NVM Review

By Warren Rojas

Food: 7.5 Ambiance: 7.1 Service: 6.9

I respect the community ties La Strada chef/owner Stephen Scott has worked so hard to forge with his Del Ray neighbors.

But I’m pretty sure we could all do without the community theater sprung upon the establishment’s unsuspecting diners when a manager decided to dress down an exasperated crew member mid-dinner rush (next time, do the disciplining out of earshot, please).

When not embroiled in family-style spats, staff tends to fare just fine.

One server wisely offered a gratis sweet to smooth over a bumpy outing (much obliged). Another offered well-informed suggestions to guests looking to break free from a Chianti rut.

Rustic Italian bread provides the perfect canvas for a masterpiece of poached eggs and tomato-mushroom ragout, the spilled yolks and wine-braised ‘shrooms baptizing everything in heavenly flavors.

Forthright bacon and cracked black pepper do their best to sway juicy pork their way, but the swine still smacks of hazelnuts courtesy of a concentrated amaretto sauce (broccoli rabe adds some bitter to the complex, comfort food trio).

Cannolis stuffed with mixed berries sing of summer.

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 7.4 Service: 7.1

The space is so small and the business so new, that the waiter thrusts out his hand and offers a booming, “So nice to see you again,” the minute I walk through the front door.

Truth is, I’m just as happy to be back at La Strada—an encore performance for chef/owner Stephen Scott in the neighborhood Italian category (Argia’s was his most recent community dining venture) that’s taken root amongst a revitalized Del Ray.

The quaint establishment boasts a patio and just over a dozen cozy tables sprinkled about the main dining room.

Daily specials often include intimate touches like garden-fresh tomatoes (grown out back) and homemade mozzarella.

An all-encompassing fritto misto turns up deep-fried squid, octopus and even lemons, all liberally sea salted (adds both crunch and zip). Crusty, cubed bread serves as the high-fiber foundation of a salad replete with seared scallops, vinegar-soaked peppers (hot and sweet), red onions, diced tomatoes and capers. Saltimbocca yields veal cutlets wrapped in baked prosciutto, all submerged in puddles of sage, butter and white wine (bellissimo!).