NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

A no-pressure playground for the wine set, Parallel affords guests the opportunity to sip and swirl to their hearts content without much badgering from the laidback staff.

Because who wants to sweat choosing a relaxing beverage?

Rotating flights boast fairly transparent threads (oysters, Italiano, pinots). The master wine list bops from region to region (Australia, Chile, Washington state), favoring boutique producers (Patagonian cabernet sauvignon, Kenneth Volk Malvasia Bianca, Spanish priorat) while also paying big boys (Cakebread, Barrel 27) and locals (North Gate Vineyard Viognier, Fabbioli Cellars Rose, Winery at La Grange Meritage) their due.

Most of the action, however, takes place at the 32 automated wine dispensers. Printed descriptions are glib (“crisp, citrus”; “velvety, dark”; “cherry, finesse”), but staff use all the tools at their disposal—direct lines of questioning, personal anecdotes and even free samples—to help connect the dots between personal preferences and unknown pours.

BLT crostinis don’t skimp on the bacon, but allow ripe tomatoes, full of juice and spice, to lead the flavor assault (quite the refreshing change).

Seared pork belly may get top billing in the cassoulet. But it was the supporting cast of slow-cooked celery, cannellini beans and leeks that pushed my hand to scrape the bottom of the bowl for more.