NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Pop quiz: Name a place where it’s perfectly acceptable to hit a hookah and then gorge yourself with bite-sized munchies. If “my college dorm room” was the best you could come up with, it might be time for a trip down to Gua-Rapo in Arlington—a late-night perch for somewhat more sophisticated night-owls.

The Western-most branch of Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld’s Latin Concepts empire, Gua-Rapo is a natural conduit for instant closeness. Tables are packed so tightly, you might literally rub elbows with your neighbor. And the infectious grooves laid down by the steady stream of live performers (local acts appear every night except Sundays) can keep the dancing masses shoulder-to-shoulder well into the wee hours of the morning.

Cocktail junkies looking to unwind with something a little different should try the namesake drink—the Guarapo, a blend of sugar cane syrup cut with vodka and lime, and then mixed with exotic fruits like guayaba (smooth) or durazno (beyond peachy). The sangria verde is another crowd pleaser (melding a crisp, white wine with ample parts Champagne, tequila and fruit juice) that’s way too easy to drink—and often difficult to refuse. Those familiar with communal smoking etiquette—puff-puff-give, remember?—can indulge in a vast array of mellow, fruit-spiked tobaccos, which staff will happily load into one of the house water pipes ($18 an hour to rent).

Portions are perfectly sized for sharing and a wonderfully diverse menu makes it easy to try a little bit of everything. The arepa de carne con aji—a grilled corn-meal patty stuffed with succulently braised steak and homemade chimichurri (basically a Latin pesto sauce)—is plenty for two or even three people. Feeling worldly? Then dive into the ceviche de mejilliones—an international masterpiece uniting plump New Zealand mussels with citrus-soaked peppers and onions, and served cold in traditional Andean fashion. Seafood lovers should also enjoy the tortilla del mar, a sizable puff pastry (made from lightly whipped potatoes) which hides an herb-infused salmon filet within. Meanwhile, bigger appetites should easily be satiated by the cerdo a la parrilla—a hearty dish laden with juicy slices of char-grilled pork, fried plantains and accompanied by a delectable lentil mash.