NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

This Persian kabob haven absolutely skewers the competition. Chelo Kabob Kubideh ($8.74) wants not for spiced beef, egg-soaked rice—the burnt sections are best—or potent homemade hot sauce (dig that stinging heat). The mahi kabob ($12.99) unleashes roast salmon medallions surrounded by saffron- and dill-laced rice and enough piquant onions to keep curious co-workers at bay till quitting time.

By Warren Rojas

The chelo kabob kubideh with egg ($8.74) is a multisensory affair bolstered by juicy strips of char-grilled ground beef, a brassy shingle of burnt rice (provides a pleasing crunch) and the searing bliss of a homemade green chili sauce.

By Warren Rojas

Persian cuisine, done properly, challenges the senses. Spice-infused yogurts and fragrant herbs appear in beverages, accent salads or serve as individual attractions. Aromatic rice can complement a meal or be quickly transformed into a standalone delicacy with the addition of something as simple as a raw egg or a handful of sour cherries. And the same open flame can be used to char-grill all manner of fish, fowl and beast with distinctly different results. These subtle nuances and more all come into play at Shamshiry, a McLean fixture known for its flame-kissed meats and dulcet treats.

This tiny restaurant on the ground floor of an office suite in the Tysons Corner area appears to do most of its business by supplying carry-out orders to the surrounding corporate clientele. Inside, chatty families and groups of friends greet each other with warm hugs, suggesting that this is where native Persians gather for a taste of home.

Value-seekers, take note: Nothing on the menu is over $15. Many entrées fall below the $10 mark, while every appetizer and the vegetarian dishes are a steal at less than $5 a piece.

A ration of the panir sabzi brings a firm square of salty goat cheese accompanied by a host of raw vegetables ranging from crisp radishes to refreshing mounds of fresh mint. The mast-o khiar is an all-purpose blend of yogurt, dill and other chopped vegetables which adds a cool burst to warm pita squares, handfuls of leafy vegetables or any of the wonderfully grilled entrees. The chelo kabob kubideh features a spongy strip of juicy ground beef unlike any hamburger you’ve ever tasted. For a slightly firmer touch, try the chelo kabob barg—the Persian take on filet mignon produces a truly tender loin of beef that comes apart with just a touch of your fork. The amazing mahi kabob delivers a tremendous amount of grilled salmon adeptly seared on the outside, but still flaky and moist on the inside. The salmon also comes with a mound of rice pregnant with pungent herbs and loaded with dried beans. For a little added heat, swab any of the kabobs—Cornish game hen and two types of chicken are also offered—with a dab of the green chile sauce servers bring to every table (works particularly well when juxtaposed against any leftover yogurt sauce).