NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Modeled after Europe’s breezy cafes, Fontaine provides sanctuary for those who favor lighter meals and curious libations.

Chef/owner Kyong Yi whips up nearly a dozen buckwheat-wrapped creations, ranging from the ordinary (steak and potatoes) to the operatic (caramelized apples, Calvados, frothy vanilla ice cream).

The Berliner delivers rounds of robust bratwurst (ghost white but plenty filling) tossed with tomatoes and onions, all buried beneath curried steak fries (doesn’t get much heartier). Blocks of potent feta and mint-spiked yogurt goose the sauteed spinach- and lentil-stuffed Moroccan (well done).

Sweets run the gamut. But sweet peaches draped in vanilla and topped with sliced almonds (inject a bit of crunch into an otherwise squishy adventure) have yet to disappoint.

Though wines and import beers abound, French ciders best complement the cuisine (pear pours skew sour, while apple sparklers can get a little musty).

Meanwhile, Yi has recently beefed up her non-crepe options by adding steak and frites and roasted chicken to the regular lineup.

By Warren Rojas

Enjoy some very adult crepes via a hearty Tuscan ($9.95), stuffed with crumbled sausage, pert cannellini beans and sauteed vegetables, or noble Alexandrian ($7.95), uniting salty ham, melted Swiss and sauteed mushrooms. Then, plunge headlong back into childhood with the Bella ($5.95), a sugar-dusted beauty concealing a devil-may-care purse of peanut butter and Nutella (so chocolaty).