3165 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington, VA 22201
CUISINE Southern, Modern American, International
PRICE $$$ ($21-$30)
HOURS Open for dinner and late-night dining, Tuesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday.
NVM AWARDS Best Restaurant 2009
Best Restaurant 2010
Best Restaurant 2011
NEARBY METRO Orange(Clarendon)
SPECIAL FEATURESLate Night Dinner
By Warren Rojas
Seasons, schmeasons. Chef Miles Vaden would be wise to make his uber-comforting chicken and dumplings a year-round repast. Shredded chicken, buttermilk dumplings (melt-in-your-mouths orbs of gravy-laden dough) and smoked cherry tomatoes (superb) swim in a dreamy sage-and-brown butter broth. Spice junkies are given their due in a corned pork belly and potato hash bolstered by diced poblanos and Tabasco-spiked hollandaise.(November 2010)
By Warren Rojas
Food: 8.1 Ambiance: 8.2 Service: 7.7
Eventide’s happy hour following has thinned substantially (the jury’s still out on whether they’ve merely relocated to the rooftop deck or migrated to Spider Kelly’s next door).
But the almost-always booked, velvet-lined main sanctum—multiple pop-in attempts were thwarted by capacity crowds—would suggest serious diners know the goods when they taste them.
“As soon as I ring in your order, chef will fire up some fresh biscuits,” a sprightly server assures us as we relinquish our menus.
Sure enough, we’re soon rewarded with warm, salted buttermilk rounds that put cold baguette-slinging operations to shame.
Not that executive chef Miles Vaden gets absolutely everything right.
Bland pea and mint fritters drew blank stares from befuddled dining companions.
Squiggly gnocchi absorb a masterful lobster butter-roasted corn medley like greedy little sponges.
Sharp mustard and soothing onion marmalade play tug of war with a more-than-willing pork chop.(November 2009)
By Warren Rojas
Food: 8.7 Ambiance: 8.4 Service: 8.3
“We look down on them,” a barkeep sarcastically quipped as I eyed the Clarendon Ballroom from Eventide’s panoramic rooftop bar.
The (no doubt) well-rehearsed jibe would have come off as terribly immodest, were it not for the fact that: a) management has worked diligently to foster a “come-as-you-are” presence (down to the rolled-up sleeves and exposed tats favored by their service corps), and b) chef Miles Vaden’s visionary cuisine SHOULD make other local restaurateurs nervous.
The up-and-coming toque juggles three distinct seating areas and four custom-tailored menus—gourmet snacks downstairs, seasonal manifestations showcased on the main floor, chilled specialty dishes on the roof and Southern comforts with modern tweaks reserved for brunch—with gusto and poise.
Bulging cannelloni arrives wedged into a tiny crock, the close quarters providing the perfect metaphor for all the magnificent flavors (herb-laced rabbit, sublime parmesan sauce) layered within.
Roasted chicken enmeshed with aji chili aioli, currants, pine nuts and red onions yields a textural feast of pertinent spice.
Smoked tomatoes and charred squid blast a mock bouillabaisse into the stratosphere, leaving steamed mussels and pan-seared cobia in their delicious wake.