(May 2008)

By Warren Rojas

Bask in Hellenic splendor as you navigate Vaso’s crab-filled avocado halves ($8.95), a superlative seafood salad surrounded by lettuce, red onions, radishes, green peppers, black olives, herb-infused olive oil and zesty pepperoncinis. Then feast on Athenian chicken ($11.95), gloriously juicy fowl escorted by oniony peas and stout, herb-encrusted potato spears.

Best New Greek Homecoming

(March 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Nothing is more humbling to a food critic than being told to clean your plate by a watchful restaurant owner. Not that much goading is required to polish off the tasty morsels prepared at Vaso's Kitchen.

Owner Vasiliki "Vaso" Volioti often greets customers at the door-unless she's off chasing her cherubic granddaughter, Maria, through the homey restaurant. When she's not occupied with grandmotherly duties, Volioti splits her time between cooking, serving and chastising customers for neglecting their salads or the fresh vegetables of the day. The playful cajoling works both ways, as evidenced by one lunch patron who pops his head into the kitchen and affectionately shouts, "thanks, mom" before departing.

Although hidden deep in Del Ray, those who have stumbled in quickly find their way back for more home-style Mediterranean favorites.

Red peppers, tomatoes and feta are ground into a marvelously zesty hummus. The house gyro-which Volioti proudly proclaims "the best in the area"-is chock full of savory lamb, crumbled feta and diced tomatoes (top notch). The "Athenian" chicken brings an herb-rubbed bird that is juicy to the core (buttery chicken slides off the bone). A plate of baked moussaka summons a bulging square of seasoned beef, julienne potatoes and roasted eggplant covered with an inch-thick fluff of baked béchamel cream (outstanding).