NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

If America is indeed a grand melting pot, it’s visionaries like Songtham Pinyolaksana who help stir it.

The Thai expat opened Elephant Jumps in Merrifield to zero fanfare, steadily building his clientele with the help of familiar temptations (pad Thai, mango sticky rice) and soothing environs (intricate wood cuttings adorn cream walls, inverted parasols keep light in).

After delving into the compact but comprehensive carte, I’m happy to report that hidden gems abound. Including several dishes others might categorize as fusion, but this hired mouth considers pure fun.

Fried watercress gives the usually mundane green a tempura makeover that wraps each leaf in puffy, fried batter. “That’s the good stuff,” Pinyolaksana assures me as he delivers the mass of what looks like herbaceous funnel cake—though any dessert confusion should be quashed by the arresting, lime-chile dipping sauce that rides shotgun.

The basil burger is a total misnomer, summoning instead shaved steak—smothered in fragrant herbs, minced hot peppers and whole basil leaves—nestled with a toasted croissant. The buttery canvass and zesty payload battle it out in my mouth, transmuting each bite into a tug of war between fire and fat. And I’m only too happy to get caught in the culinary crosshairs.