NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

In terms of enduring popularity, the Great American Restaurant group could easily change its name to “Guaranteed Afternoon Revenue” without missing a beat.

The powerhouse dining chain seems to have a restaurant for just about every occasion, including the multiplying Sweetwater Tavern microbreweries (currently in Centreville, Falls Church and Sterling). According to GAR head brewer Nick Funnell, each Sweetwater Tavern always has at least five beers on tap—including a light (Naked River Low Carb Light is slightly bitter, yet still refreshing), a pale ale (Great American Pale Ale delivers rich fruity flavor) and three seasonal drafts (Pale Face Wheat has a bright banana glow and a pinch of spice, while the Giddy Up Stout could give Starbucks a run for its money).

Funnell said at full capacity, each restaurant could produce roughly 3,000 barrels, but notes that due to the variety of beers and the disparate brewing times for each—from two weeks for the ales to eight weeks for others—they average about 1,400 barrels annually. He listed the Great American Restaurants Octoberfest (set for release in September), Ghost Town Pumpkin Ale (poised for a mid-October debut) and High Desert Imperial Stout as big-ticket specialty brews. Meanwhile, their Wits End Ale (silver), Wild West Fest Lager (bronze) and Iron Horse Lager (bronze) were all big winners at the 2006 Great American Beer Festival.

Heavy-duty snackers enjoy fried tortillas filled with chicken, corn and beans, all accompanied by creamy guacamole. A grilled chicken and havarti sandwich plies the snappy duo with fresh basil, vinaigrette and buttery icebox bread. The ale-soaked drunken rib eye summons a terrifically marbled cut of beef—chargrilled steak is melt-in-your-mouth good, with a pleasantly salty-caramelized veneer and big, beefy flavor in every bite—flanked by a fully loaded baked potato and a mound of sauteed mushrooms.