(December 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8.4 Ambiance: 8.4 Service: 8.2

It took all of two years, but Okra’s owner Charles Gilliam can finally say Foundation is ready to stand on its own.

The fine-dining extension of Gilliam’s casual Cajun bistro, Foundation started strong under the direction of some ex-Commander’s Palace toques, but quickly sputtered last winter following changes in the kitchen. Enter chef Matthew Wood, another Big Easy transplant who has re-energized the cozy yet daring establishment.

Dinner guests are always greeted with a welcome bit of bubbly before being escorted into the wonderfully intimate dining room. Gabby gourmands can belly up to the marble chef’s bar, pole positioning for those who wish to chew the fat with Wood while he prepares his five-course tasting menu (changes weekly).

A batch of signature dishes exploring mostly international themes cycles through seasonally, while Creole favorites seem to remain evergreen.

Cakey homemade biscuits are the perfect foil for fantastically spicy andouille gravy. A hollowed out tomato adds acidity to a wondrous seafood salad of chilled crab in a mustard-lemon aioli (very refreshing). Shrimp- and crab-stuffed crepes are blanketed by a lemony beurre blanc finished with threads of fresh dill (flavorful sauce, filling plate). Well-seasoned lamb chops (good, but a bit too bony for the price) are propped up by a curiously minty salsa verde. Dinner sweets are typically good, but the brunch-only beignets take the deep-fried cake.