NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.0 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 6.9

“This is the only kabob place we go to … You’ve got such elegant decor and terrific prices,” I overheard a septuagenarian birthday girl inform staff after they surprised her with a candle-lit baklava.

That ballroom-like interior is something else.

Granted, the ersatz stage (now, clearly, a permanent fixture) could certainly use some sprucing up—draping even a decorative skirt over the rickety wood and exposed nails would class up the joint substantially. But Bamian still oozes charm when you consider that most of their competition relies mainly on plastic trays and static-y public address systems.

Meanwhile, the evolving beer list boasts several well-respected suds (Kingfisher, Grolsch, Bass, Southern Tier).

Yogurt-soaked lamb chops are resplendently tender—the meat flush with juice —and terrifically spiced.

Chickpeas, infused with tomatoes and onion, ladled over saffron-spiked basmati rice, become a fragrant banquet.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.6 Ambiance: 7.7 Service: 7.1

You know times are tough when once-complimentary gift baskets of oil-brushed naan—plucked straight from the tandoor and so fresh, they warm the palms—now come with a price tag (ouch!).

Et tu, Bamian?

The Afghan stronghold still brims with natives and ethnic dining loyalists, and with good reason. Staff are generous with their time and advice—cautiously guiding newcomers through the succinct but exotic menu, while challenging repeat guests to explore untested culinary paths.

Shaved eggplant, its flesh well seasoned before frying, arrives generously anointed in olive oil, pine nuts and exotic herbs (a powerful argument for anyone who doubts the unfettered pleasures of vegetarianism).

Ground lamb, savory lentils, wholesome chick peas and soothing yogurt live in herb-entrenched harmony (mint figures prominently) until disturbed by my invasive spoon (and torn quarters of soup-grabbing naan).

Scallion dumplings smothered in yogurt-mint sauce (yogurt is invigorating; mint casts a zesty shadow) provide an excellent canvas for an Afghan ragout populated by seasoned ground beef, simmered split peas and voluptuous tomato sauce.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.9 Ambiance: 8.1 Service: 7.2

“Why aren’t there more places like this around?” one companion inquires as we eat our way through Bamian’s brief but inviting menu.

Afghan-dining enthusiasts can attest that there certainly are other places in the area whipping up kebabs and yogurt-covered fare. Yet Bamian remains special because they stick to their culinary roots while also worrying about presenting said delicacies in a readily approachable manner.

The ballroom-like main dining room is light years removed from the meager takeout stands most people picture when they think of traditional kebabs. Hideaway booths (frosted glass partitions, mirror-polished hardwoods) and helpful servers help cement that image in the minds of frequent visitors, as does the quality of the cuisine.

Vegetarian turnovers (brimming with ground chickpeas and minced onions) pop after a plunge in mint-basil dipping sauce. Leafy spinach gets stir-fried into a deliciously pine-nutty mash. Meanwhile, grilled lamb (lightly seasoned, immodestly tender) trumps ground sirloin for juiciest kebab.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8.2 Ambiance: 8.5 Service: 7.3

With its palatial decor and unabashedly Afghan menu, Bamian may seem a bit intimidating to first-time visitors. But repeat guests—the dining room gets more and more crowded with each visit—can attest to the overwhelming hospitality that is the heart of this thriving community touchstone.

Unsure which exotic vegetable dish or grilled meat to sample? Check with any of the incredibly gracious servers, many of whom start off soft-spoken but cheerfully open up when discussing their favorite native dishes.

The exhilarating bouranee baunjaun summons a spicy eggplant mash offset by mint-spiked yogurt sauce, best devoured atop warm pitas. A gloriously understated portion of subzi chalau rolls leafy spinach and white rice around until grain and greens unite in stir-fried bliss. Chopan kabob delivers chargrilled lamb ribs that are sparsely seasoned yet roar with flavor, with or without a dunk in the potent homemade chutney (packs a citrusy sting). Simply sweet goshe feel reveals curly sheets of fried dough dusted with powdered sugar and crushed pistachios (no-nonsense confections even dieters can enjoy).

Keeping with the times, the restaurant offers about a dozen mixed whites and reds by the glass (all under $8), while bottled wines start at $22 for a youngish Delicato White Zinfandel and top out at $29 for a St. Francis Merlot. Devout Muslims can enjoy chilled doogh or hot tea.

Best New Afghani Charmer

By Warren Rojas

Cultural adaptation is one of the things that make covering the restaurant industry so very interesting. Hence the reason I'm so smitten with Bamian, a new addition to the Bailey's Crossroads corridor that takes Persian favorites like char-grilled kabobs and homemade yogurt dishes and adds white-tablecloth treatment.

An otherwise plain-Jane exterior betrays luxe touches like a fashionable antechamber adorned with plush chairs and a display of traditional Afghani jewelry. The upscale dining room boasts plenty of space and modern amenities (minichandeliers illuminate from all around, while a bank of semi-private booths provides insta-intimacy). Open tables are not hard to find, but solo diners or small parties may wish they could join the larger groups of Middle Eastern diners that frequently gather to commune, share plates and while away the evening.

The menu includes nearly a dozen kabob standards (beef, lamb, chicken, salmon), but its true strength lies in the more high-brow offerings. A plate of sambosay goshti yields crispy triangles filled with ground beef and herbs (reminiscent of Middle Eastern empanadas). The more polished mantu platter summons homemade dumplings smothered in yogurt, meat sauce and snippets of fresh mint. The bountiful chef carrayee produces the Afghani answer to stir-fry, delivering a stew of sautéed chicken, spinach, onions, peppers and tomatoes accompanied by a zesty herb sauce and a basket of warm flat bread. The more subtle but no less pleasing palau buries tender lamb cubes beneath a mountain of saffron rice crowned with a robust meat stew.