(October 2006)

By Warren Rojas

Heralded by many as the gold standard for vegetarian and vegan dining in the area, Sunflower Vegetarian Restaurant dazzles customers with a strictly vegetable lineup daring enough to fool even devout meat-eaters.

Visitors to this suburban eco-sanctuary are greeted by staff wearing T-shirts declaring that it’s “good to be a vegetarian.” The tightly knit dining room hosts everyone from health-conscious professionals relaxing over an herbal tea to committed vegans looking for their next protein fix.

The popular fried “chicken” nuggets—taste just like the real thing, if not better—are actually tender bites of compressed mushrooms and soy protein served with a spicy homemade sauce. An order of the steamed moo shu rolls reveals mushrooms, carrots and shredded cabbage wrapped in a spongy wonton skin. Inari sushi delivers an inverted canoe of fried tofu filled with sushi rice (works great with a splash of soy sauce). Popeye’s favorite summons twin potato and spinach patties draped in a firm black pepper sauce (quite filling). Curry paradise summons chunks of soy protein cooked with broccoli, zucchini and tomato in a piquant curry sauce, all served over penne noodles. Meanwhile, the titular Sunflower’s satisfaction soaks more soy protein in a semi-spicy glaze (could pass for beef, no problem).