Beautiful Any Time of Year

Winter takes a toll on skin, making it look drab, dry and pale. But Northern Virginia makeup artists say that the right regimen and right makeup application can combat winter’s harsh effects. With their help, we’ll show you how to get flawless-looking skin, as well as explore other trends for winter.

By Jessica Nicholas

Seasonal Skin
“Our skin is seasonal,” explains Suzanne Patterson, an Emmy-award winning makeup artist, based out of Chantilly. “It goes into a relative hibernation in the winter, when its ability to attract and hold moisture is diminished.”

To combat this, Patterson recommends updating your daily facial routine. When picking products, “choose wisely, choose sparingly,” she says. You don’t want to burn out your skin with over-aggressive treatments. After cleansing, she suggests using a non-drying, alcohol-free toner such as 1 Natural Born Cosmetics Bioflavonoid Toner ($4.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com) followed by a rich moisturizer or protective serum, such as 2 Graftobian OxyDerm Moisturizer ($24.99, www.graftobian.com) or 3 Natural Born Cosmetics Anti-Aging Moisturizer ($3.99, www.paintandpowderstore.com).

Always prep your face before makeup application. Start by gently refreshing with a facial wipe, such as Pond’s Wet Cleansing Towelettes in Original Clean ($2.99, drugstores) or 4 MAC Wipes ($18, department stores), both recommended by Victoria Stiles, a Dulles-based makeup artist for television and red carpet. Then exfoliate, says Stiles. She uses 5 ReVersital, a new three-in-one product that cleanses, exfoliates and moisturizes ($90, www.reversital.net).

Especially in drier winter climate, Stiles follows up with a few drops of 6 Hydraskin Intensive Moisturizing Serum from Darphin ($75, www.darphin.com). And depending on the age of her client, Stiles almost always applies an eye cream because it fills in creases where concealer would otherwise accumulate. Try 7 Embryolisse Smoothing Eye Contour Care ($32, www.paintandpowderstore.com).

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Immaculate Complexion
“Too many women think that they have to change their foundation in the winter to add color to their skin, but you’ll end up with an obvious line of demarcation,” says Patterson. Instead, use a shade that matches your skin exactly, and let the color come from lips, cheeks and eyes, she says.

Northern Virginia women can’t seem to get enough of mineral makeup. 1 Bare Escentuals bareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation is the No. 1 selling foundation at Sephora beauty stores in Pentagon City and Tysons Corner ($25, Sephora). It feels barely-there and gives creamy coverage suitable for everyday wear.

For an even more porcelain look, Stiles recommends 2 Face atelier Ultra Foundation, a silicon-based emulsion that sits on top of the face ($42, www.faceatelier.com). To apply liquid makeup, use a foundation brush instead of a sponge, which absorbs some of the product and leaves an uneven finish. Stiles uses 3 billybBEAUTY Paintbrush Two ($30, www.billybbeauty.com). “It applies and blends seamlessly and doesn’t leave streaks,” she says.

For oily skin, set liquid foundation with an oil-absorbing powder. “A sheer setting powder from Natural Born Cosmetics looks cloud white but is completely translucent,” says Stiles (4 Natural Born Cosmetics Oil Control Blotting Powder Compact, $9.95, www.paintandpowderstore.com).

Everyone’s tan fades in the winter, so dousing the whole face with bronzer will look fake. Instead, sparingly brush bronzer upward only on the cheeks. Patterson recommends a more neutral-based bronzer, “nothing overly orange, yellow or gold.” She likes 5 Natural Born Cosmetics Skin Bronzing Fluid “because it is so easy to use and produces natural looking results” ($16, www.paintandpowderstore.com). Another good option is 6 Bare Escentuals Warmth All-Over Face Color ($18, Sephora). This product is very concentrated, so use conservatively.

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Red Turns Up the Heat
“If you’re going to do a color, why not red?” says Stiles. “Red lips will never go out of style; it’s classical Hollywood.” Add rouge to lips and cheeks to turn up the heat and feel instantly glamorous and flirty.

1 M.A.C. Lipstick in Russian Red
This rich-pigment lipstick has blue undertones that flatter winter-pale skin. It will last all night if you fill in your lips first with a red lip liner. ($14, department stores)

2 Chanel Levres Scintillantes Glossimer in Spark Matte
is in this season, but if you’re addicted to shine, try this gloss. It goes on sheer with just a hint of shimmer, so it works for both a workday and night out. ($27, department stores)

3 BeneFit BeneTint
Originally concocted for an exotic dancer in 1977, this rose-colored, rose-scented lip and cheek stain is at once sexy and innocent. Its see-through color gives you a cozy, by-the-fire flush. ($28, department stores)

4 Tarte Natural Beauty Cheek Stain
Stiles recommends this all-natural wax cheek stain that gives long-lasting, buildable berry color. And unlike traditional stains, Tarte’s will not streak, leak or drip. ($30, department stores)

5 Natural Born Cosmetics Velvet Matte Lip Color in Matador Red
“Without a doubt, NBC’s Matador Red is definitely ‘it’ for this winter’s look,” says Patterson. The long-lasting matte color is enriched with emollients including Vitamin E for a creamy texture that covers imperfections. ($6.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

6 Pretty by PR Lip Liner in Rich Red
“Use this for a dramatic, wow red,” says Carla Pressley, a makeup artist for PR at Partners in Tysons Corner. ($12, PR at Partners)

7 Pretty by PR Liquid Lustre in Luscious
“Liquid Lustre has more pigment than regular lip glosses. It’s easy to apply and has collagen spheres to give your pout a little plump without the tingle,” says Bonnie-Love, Pretty by PR makeup director, Metro Center location. ($15, PR at Partners)

Pretty by PR Micro Red Lipstick
“This matte red lipstick will not dry out lips and has great pigmentation,” says Love. ($14, PR at Partners)

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Eighties Pop
“We’re seeing a throwback to the ‘80s with an emphasis on pinks and plums, and blue and green eye shadows. Today, these colors are a little softer and very wearable. Remember to find a color that matches the undertone of your skin,” says Patterson.

When it comes to pops of color, Pressley recommends focusing on one feature. “Instead of playing it safe everywhere—like most Northern Virginia women tend to do—choose one feature you want to pop more than the rest, but don’t drown it out with bright color everywhere. For example, if you’re going with a dark blush, don’t use dark lip color,” she says.

1 Pretty by PR Pulsation Purple Shimmery Shadow
“A hypoallergenic shadow with a soft matte base and a sparkling surface for an exciting, multidimensional effect,” says Love. ($10, PR at Partners)

2 Pretty by PR Fuchsia Pigment
“This is vibrant, pure pink pigment for the lids. You won’t get any brighter than this,” suggests Love. ($18, PR at Partners)

3 Pretty by PR Eggplant Excellent Purple
“This is sheer color with a shimmer finish. Apply wet for a richer luster,” Love says. ($10, PR at Partners)

4 Pretty by PR Admiral Sheer Deep Blue Eye Shadow
“This matte shadow can be used alone for a more sheer look, or on top of a darker shadow for more depth,” says Love. ($10, PR at Partners)

5 bareMinerals Liner Shadow in Coffee Bean
Full, well-groomed brows are in, says Foti. “Use a powder rather than a liner to fill in the brows because it looks more natural.” ($13, Sephora)

6 Natural Born Cosmetics Eye Shadow Quad Palette in green tones
“I absolutely love NBC’s Eye shadow Palette with Dill for the lid, McCreamy as an under-the-brow accent and Ivy as a crease or outer-corner accent. It’s subtle enough for the average woman, yet provides drama by using a layering technique,” says Patterson. ($38.25, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Natural Born Cosmetics Eye Shadow Quad Palette in blue tones
“Blue is a hard color for women to work … But Seafoam and Acqua Blast are colors that will compliment all eyes. Indigo is a great crease or outer-corner accent, and again, McCreamy works for the brow-bone accent,” Patterson advises. ($38.25, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

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Classic Black
Every woman wants to play up her eyelashes, Patterson says. She’s seen a rise in popularity of eyelash extensions, synthetic strands that attach to your own lashes. Lash extensions give you a flirty, wide-eyed look that lasts until the lash holding the extension falls out naturally (about 60 to 90 days). Patterson says the initial procedure takes one to two hours and the costs from $200 to $500, depending on the technician and type of lash. “It makes women feel like a million bucks,” she says. But if the price of lash extensions doesn’t fit your budget, there are other products that accentuate eyes and lashes:

1 L’Oreal Telescopic Explosion Mascara
“The applicator looks like a mini torture device, but you can actually get the small lashes and paint them root to tip. The formula is both lengthening and thickening, but because it’s so rich, you must remove it before bed with eye makeup remover,” says Stiles. ($8.99, drugstores)

2 Bobbi Brown Lash Glamour Lengthening Mascara
If you don’t want to hassle with false eyelashes, this mascara is a worthy substitute. Made with a waterproof formula for dramatic lashes, Lash Glamour lengthens, defines and curls. ($22, department stores)

3 M.A.C. Penultimate Eye Liner
“In one steady stroke, you’ll have sexy cat eyes using this Sharpie-like eye liner. Its liquid formula gives you a bold line in a deep carbon black,” says Pamela Jabonete, a makeup artist for the M.A.C. store in Tysons Galleria. ($16.50, M.A.C.)

4 Pretty by PR at Partners Coal Powder Liner
“It’s great for creating a smoky eye and is softer than traditional liners and has a smudge tip on the opposite end,” says Love. ($14, PR at Partners)

5 Natural Born Cosmetics Volumizing Mascara in Black
This mascara has lash-nourishing Keratin, and brings fullness and length in one step. “I use this for everyday wear, and when I need waterproof mascara, I use NBC Indelible Lashproof Mascara,” says Patterson. ($7.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

6 Ardell Fashion Lashes
“Do false lashes when you go out, whether it’s a dinner function or night out with the girls,” says Pressley. “If you put the lashes on straight out of the box you’ll find that one end always pops off. ‘Slinky’ the lash back and forth so it better fits the contour of your eye,” she says. ($4.39, drugstores)

7 DUO Eyelash Adhesive
Pressley recommends using DUO when applying lashes: “Hold the tube upright, allowing only a small bead of glue to come out of the top. Run your lash end across it, picking up the glue. Let the lashes set for 15 seconds, so the glue gets tacky. Then apply them just above your natural lash line. Put mascara on where the natural meet the false lashes to make it look like they’ve become one.” ($6.26, drugstores)

8 Natural Born Cosmetics Indelible Gel Eyeliner in Blackout
“This stuff doesn’t move even if you’re out swimming all day. It’s very, very black and is great for creating cat eyes,” says Patterson. ($8.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

9 Pretty by PR at Partners Metropolis Triple Split
“This is perfect for the on-the-go woman because it has all three colors in one—a base, contour and highlighter,” says Love. ($15, PR at Partners)

Creating the Smoky Eye
“Smoky eyes are huge for winter,” says Love. Here are her quick tips on creating the look:

1. Start with a clean base. Apply shadow primer to lid. (I like Pretty by PR Shadow Magnet.) Dust with loose powder to set.

2. Apply darkest color from lash line to right below the crease. Pat on color; do not sweep. This will help save product.

3. Apply a highlighter color to crease. With round strokes blend color in to darker color, only at the crease.

4. Line the top and bottom lash with black liner, staying close to lash line. Smudge the liner for an imperfect look. For a sultry look, line the bottom membrane (the skin right above the bottom lashes) with liner as well.

5. Sweep lots of mascara on bottom and top lashes. Wiggle applicator at the base of lashes and sweep out to create more volume.

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In My Bag
We asked Northern Virginia makeup artists what’s in their personal makeup bags.

Carla Pressley
PR at Partners in Tysons Corner

Peter Thomas Roth Oily Problem Skin Instant Mineral SPF 30
“It’s great for retouching your SPF without applying more greasy lotions.” ($30, www.peterthomasroth.com)

Pretty by PR at Partners Vitamin E Stick
“It’s better than a chapstick because it penetrates the lips and keeps them from drying out.” ($15, PR at Partners)

Pretty by PR Pout
“It’s a lip plumper that over time pouts your lips like a treatment. It has a nice taste and leaves your lips super glossy without the stick.” ($29, PR at Partners)

Pretty by PR at Partners Coal Powder Liner
“You never know when you’re going out straight from work and need to step up the drama.” ($14, PR at Partners)

Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Powder
“This is a super lightweight powder that’s excellent for photos. Use whenever you feel shiny, or when you need something to set your foundation.” ($30, Sephora)

Victoria Stiles
Makeup artist for television and red carpet events

Nurturing Force Continuous Roll Blotting Papers
“These sheets come in a case the size of a lipstick. When oil collects midday on my nose, forehead and chin, I grab a small strip from the pack and press it on the shiny areas of my face to remove excess oil.” ($14, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Natural Born Cosmetics Oil Control Blotting Powder Compact
“This powder compact works on all skin tones, although it appears white in the compact. I use it for a quick touchup on my face. The compact has a mirror so it’s great to use for lip touchups as well.” ($9.95, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Lisa Hoffman Spa Facial Lip Moisturizer
“I was sent a sample of this product, and now I am hooked for life! It leaves my lips feeling supple and smooth and gives me a soft, polished look. Typically I will wear a soft smoky eye when I go out, so this moisturizer is great for when I want a quick lip touchup, as it just adds moisture with a bit of shine.” ($24.95, www.lisahoffmanskincare.com)

Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar in Conquest
“This lip color has a cult following among professional makeup artists and is now my No. 1 go-to product for lips. It comes in a squeeze tube, so to apply I dab just a little on my fingertip (trust me, a little really does go a long way!) and then gently press into the pout of my lips for a touch of nude color.” ($12.50, www.occmakeup.com)

Suzanne Patterson
Creative Artistry & FX in Chantilly

Graftobian HD Pro Powder Foundation in Satin Sand
“Nothing outperforms this velvety-soft foundation powder that is like silk on the skin. It does a fantastic job of evening out the complexion with great natural-looking cover.” ($18.99, www.graftobian.com)

Natural Born Cosmetics Automatic Indelible Lip Liner in Heather
“I use it to both line and fill in my lips to make the lip color last longer. I also use it alone on lips with some Eco Lips lip balm over it.” ($9, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Episilk Premium Lip Balm
“Contains proven ingredients that hold the moisture to skin which is so important for dry skin in winter. It keeps my skin smooth. ($6.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Embryolisse Embryoderme Vitamin Cream
“Contains proven ingredients that hold the moisture to skin which is so important for dry skin in winter. It keeps my skin smooth and moisturized without looking heavy or greasy.” ($37, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Gerda Spillmann Bio-Fond Foundation in Praline
“This is a favorite for several famous actresses I have worked with. It gives great natural-looking coverage, which is especially important for older women.” ($49.50, www.paintandpowderstore.com)

Graftobian HD Lip Color Palette in Specialty Shades
“This is my favorite palette for lips because it has a variety of shades that are neutral enough for my skin tone.” ($21.99, www.graftobian.com)

Bonnie-Love
Makeup director of Pretty by PR

Pretty by PR Brow Set
“This is an amazing brow gel that keeps my brows groomed and in place throughout the day.” ($11, PR at Partners)

Pretty by PR Mineral Sheer Tint
“This is my all-time favorite beauty product. It’s a tinted moisturizer that evens out my skin without feeling or looking like a heavy foundation. It’s so light I forget I’m wearing makeup!” ($28, PR at Partners)

Pretty by PR Pout
“Pout is my collagen fix. The collagen spheres make my lips plump, soft and kissable!” ($28, PR at Partners)

Shu Uemura Long Lash Curler
“Nothing works better on my bone-straight lashes.” ($19, www.shuuemura-usa.com)

Pretty by PR Shadow Magnet
“This shadow primer is great for those long days, where my a.m. makeup needs to last through the p.m. It also enhances my shadow color.” ($12, PR at Partners)

(January 2010)