NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Try as you might, it's tough to catch an unobstructed view of the mighty Potomac from The Wharf's cozy little outdoor patio. But just a few bites of their daily seafood specials are often all that is required to flood the mind with deep appreciation for the ocean's generous bounty.

A now familiar fixture of the Old Town Alexandria dining scene, the longstanding seafood restaurant attempts to lure in passers-by with rotating chalkboard specials-featuring everything from dill-parmesan salmon fettuccine to crab Imperial-stuffed mahi mahi-posted prominently beside the rickety front door.

Apart from the auxiliary lunch and dinner specials, the kitchen typically offers over a half dozen fresh fish (delivered daily) on the regular menu, along with assorted seafood soups, starters and sandwiches.

The signature barbecue salmon plate is perfect for a Southern picnic, balancing a spice-dusted filet atop a mountain of creamy potato salad embedded in sauteed spinach. A portion of cornbread crusted haddock surrounded by a stellar Eastern Shore crab succotash makes your head swim; the broiled fish sports a delectable cornbread crust with some definite body (surprisingly spicy) while the succotash (lima beans, corn, peppers and crab in a dreamy cream sauce) proves divine.

Elsewhere, a bowl of Portuguese-style mussels conjures over a dozen meaty bivalves swimming in a sanguine brew of diced tomatoes, onions and spicy sausage (delicious). Or cool down with an ice-chilled mound of jumbo lump crab, lettuce and capers covered in a tongue-teasing mustard blend.

During one visit, the bartender asked a regular if they'd be back around the next day. "As long as those oysters stay as good as they are, I'll be back," he assured the grinning server. We concur.

New England Clam Chowder – Honorable Mention

By Warren Rojas

Though the stock is sometimes thin (almost runny) and the clams occasionally scarce, the Wharf wins for best supporting cast. Their chowder is packed with chunky cubes of Red Bliss potatoes and plenty of salty bacon, and features a strong, herby flavor.