NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Who says fast-casual cuisine can’t be forward thinking?

Certainly not Chipotle regional director Phil Petrilli.

According to Petrilli, Chipotle has remained on the vanguard of sustainable dining ever since Steve Ells, who graduated from Culinary Institute of America, opened his first burrito shop in 1993—largely because of Ells’ “food with integrity” mantra.

That vision includes purchasing and serving only humanely raised (no confinement), hormone/antibiotic-free animals that have been fed an all-vegetarian diet.

“This is not something that we jumped on a bandwagon,” Petrilli insisted. “We are leaders in this.”

Sure enough, Chipotle purchased over 52 million pounds of naturally raised meats from all across the country in 2008, tapping nationwide providers like Niman Ranch (pork), Bell & Evans (chicken) and Meyer Natural Angus (beef), as well local suppliers like Polyface Farm (pork) and Parker Farms (jalapenos, bell peppers).

Petrilli said he helped broker the Charlottesville-Polyface deal after participating in Polyface founder Joel Salatin’s buying clubs.

“I’m a staunch believer of what he represents for food systems,” Petrilli said of Salatin’s holistic approach to land-animal management.

So far, a single Charlottesville store purchases around 300 pounds of pork (10 to 12 hogs) from Polyface per week—often to the detriment of Salatin’s individual clients. “I haven’t been able to get a pork shoulder from Joel for the past six months because Chipotle buys up everything he’s got,” he said, adding that negotiations are already underway to see about adding Polyface free-range beef to the next phase of the project.

“Hopefully, what we’re creating is a model for other businesses and family farms to follow,” he said of the mutually beneficial farm-to-restaurant arrangement they brokered down in the Shenandoah Valley.

According to Petrilli, Chipotle is determined to serve 100-percent naturally raised meats at its more than 800 locations. So far, they’ve managed to make all their chicken and pork offerings naturally raised across the country, with beef hovering around the 50-percent mark and organic beans bring up the rear at around 30 percent. Along those lines, the company pledged in 2008 to purchase at least 25 percent of at least one local produce item from small- and mid-sized farms in each region, with that amount set to rise moving forward.

Not that they draw the line at what goes on your plate.

Petrilli said new stores recycle as much building material as possible, stressing that the interior is always made with recycled everything (glass, brick, steel). Menus proudly tout their acid-free, 100-percent post-consumer waste pedigree. Recycling caddies are affixed wherever possible—though a Chipotle spokesperson stated that landlords often broker different waste-management contracts, which can limit recycling opportunities.

“We are constantly testing every manner of green products and practices,” the spokesperson said of their uphill battle to make the most of everyday waste. “It is a process.”

But in the end, it’s really all about the food.

Red tomatillo salsa delivers a respectable amount of heat, revealing a mixture of pureed tomatoes, hot peppers, garlic and cumin (kinda sticks ya at the end) that is saucy without being runny.

As promised, I can actually taste the individual ingredients of a bulging carnitas burrito (firm grains of herb-laced white rice, chilly-smooth sour cream, carefully shredded, well-seasoned roast pork, buttery-rich homemade guacamole, zesty snippets of corn, onion and peppers, as well as flashes of basil, paprika and parsley).

Steak tacos are remarkably spicy (beef braise brings the zesty), the generous chunks of peppery beef reigning supreme over soft tortilla shells stuffed with their signature blend of shredded jack and cheddar cheese, chopped Romaine lettuce and gobs of sour cream.

Beef barbacoa is just as pleasing, delivering cumin-y meat that partners well with the tasty bacon-laced pinto beans (savory pods dissolve when you bite into them), the outstanding guacamole (populated by meaty chunks of real avocado, a spritz of lemon and the zing of ground jalapenos) or any combination of all three.

Need a quick change of pace? Order your favorite item but have them swap in the chili-lime vinaigrette salad dressing (a little smoky, mostly sour and plenty intriguing) for the traditional salsas (you won’t regret it).

All told, Petrilli suggested that their food would fetch triple the price at a white-tablecloth restaurant based on the strength of their ingredients alone.

Still, Petrilli said that Chipotle prefers to keep costs low so that everyone can enjoy a gourmet meal, even on the go.

“We do all of this ultimately … because we know this makes the food taste better,” he stated.

By Warren Rojas

You dictate which ingredients and how much of each item winds up in the ginormous tacos (hard or soft), burritos and salads at this funkified Mexican chain.