NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Unlike Larry Craig, I don’t socialize in restrooms (much). But several pints of Mad Fox brews later, fate decided this was happening:

Total Stranger (washing hands): How ya doing?

Me (drying hands): Fine. You?

TS (big smile): I’m in a brewpub! Can’t complain!

The childish glee expressed by my clearly extroverted washroom buddy is totally understandable, given the dearth of full-service breweries in the NoVA ‘burbs.

Founder Bill Madden commands a beverage program focused on seasonal drafts, cask-conditioned brews and off-menu specials (just ask). Our favorites include summery IPAs that sting the lips with lemon and tangerine, malty altbiers clothed in chocolate and spice, and pitch-black porters worthy of your local coffeehouse.

Agraria alumnus Russell Cunningham has proven adept at marrying Madden’s bubbling contributions to his comfort food-y carte, injecting beer into the cuisine where possible, all while building in complementary flavor profiles throughout.

Spice-rubbed pork belly wades in a pool of honey-molasses, the fork-tender lobe conveying profound richness while mini spoonbread answers with additional sweet.

House-made brisket smacks of vinegar, black pepper and molasses, the porter barbecue-sauced beef tempered by fresh cucumber.

Piercing the shimmering egg atop a carbonara pie sparks a race to inhale the ham-, onion- and tomato-laden landscape before the glorious yolk dissipates.