NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Playing with expectations is what Da Moim is all about.

An off-the-beaten path respite for those perhaps burned out on tabletop grilling and crowded karaoke jams, the decor here pays tribute to more Anglo-friendly entertainment (The Beatles, Audrey Hepburn, the Rat Pack).

But the menu is where the true artistry lies.

Korean touchstones, from traditional ssam to fiery vegetable stews, abound. The more adventurous, however, can leap headlong into a fusion carnival drawing from Asian, European and Nuevo Latino influences.

Caramelized short ribs invade flour tortillas, commingling there with shredded cheddar, tomatoes and sour cream. I approached these tacos with trepidation; sure the sweet meat and sharp dairy would butt heads, but I found the clash quite complementary. Hot sauce further enhances the experience, with the distilled vinegar and preserved peppers counterbalancing the dulcet beef.

An intercontinental quesadilla weaves together spicy pork, more dairy and caramelized onions, the thin veil of melted cheddar, stir-fried till sugary onions and cooling sour cream working in concert to alleviate the stinging pig.

Double-fried chicken yields crispy bird shrouded in tangy-sweet, ginger-soy sauce. While it’s neither as crunchy nor incendiary as neighboring iterations, it was served, as promised, in under 30 minutes (unheard of at BonChon).