NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.2 Ambiance: 6.6 Service: 6.5

Throughout my many trips to Minh’s, I’ve rarely had trouble convincing first-time guests to try something a little out of the ordinary.

Convincing repeat visitors to deviate from their favorite dishes, on the other hand, has proven next to impossible.

Other than a few cosmetic changes—streamlined menu (still boasts over 100 dishes, but some of the redundant items have been jettisoned), some modern fixtures here and there—very little has changed at Minh’s.

A crunchy rice crepe crackles when you pierce it, revealing a savory mass of roast pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and scallions (add a splash of chili-infused fish sauce for some bonus heat). Tangled shrimp and yam cakes delivered deep-fried sweetness. Stir-fried cubes of filet mignon rumble with peppers, tomatoes and onions, only to meet their match in a brilliant ground pepper-lime sauce.

The signature catfish spread summons seafood kebabs thick with turmeric (marigold glow, curried finish), with a palette of robust accompaniments (vermicelli, fresh basil, zesty shrimp paste) at the ready to fashion custom flavor combinations.

By Warren Rojas

Stuffed escargot ($9.25) summons broiled gastropods brimming with alluring snail-ginger-onion dumplings, steeped in a seafood broth and served with a sweet chili dipping sauce. The hands-on sizzling catfish platter ($13.95) deposits flavorful fish marinated in turmeric amidst vermicelli, peanuts, scallions, fresh basil and a chillified shrimp paste. Scoop the ingredients into the provided lettuce and enjoy.

By Warren Rojas

To the casual observer, the brightly colored pedicab resting quietly astride the entrance to Minh's may seem like just another piece of aesthetic fluff. But to the growing community of diners who frequent the popular noodle house, the immobile vehicle serves as a reminder that walking may not be an option if you indulge in one too many of the generous Vietnamese dishes prepared within.

Located on the bottom floor of an Arlington office building, the fledgling Minh's is nothing if not inviting. The main dining room is somewhat austere-a handful of chairs wobble, oil stains dot a few tablecloths-but exudes a great deal of character. Paper lanterns help keep the lighting low, while cheeky figurines and antique furniture convey a certain old-world charm. The energetic staff wait on you hand and foot, stopping by to ensure each order is to your liking and providing instruction for complicated specialty platters (particularly the ones with some assembly required).

And with over 100 different items to choose from, even a little guidance is often much appreciated. The gargantuan menu features about half a dozen starters, various combination soups, a dozen Vietnamese specialty plates and loads of individual pork, seafood, chicken, and beef entrées. Amazingly, most everything on the menu is well under $10-save for a few top tier offerings.

The shrimp cake appetizer is an interactive treat, pressing shredded yams and deep- fried prawns into a starchy mass (looks a lot like sloppy cheese fries). Patrons must rip apart chunks of the fried cake, wrap them in lettuce leaves with a number of other fresh greens-including fresh mint and basil-and then dunk the whole mass into a sweet-and-sour sauce. A plate of fried shrimp with grilled peppers and onions jumps from merely good to grand thanks to a powerful dipping sauce (ground black pepper, just a dash of oil). A rice noodle soup laden with shrimp, pork and crabmeat floods you with warmth, while a half-moon crepe stuffed with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts keeps things light and airy. Meanwhile, a signature sizzling catfish platter is another assembly-line delight. The twin catfish filets-presented on bamboo skewers and topped with fresh rosemary and grilled onion-serve as the base for a make-your-own mishmash which includes white rice vermicelli, slivers of onion, peanuts, sweet black bean sauce, and more garden-fresh herbs (very intriguing, flavorful combination).

For those who prefer to take their nightcap with a fork, the restaurant prepares a banana flambé that is quite literally swimming in rum (you can smell the booze from 10 feet away). The fiery fruits come with a crispy outer coating but stay mushy within, and are cooled down by twin scoops of vanilla ice cream.