NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Pressed for time? Need a quick, Tex-Mex fix? Then ground beef-filled tacos are just fine.

But if you crave a true taste of Mexico, you’ll need to stand in line at Arlington’s El Charrito Caminante just like everyone else.

This austere carryout is as plain as can be: a central counter, a grill perpetually crowded with homemade Mexican delicacies and a few stray stools for anyone who would rather eat than run. Most menu items cost less than $5—tacos are $2 each, burritos are $3, and traditional torta sandwiches are $4—and virtually everything is made-to-order.

The homemade tacos feature twin tortilla shells wrapped around a host of exotic fillings, including chorizo (crumbled Spanish sausage, mostly mild), carne de res (terrific, grilled steak), cabrito (slow-roasted goat meat comes densely packed, yet remains amazingly tender) and puerco (shredded swine can occasionally seem a little tough, but is typically still flavorful). A hefty beef burrito rolls thick strips of grilled flank steak together with beans, rice and the buffet of fresh vegetables—a homemade relish of diced green onions and ripe tomatoes—found in all the main dishes. The bulky Mexican torta is just as impressive, stuffing more grilled steak, savory pinto beans, cheese and the house relish into a bulging-at-the seams sub roll (magnifico).