NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

The polished interior at the newly revamped Amma Vegetarian Kitchen in Vienna is all about modernist minimalism. The menu, however, remains firmly committed to the rich curries and piquant chutneys of South Indian-style cooking.

A well-known vegetarian outpost, Amma recently got a much needed face-lift. An updated menu now hangs behind the main counter and vibrating coasters keep the self-service operation running smoothly. Meanwhile, soothing Indian tunes increase your mellow while walls splashed with autumnal greens and oranges keep things earth-friendly.

Black lentil doughnuts (vada) served with a chunky vegetable broth and homemade relish (sambar and chutney, respectively) are naturally spicy but ultimately mostly dough. The plain-sounding cutlet summons perfumed potato and mixed vegetable fritters served with a spicy homemade sauce. Chappathi potato bhaji yields whole wheat patties waiting to be filled with a savory potato stew. Rava paneer dosa brings a sizeable lentil pancake filled with spicy shredded cheese. Likewise, an onion chili masala dosa brings a massive rice crêpe overflowing with a thrilling combination of curried potatoes, chopped red onions and diced chili peppers (the hot peppers are quite exhilarating), all accompanied by a delightful sambar packed with carrots, onions and herbs.