(March 2008)

By Warren Rojas

“I’d be living in here if I lived down here,” declared one of my Irish associates after a visit to Daniel O’Connell’s—an upscale pub and restaurant parked near the Old Town Alexandria waterfront.

Owner Mark Kirwan (from Tipperary) took over the old Bullfeather’s spot a few years ago and has raised in its stead a living tribute to salvaged properties—including a nearly 400-year-old, hand-carved mirror plucked from Waterford Castle in County Waterford, a lovingly resurrected pharmacy counter excised from County Carlow, and a church pulpit transplanted from County Cork—from all across Ireland.

“It’s not a Disney-Ireland pub,” he said, noting that he assembled a crack team of Irish carpenters and masons to piece together every bit of the multi-level establishment. “There’s a great deal of history in the whole place.”

Their attention to detail is well appreciated. The tiny area known as Brennan’s bar reeks of history, ranging from the faded snapshots of prominent Irish dignitaries to the long-ago charm of the semi-private “snugs” (hideaway cubbies tucked into the front corners of the bar). Kirwan’s bar features more antique fixtures and heavily lacquered woodwork but also boasts a contemporary, stone fireplace.

Kirwan said Old Town’s rich Irish history made it the logical choice for his first privately funded venture. “We really wanted to make this a stepping stone to those who might want to visit Ireland,” he said of the new restaurant, adding that he has returned home at least three times since opening in March 2006 just to recruit more front-of-the-house personnel.

“Part of our success story is that there are real Irish people, fresh off the boat, if you will,” he estimated.

Manager Trini Hughes may no longer be considered a “boat person” (she’s been stateside for nearly a decade), but she hasn’t lost a step since arriving from Tipperary. When a customer barks that he’ll have a Guinness for dessert, she fires back, “Priorities. I like that.”

The kitchen is headed by executive chef Colin Abernethy (a Culinary Institute of America grad), an able hand who turns out traditional Irish fare alongside several signature creations (rack of lamb, surf and turf, cedar-plank salmon).

The beer-battered bangers yield a jolly array of lightly fried, but still terrifically juicy, sausages that get even better when swabbed down with Lakeshore’s beer-based wholegrain mustard. A short ribs starter that’s big on flavor reveals a bone-in mass of Guinness-braised meat surrounded by mashed potatoes and root vegetables. A simple-sounding rashers sandwich summons an open-faced feast of grilled Irish ham (thick, chewy slices) and melted cheddar (mild sharpness with good overall flavor) bolstered by wholegrain mustard. Meanwhile, the ultra-savory Kirwan burger—“people absolutely adore that,” the namesake asserts —produces a hearty, ground lamb patty smothered with crumbled, Cashel blue cheese.

Traditional Irish quenchers include Guinness, Smithwick’s, Harp, Magners cider and a pair of locally-produced house beers (DO ale and lager courtesy of Ashburn’s Old Dominion Brewing Company), as well Boddingtons in cans. Whiskeys include Bushmills, Midleton, Powers, as well as scotches like Scapa, Isle of Jura, Glenkinchie, 12- and 15-year-old Glenfiddich, Oban, Laphroaig, Balvenie, Glenlivet, Speyburn, Glenmorangie, Deanston, Aberlour, Highland Park, Bruichladdich, Talisker, Dalmore and Famous Grouse.