220 N. Lee St.
Alexandria, VA 22314
CUISINE Modern American, Bar/Pub Grub, Sweets
PRICE $$ ($13-$20)
HOURS Open for lunch, dinner and late-night dining daily; Sunday brunch.
NVM AWARDS None
NEARBY METRO None
By Warren Rojas
Seasonal comforts and rock ‘n’ roll appear to be the driving force behind Overwood’s head-turning sweets catalog—a list that owes a tremendous debt of gratitude to the curious tastes of Memphis’s favorite son.
The core desserts include the likes of a reputable key lime pie, Godiva bread pudding and the now-obligatory fudge-brownie sundae. But the real stars draw their strength from the synergy of Southern roots and North-African ingenuity.
Executive chef/partner Boubker Errami (a Morrocan native) pointed to the wildly successful slice of Elvis pie—a spotlight hog built upon crushed Oreos, faux peanut-butter filling (more dense than traditional mousse and littered with fresh peanuts), thinly sliced bananas, whipped cream, drizzled chocolate, caramel and crème anglaise and shaved, Belgian dark chocolate—as their top seller, estimating that they probably move over two dozen whole pies per week.
“It’s the king,” he said of their peanut-butter sensation, adding that even way-out-of-towners—including one Seattle woman who recently placed a special order for a family birthday—have become wise to the show-stopping sweet. “It’s amazing.”
Just one bite left me—don’t hurl the magazine; you knew it was coming—all shook up.
The strata upon strata of chilled banana and mouth-filling peanut butter lit up the pleasure centers of my youth (so chewy, so gooey, so grand), while the competing streams of liquid decadence reassured my adult mind of the fun grown-ups can still have in the kitchen.
As I chipped away at the towering slice, one onlooker smiled, leaned over and commented, “death by chocolate, indeed.”
Not quite, buddy. But what a way to go.
The sweet-potato cheesecake is another homemade charmer, delivering North Carolina spuds (spiced center, ricotta-like creaminess) rolled into a ground-gingersnap crust, dusted with cinnamon and baptized in a Jack Daniel’s bourbon-honey blend (delicious). Though less glitzy than the Elvis creation, the moist filling and natural sweetness (loved the cinnamon and honey notes) made for good holiday eating without all the mall traffic and maxed-out credit cards.