NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Is Michel a gustatory game-changer? That remains to be seen.

What we do know is that cheflebrity Michel Richard’s propensity for enchanting guests with edible whimsy and gastronomic wonders remains stronger than ever.

Suit-clad gents and well-coiffed ladies seem to rule this suburban roost. Still, plenty of patrons appear happy to let their hair/guard down when the dessert carte is presented—even at lunch (guess it’s never too early for a Richard-inspired treat).

The kitchen excels at delivering both steak and sizzle—though most meals gleefully tilt toward the things-are-not-necessarily-what-they-seem school of design.

Straight shooters can feast upon gourmet burgers predicated upon from-scratch brioche buns, tomato confit and top-tier proteins (lobster, lamb, beef). Frites are a natural fit. But I’d splurge on Brussels sprouts—mouthwatering greens inundated with two kinds of fat (butter, bacon).

Deconstructionists should enjoy unraveling the inner workings of onion carbonara, featuring piquant, bulb-based noodles tossed with bacon, cream and shaved Parmesan, pasty-clad “porcupine” shrimp replete with phyllo spines and chardonnay-braised bean bedding or eel carpaccio (drizzled in seductive soy-ginger sauce).

Can’t-miss closers include Richard’s signature Kit Kat bars (hazelnut- and powdered cocoa-powerhouse), fetching “snowmen” (ice cream-filled meringue with marzipan accessories) and dazzling, flame-spewing chocolate cakes (party on!).