NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Those who long to jumpstart their day with a hint of sabor Latino should blow into the Caribbean Breeze brunch, a global buffet melding traditional morning starters (eggs, waffles) with international favorites (made-to-order quesadillas).

Inside the sunny, pastel-laden dining area, a live jazz combo lays down a mellow groove. Jovial bartenders stand at the ready to whip up any number of festive fruit cocktails (rum and tequila figures prominently in just about everything) to brighten your mood. Or for $5 more, you can tack on unlimited Mimosas to your meal.

Just make sure to leave enough room for the main event.

Hand-carved slices of spice-rubbed lechon—a roast suckling pig dish that typically only graces Latin tables during the holidays or at special occasions—is divine, particularly when finished off with a splash of pineapple salsa. Tender chunks of charbroiled chicken shine beneath a sheen of homemade chimichurri. Crispy chicken empanadas are fantastic; the shredded chicken works equally well in the salsa-soaked enchiladas. Ropa vieja yields a hearty mass of shredded flank steak, sliced peppers and onions, all steeped in tomato sauce. Tortellini is smothered in broth of savory ground beef and stewed tomatoes (Irie!).

Miami Cuban Sandwich – Honorable Mention

By Warren Rojas

In terms of size and presentation, the Cuban at Caribbean Breeze is quite a sight to behold. The generous sandwich boasts plenty of shaved ham and some delightful, paper-thin pickle slices, but alas, falls a bit short in the all-important roast pork department.

By Warren Rojas

Nothing like salsa beats and island treats to turn a ho-hum evening into something special, a duty the Caribbean Breeze in Ballston embraces whole-heartedly. But be warned: Anyone looking to capture the devil-may-care attitude projected by this local hotspot needs to be willing to come early and should be prepared to stay late.

The restaurant is big on splashy colors (electric-blue and lemon-yellow artworks punctuate fiery, orange walls) and funky décor (woven-backed chairs abound; thatched bamboo placemats adorn every table). The trendsetting clientele—patrons look like they’ve been air-lifted in directly from South Beach—convey an air of both urban chic and tropical flair. But unlike most downtown clubs, the Latin rhythms radiating from the horseshoe-shaped bar ensure that toes will be tapping throughout the restaurant without drowning out those just looking to catch up with friends. And nightly happy hour specials (drink deals run from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.) help make the already bumping bar scene a standing-room only affair—not that anyone seems to mind after a few drinks.

Luckily, the spirits flow freely at the Breeze. Frozen-drink lovers can indulge in a maddeningly sweet Bahamian Batido that marries Mount Gay rum, Melon Liquor and Grand Marnier with passion fruit and evaporated milk. For those who deem Mojitos to be too girly, there’s the Caipirinha—a potent cocktail powered by liquor pressed from unrefined sugarcane (known as “Cachaca” or “Aguardente” in its native Brazil) and then cut with even more sugar and fresh lime juice.

Need something to nibble on? Try the signature alcapurrias, a Puerto Rican staple consisting of flash-fried green bananas stuffed with spicy ground beef—cumin, minced chilies and diced onions were the clear standouts—which is sure to satisfy. Or order up the finger-food triple-threat that is the cesta de empanadas—a collection of flaky turnovers filled with marinated chicken (good), shredded Cuban flank steak (better) and a soupy seafood blend (best), all served with a tangy jalapeno salsa. Should subtlety be more your speed, the Jamaican jerk chicken quesadilla—decked out with fresh goat cheese and roasted tomatoes—provides an interesting take on a Tex-Mex favorite.