NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

When night falls so do M&S’s prices, particularly the bar’s fun and filling finger foods (all under $5). Many locations follow a similar program—ahi tuna bites (well wasabied), Buffalo wings (fiery), sliders—but Reston’s grill ups the ante with brilliant pot roast creations (unctuous beef joins sauteed peppers and onions in tacos; same meat, roasted corn and pico perk up nachos)

By Warren Rojas

A pioneer in the field of seafood fine-dining that has spawned a legion of imitators since, McCormick & Schmick’s’ focus on quality, variety and freshness still leaves us reeling.

Whereas the chummier M&S Grills are perfect for a low-key meal with friends or family, the omnipresent bank of semi-private booths, hardwood everything, and polished brass handrails give the flagship restaurants that classic, power-spot feel that is so coveted by the inside-the-Beltway crowd.

That attention to detail spills over onto the menu, which often changes between lunch and dinner—the restaurant prides itself on carrying nearly three dozen different seafood varieties, none of which are ever frozen—and typically includes no less than a dozen seafood specialties, plus a full battery of traditional pasta and grilled seafood-bearing items.

A portion of rainbow trout reveals a monster, maple-glazed filet that smacks of sweet smoke and butter, and is covered with an almost candy-like apple chutney (thrilling). A handmade, albacore tuna cake takes a Pan-Asian turn when paired with a snappy teriyaki dipping sauce, a mound of sticky rice and steamed vegetables (unexpected, yet much appreciated). Another evening, Fijian yellowfin tuna emerges as tender nuggets of lightly grilled fish drizzled with a spicy-sweet, mustard-teriyaki blend (fantastic).

Meanwhile, keep an eye on the always changing array of fresh oysters flown in from as far away as Nova Scotia and as close as Chincoteague. And if you see the Carlsbad Blondes from California, shell out the extra clams and enjoy the amazingly robust flavor.