NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.3 Ambiance: 7.6 Service: 7

It’s been 30 years since the Abi-Najm clan carved out their piece of the local hospitality pie with the original Lebanese Taverna. And the first family of falafel slinging shows no signs of letting up.

The Tysons locale, in particular, has evolved into the latest battleground in the battle of the sexes.

Gleeful baby showerers laid siege to the dining room (the gift table bedecked with shiny presents and bulging bags from Georgetown Cupcake) one afternoon. On another, the bar area was beset by jersey-wearing fans satiating their love of soccer and mezze. (“We SHOULD bring some home to Mom,” a bear of a man sheepishly informed his son after surveying the mound of picked-clean dishes before them.)

Chicken smacks of garlic, cinnamon and lemon—a welcome change from hot sauce-soaked preparations.

Grilled swordfish swims in a sea of yogurt-feta sauce, while seared tomatoes, mushrooms, squash and zucchini bring the best of the land.

Herb-infused lamb (gloriously damp meat) is deposited into a pine nut-laden nest of basmati rice, with cucumber-spiked tzatziki waiting in the wings.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 6.8 Ambiance: 6.8 Service: 6.2

With a half-dozen area restaurants now under their belt, it should be safe to crown the Abi-Najm clan as the heavyweight champs of modern mezze.

Although each Lebanese Taverna shop fosters a different look and feel than its siblings—the original Arlington location is all etched glass and historical snapshots, whereas Tysons II showcases faux stone walls and twinkling lanterns—the near-uniform menu allows longstanding Taverna devotees to feast on all their favorites no matter where they might go.

Spice-infused feta (bold cheese gets kicked up a few notches by mint, paprika and black pepper) lights a fire in your belly.

Seared lamb is accompanied by a mint-cilantro paste (warm meat, herby coolness work well together) and roast potato spears. Piles of shaved beef take comfort in the company of basmati rice, tahini and garlic puree.

By Warren Rojas

Mount a multi-sensory mezze tour via the herb-encrusted manakish bel zaatar ($7), a veggie flatbread studded with roasted sesame seeds, thyme, marjoram and onions, followed by the subtle charms of chicken shawarma ($7) dipped in homemade garlic sauce and concluded by kibbeh nayeh ($9), spiced lamb mixed with crushed wheat and accompanied by yogurt sauce and bright pink pomegranate seeds.