NVM Review

Best of the US II: San Diego Fish Tacos - Honorable Mention

By Warren Rojas

Were we talking shrimp tacos—TP’s version bears near-blackened specimens ensconced in pickled onions and plucky avocado dressing—this would’ve been a no-brainer. But the beer-battered mahi didn’t wow me as much.

By Warren Rojas

For a killer build-your-own seafood combo, pair a Baja fish taco ($3.95)—beer-battered mahi mahi surrounded by pico de gallo and a savory slaw—with a spicetacular shrimp taco ($4.95)—filled with zesty grilled shrimp, shredded cheese, red onions and a squiggle of homemade avocado dressing.

By Warren Rojas

For fiery Mexican in a festive setting, stroll on into a Taqueria Poblano and order up just about anything. The most expensive item on the menu is a spice-rubbed rib eye at $15, whereas most “regular” burritos—chock full of pork, beef, chicken, beans and cheese or grilled vegetables—start at around $6 a pop.

An order of rajas Poblano ($6.95) summons a sizzling mound of grilled onions and peppers covered in cheese and served with warm flour tortillas, perfect for make-your-own vegetarian taco enthusiasts (add the frijoles charros, refried beans with pork, for a heartier handheld treat). Baja fish tacos ($3.95 apiece) come overstuffed with crispy cubes of fried mahi-mahi—so very SoCal—covered in Mexican slaw, pico de gallo, lettuce and a house crema. Duck carnitas ($4.95 apiece) bring tender nuggets of roast duck (uniquely satisfying) sprinkled with shredded onions, pico de gallo, cheese and covered with guacamole. Shrimp tacos ($4.95 apiece) feature about a half dozen grilled shrimp splayed across a tortilla brimming with sliced red onions and more pico de gallo, all covered in a smooth avocado dressing.

Meanwhile, specialty dishes like the Hollenbeck burrito, a brick of shredded beef and chili-soaked pork rolled with beans, cheese, onions and pico de gallo, all covered in trio of crema, fresh guacamole and a tomatoey ranchera salsa, and crispy crab tacos, pop up daily. You can up the ante on any dish by applying the two homemade hot sauces that adorn each table—a zesty red picante sauce (thin, but has some decent heat) and a tasty green chile sauce (all bark, no bite)—with reckless abandon.

When you’re ready too cool your heels, dive into the chocolate fritters ($4.95), sugary dough balls with a dense center of creamy chocolate, flanked by twin scoops of buttery vanilla ice cream.