(June/July 2008)

By Warren Rojas

After 30 years and countless accolades, what’s left to say about this temple of epicurean wanderlust?

Plenty.

A perfectionist with a short memory, chef/proprietor Patrick O’Connell continues to challenge guests with menus displaying a penchant for seasonal, gourmet cuisine executed with plenty of whimsy.

Likewise, staff continues to provide the personal touches that keep patrons coming back, year after year.

As one guest wondered aloud whether to have another glass, sommelier Meredith Bearov playfully nudged, “Go ahead. You’re at the Inn.” When another seemed saddened by the prospect of actually finishing the meal, a server teased, “It doesn’t have to end. We’ll bring out more food.”

By all means, bring it.

A nibble of prosciutto-wrapped pear performs a salty-sugary pas de deux. A minimalist masterpiece of homemade lasagna ties together fresh asparagus, shaved ham, woodsy morels and creamy bechamel beneath ribbons of pasta. Pecan-crusted rabbit (so deliciously tender) runs wild across an island of pureed peas.

Desserts absolutely dazzle, from a minty dream of fudge-streaked ice cream parked atop a dark-chocolate coin to a citrus trifecta of lemon custard, lemon meringue and raspberry coulis (marvelous).

According to O’Connell, the Inn remains the “best bargain in America.” Towards the end of one visit, a neighboring couple that had apparently been hanging on our waiter’s every word confessed, “We enjoyed your tasting menu, too.”

Talk about an unbeatable value.