coarse
LaRissa San Clemente, of Salon Bleu in Tysons Galleria, recommends Kerastase Oleo-Relax shampoo and masque for daily conditioning. Follow with Crème Oleo-Curl. Don’t touch or comb hair when it’s dry, or you’ll break up the curl. She recommends keeping hair shoulder-lengh or longer.

Thick
To keep hair smooth and under control, Chau Bui, from Doubletake Salon in Reston, emphasizes the importance of the right shampoo. She uses Schwarzkopf Bonacure Hairtherapy and follows with Aquage Curl Defining Crème. Gerdack’s cutting technique slices thick curly hair from the inside, taking the weight out.

Fine
Cut hair super short and feminine, or stay with longer lengths, says Ryan Smith of PR at Partners. For frizz prevention, she uses Bumble and Bumble Styling Lotion to maintain bounce. San Clemente advises conditioning just the ends with Kerastase Volumactive, a spray gel with a fine mist.

STRAIGHT
Ronnie Elias Owner Ronnie Hier ADVISES avoiding excessive alcohol in products.

He recommends Bumble and Bumble Brilliantine “to everybody for everything. It’s not heavy and smoothes without flattening.”

Coarse
Glynn Jones, owner of Glynn Jones Salon in Alexandria, specializes in blunt cuts, creating sleek looks like that of Victoria Beckham. He says, “Keep this hair shoulder-length or longer. Shorter layers end up a wild mane.” He likes Pureology and TIGI products.

Thick
Straight hair looks best healthy and glossy, according to PR’s Smith. PR at Partners uses Alojoba shampoo and conditioners to weigh hair down. Follow with Bumble and Bumble Straight, and finish with DeFrizz for sleek looks. Smith says a small amount of these products goes a long way. Style with thickening spray and Bumble and Bumble Grooming Crème.

Fine
Gerdak of Elie Elie says these customers often complain of listless hair. To treat it, she advises conditioning ends only, and notes that short hair doesn’t need conditioner at all. Smith adds volume with Bumble and Bumble Thickening, then blows dry with a round brush. She thinks a mid-length, graduated hair cut is best.
 

WAVY
Emily Shatarski, owner of Cloud Nine Salon in Leesburg, believes in using the right products at the shampoo bowl.

She says trust your professional’s suggestions. “They deal with hundreds of heads and keep up with the latest trends.”

Coarse
A good haircut is the base for good styling, since a big mane with no shape is hard to manage. Robert Harrison, senior stylist at Vidal Sassoon Tysons Galleria, recommends Wella Hyper Curl and a Vess brush—a half brush with ceramic points on it—because it’s very gentle and gives lift without the rolled look. Shatarski advises moisturizing shampoo and a leave-in conditioner with more natural products like aloe-based Eufora.

Thick
Smith of PR says this hair has the best of both worlds and can be easily styled curly or straight. Air dry or invest in a blow-dryer with diffuser attachment. Doubletake’s Bui prefers Aquage Straightening Ultragel for smooth, neat waves. For humid days, Hier says to apply Profound Desert Sand on dry hair and finish with Profound Lock Spray.

Thin
Marijane Star, of Red Door Salon in Reston, predicts big hair is coming back, and stylists are volumizing. Try hot rollers to create waves and big curls. “Put rollers on dry hair, do your makeup, then take them out,” Star suggests. Shatarski likes the salt- water ingredient in Big Sexy Curly for enhancing your natural wave.

AFRO/ETHNIC
Vidal Sassoon’s Harrison says avoid damaging your hair.

Ethnic hair needs a good haircut to keep it healthy.

Natural Curl
Salon Bleu’s San Clemente emphasizes that ethnic hair breaks easily, so don’t use strong relaxers. Star of Red Door Salon likes Match Curling Cream, since “cream-based products are better in humidity. Gels and mousses are water-based, giving hair a hard finish. When water touches it, the product breaks down.”

Smooth and Slick
Star recommends Red Door’s Mezani Anti-Breakage Cream along with Mezani shampoo and conditioner to enhance flexibility. Style with a curling iron or leave au naturale.

Tools for a Good Hair Day:
Ronnie Hier of Ronnie Elias: “The most important thing is communication between the stylist and client. Bring pictures along so we’re talking about the same thing.” In the meantime, below are implements some pros won’t live without.

Cutting Out the Guesswork
A Prudent Approach to Selecting Your Stylist

By Lexi Gray Andrews

No matter how much emphasis you place on the relationship between you and your hair stylist, there are a few basic elements that should be considered before you settle into that comfy salon chair. Your hair stylist should be someone you can depend on to provide a service that meets your expectations—or even exceeds them.

The relationship between stylist and client should be very much a partnership, although most people have had at least one nightmarish experience, such as a stylist who completely disregarded your wishes and left you feeling frustrated.

A few tips from local experts will help you when choosing your next stylist. And if you already have a stylist you love, these tips will help you confirm what you already know—that your partnership with your stylist is worth every penny.

1. Make sure your stylist was trained by a credible school that is accredited by either the National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts & Sciences, or the Accrediting Commission for Career Schools and Colleges of Technology. The salon and stylist should also be in compliance with the state licensing board.

2. Check to see how often your stylist seeks continuing education. Good salons require their stylists to attend regular classes and events to update their skills, says Patricia Green, executive director of Spectrum Beauty Academy in Alexandria.

3. Ask your stylist about the tools of their trade. Many people don’t know that a stylist’s scissors may cost upwards of $400 or more. While your stylist doesn’t have to be spending a fortune on tools, make sure they are using only professional equipment, says Inga Waring, an instructor at the Hair Academy in New Carrollton, Md.

4. Look at your stylist’s portfolio and ask how many long-term clients they have. Knowing a stylist has a dedicated group of clients will provide some peace of mind, says Karen Proctor of Spectrum. Any good stylist will have a portfolio of their past work, which should give you a feel of whether they are a good fit, according to Victoria Lender, of the Hair Academy.

5. The bottom line that is you should feel comfortable. If you feel like your stylist isn’t listening to you, or is trying to sell you products you don’t need, it’s probably time to move on.

(September 2009)