NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Hard to say where on his ethereal continuum Dante Alighieri might place Paradiso’s daunting brunch spread. One could argue that the banquet of rich foods and tempting desserts are meant to test the will of man. Conversely, the steady stream of complimentary Mimosas and added convenience of a supervised playroom—an understated amenity that allows both child and parent to enjoy breakfast on their own terms—could be seen as a reward for day-to-day sacrifice.

Let the theologians bicker. You are here to eat.

The entire bar/lounge area is converted into a caloric wonderland of Italian delights and breakfast standards. Eggy French toast slices are flanked by an elaborate array of otherworldy toppings like real maple or brandy syrup, whipped cream, powdered sugar and assorted fruit. Antipasto creations (tortellini and black olives, artichokes-olives-mozzarella salad) jumpstart the appetite. Cheese ravioli in a spinach-asparagus-peas cream sauce proves pasta need not be flashy to fully satisfy. Homemade beef Marsala submerges wonderfully tender medallions in a seductive wine sauce studded with mushrooms. Sugary closers include a lacy red velvet cake and a make-your-own sundae area stocked with vanilla ice cream, a cauldron of bubbling hot fudge, and sides of chocolate chips and rainbow jimmies.