NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.5 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 5.6

“This is my place!” the proud local boomed, positing that he’d eaten at Bazin’s every night since opening (2006) and recommending I try the signature White Russian bearing his name.

I hope “Charlie” gets better service than the rest of us—because our most recent visits have been marred by unsettling gaffes.

Servers faltered at the tables (reported back on missing ingredients 15 minutes after we’d ordered, sloshed wines into glasses like so much dishwater) and bar (simple two-course meal spiraled into a nearly two-hour ordeal).

Good thing chef/owner Patrick Bazin still appears to be on his game.

Fried corn is piled high with shredded savoy cabbage (needed more spice) and shredded pork in a respectable pupusa knockoff.

Grilled portabellos smeared with pungent goat cheese add muscle to a delicately balanced mix of bitter greens and juicy tomatoes (fresh and vibrant).

Minced porcinis bake to a blackened crisp astride succulent rockfish escorted by parmesan risotto (enrobes the palate in silkiness) and wilted spinach.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8 Ambiance: 7.7 Service: 7.2

While fishing for suggestions at Bazin’s, a bartender offhandedly shared that many regulars have taken to swapping largish appetizers for traditional entrees.

Sure enough, when I glanced around in search of visual stimulation, a nearby gentleman snatched a plate of herb-crusted lamb “lollipops” from his partner, passed it over and playfully asked, “Look good?”

Chef/owner Patrick Bazin would be wise to add the unexpected cheerleader to the payroll.

One of the cornerstones of Vienna’s Church Street revitalization, Bazin’s has evolved into a neighborhood go-to for local families and food fans from all around. The vibe remains solidly casual (regulars arrive in T-shirts and jeans, the original cork-bound menus have been replaced by foldable paper guides), though the menu continues to flirt with the fanciful.

A signature crab-and-avocado salad melds savory meat, buttery avocado and tangy citrus juice into summer’s last stand. Flatiron steak wants not for savory au jus, gives easily with each knife stroke and delivers plenty of beefy goodness in every bite. Crisp red snapper is buoyed by a bacon-studded clam sauce.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8.7 Ambiance: 7.8 Service: 7.3

The buzz on Bazin’s continues to grow. And with good reason.

Partners Patrick and Julie Bazin have upped the ante on neighborhood dining with a come-as-you-are establishment that seems to appeal to everyone from graying expense account holders to penny-pinching 20-somethings out for a little pampering.

The plasma TV above the handsomely outfitted bar remains religiously tuned to the Food Network. (Catering to the crowd or the ultimate in subliminal programming? You decide.) Brick walls, exposed rafters and glossy wood tables communicate a basic but contemporary feel. Servers dutifully patrol the main dining room, but never rush the cadre of businessmen who seem to linger beyond their allotted lunch hours to squeeze in one of the astounding desserts.

A gourmet quesadilla replaces traditional Tex-Mex style fillings with shredded duck, flanking the barbecue bird with a smoky chipotle cream sauce and zesty salsa fresca. Citrus oil-spritzed asparagus come accompanied by a delightful fried goat cheese fritter (savory coin helps buffer the acidic dressing). A warming beef stroganoff unites tender steak, onions and mushrooms with sour cream-soaked spaetzle (well done). Salmon goes southern atop stone-ground grits finished in a marvelous shrimp-tasso sauce. Assorted chocolate and seasonal fruit creations keep dessert lovers happy.

The comprehensive wine list boasts plenty by-the-glass options from well-respected regions. Bottles start at $25 for a 2005 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc.

Best New Suburban Sophisticate

By Warren Rojas

Dining at Bazin's may not yet qualify as a religious experience. But the thoughtful selections and artful execution at this culinary temple does provide patrons plenty to be thankful for.

The first solo venture for ex-Occidental chef Patrick Bazin and his wife/general manager, Julie, has rapidly become a familiar destination for local gourmands who prefer to dine locally rather than trek downtown. The fairly diverse menu features about a dozen appetizers, another dozen specialty plates and almost as many tempting desserts. During a moment of pause, one waiter suggests, "Everything is very good. Don't hesitate."

And he's mostly right.

Crispy oysters arrive arranged in decorative clamshells only to be topped with a dreamy creamed spinach and country ham mix. Goat cheese profiteroles pack a savory punch, while the corresponding diced beet and walnut salad offers a refreshing crunch. In a brilliant twist on traditional bar fare, jumbo shrimp that have been breaded, fried and coated in a fiery hot sauce (the main event) are lowered into a bed of blue cheese risotto (the dip) decorated with a celery salad (the side). An Iowa pork chop is as big as the Midwest but occasionally emerges as dry as the Dust Bowl. Luckily, the accompanying sweet potato mash (dosed with vanilla) always comes to the rescue.

For dessert, look no further than the chocoriffic Michel's-as in the genius over at Citronelle-chocolate hazelnut crunch bars (bathed in chocolate and caramel) or the peanut butter tart (a heavenly blend of peanut butter, chocolate and ice cream).