(May 2006)

By Warren Rojas

Although not quite visible from Wilson Boulevard, you can smell the aroma of fragrant curries and spice-laden stews emanating from the Delhi Dhaba kitchen as you walk up the alley to the restaurant. Perhaps best known for its cafeteria-style service and sumptuous Indian cuisine, this Arlington mainstay is all about fast, flavorful food.

The seafood Tandoor appears to be the most expensive item on the menu at $12.95, while a host of delicious lamb, chicken, and goat specialty dishes can be had for less than $10. The restaurant also offers about two dozen vegetarian dishes, including rich stews of cheese and tomatoes (shaki paneer), okra, peppers and onions (bhindi masala) and mixed vegetables (vegetable jalfrezy), each day all for under $8.

The standard roti, whole wheat flat bread, and naan, flour flat bread, are pizza-sized servings baked in clay ovens. The roti is light, but sturdy enough to sop up all the delicious curry sauces while the naan has visible spices, like fresh garlic, baked right in. Vegetable samosas ($2.50) turn out to be bulbous pastry pockets filled with a fragrant mash of beans, potatoes, peas, onions and nuts; the dense filling is surprisingly moist, while the samosas themselves are typically served piping hot. An order of lamb Vandalu ($9.95) produces tender pieces of lamb and roasted potatoes in a scorching tomato sauce (excellent heat). A signature goat special ($8.95) comes with a super savory stew and plenty of succulent goat meat (just watch out for the abundant bones). Meanwhile, another daily special brings hunks of white meat chicken in a soothing mint sauce.

Most daily lunch specials include a generous helping of any two entrees with basmati rice for $4.95 or a Hungry Man® -sized meal featuring three entrees with your choice of basmati rice, fresh naan or roti and a drink for $6.95. The restaurant also has an all-you-can-eat buffet brunch featuring many of its greatest hits for just $8.95 on Sundays.