food&wine RESTAURANT SCOUT

Ashby Inn

692 Federal St.
Paris, VA 20130
540-592-3900
www.ashbyinn.com

CUISINE International, Modern American

PRICE $$$$ (Over $31)

HOURS Open for lunch Wednesday through Saturday, dinner Wednesday through Sunday, brunch Sunday.

DELIVERY No

TAKEOUT No

NVM AWARDS Best Restaurant 2012
Best Restaurant 2010
Best Restaurant 2011

NEARBY METRO None

SPECIAL FEATURES

Accepts Credit Cards
Great View
Reservations
Dinner
Brunch
Lunch



Write a Review

NVM Review

(November 2010)

By Warren Rojas

“Is that FOOD?” a fellow diner marveled after being confronted with a MoMA- quality confection fashioned from dark chocolate and marshmallow foam.

Welcome to the gastronomic equivalent of Shock and Awe.

Executive chef Tarver King wasted little time revitalizing the menu after arriving last fall.

“When we got here everything was Sysco, microwave, boil-in-a-bag,” the locavore-minded toque informed a regular who copped to straying for a few years after suffering through middling food and robotic treatment.

Methinks his wandering days are over.

Chicken-fried steak, its deep-set, breadcrumb-y crags flush with satiny yolk from an accompanying farm egg, is lavished with bacon fat-laced hollandaise and pickled celery.

Cumin- and coriander-rubbed pork effectively melts into a mélange of zesty beans, crispy spinach and softened leeks.

Pound cake smothered in salt-studded ice cream and cacao nibs left an indelible mark. “That salted chocolate is all I can taste,” one companion gushed.

(November 2010)

By Warren Rojas

“Is that FOOD?” a fellow diner marveled after being confronted with a MoMA- quality confection fashioned from dark chocolate and marshmallow foam.

Welcome to the gastronomic equivalent of Shock and Awe.

Executive chef Tarver King wasted little time revitalizing the menu after arriving last fall.

“When we got here everything was Sysco, microwave, boil-in-a-bag,” the locavore-minded toque informed a regular who copped to straying for a few years after suffering through middling food and robotic treatment.

Methinks his wandering days are over.

Chicken-fried steak, its deep-set, breadcrumb-y crags flush with satiny yolk from an accompanying farm egg, is lavished with bacon fat-laced hollandaise and pickled celery.

Cumin- and coriander-rubbed pork effectively melts into a mélange of zesty beans, crispy spinach and softened leeks.

Pound cake smothered in salt-studded ice cream and cacao nibs left an indelible mark. “That salted chocolate is all I can taste,” one companion gushed.

(November 2010)

By Warren Rojas

Food: 9.4 Ambience: 8.7 Service: 8.9

“Is that FOOD?” a fellow diner marveled after being confronted with a MoMA- quality confection fashioned from dark chocolate and marshmallow foam.

Welcome to the gastronomic equivalent of Shock and Awe.

Executive chef Tarver King wasted little time revitalizing the menu after arriving last fall.

“When we got here everything was Sysco, microwave, boil-in-a-bag,” the locavore-minded toque informed a regular who copped to straying for a few years after suffering through middling food and robotic treatment.

Methinks his wandering days are over.

Chicken-fried steak, its deep-set, breadcrumb-y crags flush with satiny yolk from an accompanying farm egg, is lavished with bacon fat-laced hollandaise and pickled celery.

Cumin- and coriander-rubbed pork effectively melts into a mélange of zesty beans, crispy spinach and softened leeks.

Pound cake smothered in salt-studded ice cream and cacao nibs left an indelible mark. “That salted chocolate is all I can taste,” one companion gushed.

(March 2006)

By Warren Rojas

Nothing quite like stealing away to Paris for the weekend. Feasting on gourmet foods. Hobnobbing with Hollywood royalty. And, of course, sampling the finest regional wines Virginia’s hunt country has to offer.

Granted, no one is going to mistake this sleepy hamlet nestled in the shadows of the Blue Ridge Mountains for the fabled “city of light.” But visitors continue trekking out to the wilds of western Virginia to experience the gourmet cuisine and incredible hospitality that has long been the hallmark of the Ashby Inn & Restaurant. The main house sits at the lone dogleg in Paris (Route 701 literally dead ends at the edge of this blink-and-you’ll miss-it sized town), comfortably boxed-in by Civil War-era stone embankments on one side and rows of white picket fences on the other.

Restaurant patrons can choose from four main dining areas: The sweeping downstairs dining room (appointed with lacquered hardwoods, a roaring fireplace, and lined with plenty of tables and booths), the more private, upstairs dining room (a tight, but well-decorated hideaway), the mid-level dining room (featuring just a handful of booths) or the enclosed porch area (another handful of tables, but with a pretty view of the adjoining gardens). No matter where you sit, take some time to admire the commemorative nameplates tacked up throughout the restaurant—sentimental tokens awarded by staff to those dedicated guests who have been patronizing the restaurant for several years (Academy Award ® winner Robert Duvall’s favorite booth is rumored to be downstairs).

Unlike the semi-permanent plaques above each booth, the restaurant menu changes daily. But that variety in no way hampers the consistently superb creations coming from the kitchen.

One recent visit began with an oven-fresh, roasted red pepper focaccia (an oily delight) that was as warming as a lazy afternoon by the fire. An order of roast quail summons twin quarters of meaty, herby game fortified by a very zippy and fragrant spinach espuma. A roasted portobello comes layered with wilted leeks, roasted Roma tomatoes and ripe Gorgonzola, delivering a vegetarian bounty in each spongy bite. Conversely, a Black Angus rib eye yields a healthy 14-ounce slab of beef bolstered by a mound of redskin mashed potatoes and fresh green beans tossed with roasted shallots (the restaurant’s signature haricot vert), all bathed au jus. Likewise, a grilled mahi mahi comes draped with a charming pineapple relish and is further propped up by an earthy curry rice combination. If it’s well-dressed starches you crave, the kitchen can oblige with a number of sumptuous side dishes—including an über-creamy helping of white truffle macaroni and cheese, buttermilk onion rings, garlic mashed potatoes or the grown-up sounding potato ribbons (Think: fancy potato sticks)—all well worth the extra calories.

Amazingly, a gourmet dinner for two at this country retreat can easily be had for just under $100. Just don’t go a hootin’ and a hollerin’ when the check comes, lest you violate the overarching rule displayed on the worn sign leading up the main stairs: “Please tread softly. Guests asleep upstairs.”

Restaurant Scout