NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Though other local media outlets have taken to pitting the burgeoning crop of would-be cupcake kings against one another in a tastetacular battle royal, we prefer a kindlier, gentler approach to baked goods appreciation.

Perhaps that’s why we’re suckers for D.C. attorney-turned-self-styled baker Warren Brown’s brand of from-scratch feasting, CakeLove.

Brown opened his first CakeLove on the now-booming U Street corridor in early 2002, and has since broadened his reach with incursions into Virginia (including a pedestrian-friendly refuge in the recent Shirlington expansion and a grab-and-go stand within Tysons Corner Center) and Maryland (including his latest shop in National Harbor).

Though he’s drawn some fire from critics of the exactitude of his serving requirements—CakeLove vociferously urges all its customers to bring all their homemade creations to room temperature (approximately 72 F) before enjoying—Brown seems totally unfazed by all the haters, working instead to keep his devoted fans in the custom flavors they’ve come to know and love.

One loyalty-builder includes the standing free-cupcake-on-your-birthday offer (just show your ID and stroll out with a freebie). Another is Shirlington’s fabulous “chocolate happy hour” promotion, a weekly deal whereupon customers can take 20 percent off any chocolate purchase each Tuesday.

Of course, there’s more to this local legend than discount chocolate.

Raspberry-on-vanilla cupcakes are a tangy-fresh treat, revealing pinkish frosting that walks the line between velvety butter and whipped yogurt (fantastic fruit flavor).

Peanut-butter cupcakes taste of ground nuts and scrumptious butter cream (the perfect little pick-me-up). Ganache-covered, yellow sponge cake comes off like a milk-chocolate mushroom (an insta-classic).

Elsewhere, a slice of toffee-crunch cake summons moist chocolate cake layered with butter-cream frosting, caramel sauce and toffee crunchies (groovy). And a dreamy peanut-butter cheesecake gets a boost from a its chocolate ganache shell (some female companions almost lost consciousness from this one).