NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

It seems almost surreal that one would have to duck back into a Herndon business park for a bite of authentic Jamaican cooking. Then again, this sun-splashed island nation also has a world-famous bobsledding team …

Jamaican ex-pats Lloyd and Simone Washington founded their homey eatery a few years back and have watched their local fan base grow steadily ever since. Between the amazingly affordable prices (nothing is over $9) and generous array of hard-to-find Caribbean favorites (expect a daily array of chicken, oxtail and seafood selections), it’s easy to see why.

Hearty oxtail stew—a clear favorite, given the propensity for it to sell out on busy nights—reveals bulbous nuggets of tender beef (watch the bones) soaked through with spices; accompanying rice and vegetables provide a starchy base for the protein-packed brew. Goat stew summons a melange of curried meat (downright succulent) and vegetables guaranteed to get your heart rate pumping, especially after adding a few drops of the house “beware” sauce (expect a flash of heat, followed by enduring warmth).

As expected, the jerk chicken (the spicy-sweet zing is da ‘ting) remains head and shoulders above their traditional barbecue chicken (decent, but others certainly do it better). Meanwhile, the beef-, chicken- and newly available cheese-filled patties—baked cornmeal pastries brought in from back home—provide a terrific, hand-held alternative for those who tend to eat on the run.

By Warren Rojas

Say what you will about the suburbs, but some of the most original restaurants keep popping up in the most unlikely places. Take, for instance, Jamaica Jamaica, a lively Caribbean hideaway with plenty of heart, tragically buried in the back of a Herndon industrial park.

The tiny restaurant features just a handful of tables opposite a main counter (there is now additional seating in an upstairs dining room). But the place is always filled with the sounds of reggae interlaced with fast-flying neighborhood gossip, while the air is always full of rich flavors wafting in from the kitchen.

Nothing on the straightforward menu is over $9, which means it’s all a steal. Daily offerings include jerk chicken, stewed chicken, oxtail, curry chicken, baked or barbecue chicken, curry goat and pepper shrimp. Sides include homemade beef or chicken patties (flaky cornmeal pastries; about $1.50 apiece), rice with beans, dumplings (typically brought out later in the afternoon), codfish fritters, jerk chicken wings and tropical ice creams.

Jerk chicken is lavish, yielding a juicy bird that delivers alternating bites of cinnamon and cayenne in near perfect balance. Stew chicken is equally flavorful, though saffron does the heavy lifting here. Oxtail is extra savory, albeit a bony endeavor (there are plenty of bones in just about every dish, so watch out). The already powerful dishes can be customized with a number of homemade hot sauces, a battery of fire-breathing creations that includes the potent “hottest” blend (a deep red salsa, with plenty of spices) and the scorching “beware” sauce (provides rolling heat that travels all the way down your throat). A standard rice and peas mix does a decent job of absorbing the rich stews, while a shredded salad is refreshing but mostly unnecessary.

And while great food is clearly the focal point, the Jamaica Jamaica owners also want to build a sense of community. During a recent visit, that outreach included trying to organize a regular game of dominos every Friday night at 7 p.m.